That's a good setup and what we try and do when installing. Works great, especially during sweep season!
I'm thinking so too. Before I sealed off my clean out on the shop stove, my draft was goofy, and had creosote build up like mad. No problems now. I have seen alot of caps installed poorly. One customer had about a gallon of plumbers putty as a gasket. seems that wasn't the way to go. I have a neighbor down the road who owns two woodstocks. When he saw my AS sitting on the porch he stopped on by. Told me "those are great stoves, but throw out that dumb honey comb grate. You can burn anything then". Ive only looked at one NC30 that was set up, and dialed in. I REALLY liked it for the price.
Thanks for all the replies, awesome info. Been out cutting trails on the farm while it's cool at 85°. Single story house stove on the main floor not in the basement. House built in 1983 I doubt it's really tight. House also sits low with hills 360 and creek right next to me. I did not see the guy on the roof cleaning the chimney, maybe maybe not, but I watched the guy get in the cleanout. I do crack the entry door when starting the stove in the morning. Does it help I'm not sure but do it anyway thought about OAK? I thought about it being last years creosote but sure looks new and all of it had to come from the chimney. Was always dry looking not wet like this. There has to be a cap on the tee because it holds dry creosote. I clean it out and can feel the bottom, is it 100% sealed??? Yes, it's open from the tee to the cleanout. I thought about stuffing insulation in there but glad I didn't now. He had a hard time getting the pipe down the chimney without insulation. How in the world would you put it in with insulation? From what well seasoned says I will be spending a bunch more money, wow. The owner of the stove shop told me they will make it right but it was done by a subcontractor. I guarantee you the sub will not want to pull the liner out. He already told me on the phone that the creosote in the cleanout sounds normal, really.
Ahh, no. Many of the guys running 30s clean chimney once per year and get a cup or two of pretty much just soot/flyash. If it was that tight to get the liner down w/o insulation, then the only way to insulate would be to break the clay liner out
Well logrunner if the subcontractor is the one that said that sounds normal, well then you can take that with a grain of salt. They won't likely admit that they messed up the install. Just look at the thread.. Is my stove pipe installer a bonehead? Contractors can and will cut corners if they figure they can get away with it. Not all of them thankfully. If you have good clean dry/powdery ash up the insert, then your stove does not seem to be the problem, it lies elsewhere. Hope you can get it sorted before heating season.
Wow, what a liability, the stove shop shouldn't be subcontracting this type of work out! At least one person doing the job should be CSIA certified.
It looks like there is an 8" thimble, not sure what size clay lined chimney it is. Likely a 7x7. The least the company should do is rip out the old liner, break the tile and add an insulated ss liner. Or, if there is room, pour thermix down like described above.
I always thought it was 8x8 never measured. Who would do the thermix? I'm 66 and could I do it yes but don't want to.
Yea 8x8- the stove shop should do it. It typically gets watered down until its a pudding consistency then poured down. Alot of places starting to get away from this method, its certainly cheaper and lugging it up a ladder ain't fun.
Should be fine. As long as the liner fits inside the clay I see no problem. Pour in loose insulation to fill the gaps...
The only caution here would be from something I read written by a certified chimney pro...the thing about pour in insulation is that it is very difficult, if not impossible to verify that the liner is centered in the flue...which is not problem if you can verify that the flue itself has the required 1" or 2" (can't remember which) CTC (clearance to combustibles) but as I understand it, that is seldom possible to do without a bunch of extra work...and even then, surprisingly, the majority of chimneys don't have the proper CTC...so that means you have to make sure the liner itself has the clearance it needs...which means it needs to be centered, in a larger flue. Probably getting nit-picky...but CTC specs are code...if you care about such things. , You can maybe get by with cutting corners on a chimney for fossil fueled appliances easier than wood fired IMO...I have probably overkilled my chimney liners, but I sleep better at night and don't worry when my family is home and I'm not. Well Seasoned feel free to jump in here if I have any of this wrong.
This is exactly why I seek the opinions of the members of this site. You are all so helpful and I know I'm getting good info. I figure everything worth doing is worth over-doing
You are correct. If the liner was stretched a bit and there aren't any offsets in the chimney, likely it should be centered. A light and a mirror in the clean out door area can see some ways up, maybe.
So after waiting a month I already knew what he was going to say. First, they did not bring a ladder and had to use mine. We must have knocked down the creosote when installing the liner. I said you did not clean the chimney before installing the liner? No, we don't unless it's really built up. I said how about knocking the clay tile out so there is room for insulation? He laughed and said if you knock the clay tile out your chimney will fall in. Now to the inside, he said the orange color is RUST. I said how in the hell can stainless steel rust? He said it can. Absolute waste of my time but I knew he was not going to do anything. I have called two different CSIA business but no one answers.
