Ok, that makes sense. That also tells me to put the 1x4's vertically. They can mount to the 2x6's at 5' up and I'll put a 2x4 on the lower end the long way ( horizontal at the bottom). This way there's at least a couple of 2 by X's making a little beefier wall.
The original series KT engines were notorious for throwing rods. Happened a lot on hills, with inadequate oil delivery. The series II was designed to fix that issue.
The bottom 2x4 can be lagged to the deck for strength too...the 2 x 6 that you put 5' up could have a 2x4 screwed (the tall way) to the side of the 2x6 to make a T beam like you did on the purlins...that would make it real strong.
Yep. That's why the original series 1 blew up the first summer ( 84) when it was new, and Kohler or ariens ( both are a hop and skip away from here) sent 2 guys that summer and put in the series 2 under warranty.
Yeah, I thought about that. It probably will be done that way. Definitely on the backs with the 10 foot span.
If you have some old fence laying around it could be stapled to the walls to stop splits from falling thru the gaps. I hate re-doing things.
I was able to add a 2x6 to the back of the center bay v about 4' up and also made a wall for the left center bay. It's mostly 2x 8 and 2x6's so it's beefy. I did put the rest of the sugar maple and also made the last upper corner brace for the center Bay. I can now load the center bay full of wood. So that's what I'll be doing as well as bringing this year's wood up to the patio.
Working on filling it up. I can only do so much during the week, and today I noticed that I needed to add oil to the hydraulic system today. So that took some time. I happened to have a jug of 5w-30 left over from the last top off. I'll need to fix the oil leak. It's by the hydraulic control I thought it was an o ring on the hoses, but that doesn't look too be the culprit. Well, with that done, I could resume hauling and stacking. I almost have the first row done. I'll get a better picture tomorrow. This one I had to brighten up a lot, and it didn't take as crisp of a picture because of the darkness that was there. We're to have 40 mph gusts of wind tonight. It's been very windy the last number of days with 35 mph winds. So this shouldn't be any thing new. I have the right side of the stack all the way to the roof. I won't do that at the front, but I'll go as high as I can.
Following your build with interest. Great job. You need some lighting. I have a cheap motion solar light for one of my sheds and it's worked for years with solar collector outside and light inside out of elements. BUT it's annoying when it keeps going off. SO, This is what I do and it's fairly inexpensive. I have an outdoor outlet partway to woodshed. I plug in the outdoor remote control plug there. Then I run an extension cord around the perimeter of the yard to the shed. I have 3 - 4' leds screwed into shed ceiling. In the winter I have the remote inside. Point it to the outside outlet press on button and all lights come on. Super simple. This is my third year using this and it works great. Batteries in remote still have not been changes. The company makes 2 different sets. White plastic for interior and black for outdoor. Got mine in Home Depot. When turned on in winter the leds light most of the yard. Very handy.
I liked that idea mikeward . It's possible that I could run a line down to the shed. I might even have the proper wire up north at the cabin. Until then, I'll try a couple solar LEDs. Something is better than nothing. Last night I loaded a little more info the shed and I grabbed the 18v Ryobi led flashlight. I want and to finish the load I was working on before daylight went away. I wanted to get the wood into the shed before it rained, otherwise I might have just let it stay out in the yard. Today I worked on the wood stack some more. 1 row packed to the top, second row about half way, 55" tall. Then dinner was ready and I was done for the day. I have the remnants of a 1.25 cord stack of ash that needs to go in this shed bay. This whole center bay will be for next winter, 2021/22. I've got a bunch of box elder, dead elm, ash, and other quick or partially dried wood at the wood lot. I'm going to need to get the splitter over here to split up the remaining honey locust, ash, and fir I have here at the house. Then I can load at least the ash and fir into the left bay for 2022/23. The locust I'll split up and put in the right bay for 2022/23 once that bay is all set. Here's what I have left to split and stack. There's also some small logs that need to be cut to 16-18" too. Most of this I couldn't get at or to until the splits were moved out of the way. I had splits in with rounds. It was kind of a mess. That area can now be a staging area for rounds, and then split there and moved to the opposite side of the yard into the shed. I'll need to work on scrounging more now that I'm almost out of wood that needs to be processed here.
I know, it really looks great. I just have to get the left bay outer wall done so I can get a row or 6 in there too. I could actually fill the right bay too, but because we'll need to take the roof off of that bay, then fix the purlins, and that will be easier without wood in that bay. But, I could put 1 or 2 rows up and that won't affect what we need to do at the top. Thanks for talking me into that. I know that is my goal, to have a wall o'wood as a fence. My wife is looking forward to having all 3 bays as a wood wall too.
I just went though this thread in one sitting. Looks great and I learned some stuff reading through the thread. I really need to get some permanent wood storage sheds up here.
I learned quite a bit myself. Having permanent wood storage is key. I was so sick of dealing with tarps. This will be a task to get all bays filled this winter, but even if I get two bays filled I'll be way better ahead than I was. Everyone thought I had so much wood on my land all cut and stacked. What I have on site will fill one bay. Well what isn't earmarked for this year's use at least.
That is what I need right there. The only difference is that I'll need to build mine on skids due to the proximity to the street. Our town will not allow for a permanent structure that close to the road. The size I plan to build mine is 10' in length, 8' wide, and 8' in height. According to the calculator that will give me 5 cords.
Yes, it will. Each of my bays is 10' long by 8' depth and I'll stack 8' tall. It's 10+ feet tall at the front.
I appreciate all the advice you've all given, that's for sure Getting Shingles certainly didn't help anything though. That delayed my progress but a couple of weeks. That's what I love about FHC though, it's great motivation. I got all of my Menards rebates now, so I think I'll get the pine 1x4's for the outside ends. Running them vertically.
I ended up having almost enough 2x4's 2x6's and 2x10's to make the outside walls beefier than the 1" I was going to use. I'll wait until lumber prices go down to buy the couple that I need though for the right wall. More progress filling the shed, and I got a solar led motion sensor light to see how it would work. I think I'll get more of those same lights. Getting there.. All I've got left not in the shed and not stacked on my home property, are a few shorts that will be burned next year, and quite a few splits that's are too long. That's what that pile is in the left bay at the front, but I've got a pretty decent sized pile at the other end of the property that need to be cut down to 17-18". Time to make a jig like I've seen on FHC so I can easily cut down many at a time.
