I have lived in my current home for two years. We have acreage outside city limits in the woods. My wife and I were not thrilled with the baseboard heating in the house as the only heat $ource. Last year I had a stove and chimney installed. I had to have a "professional" install the stove and chimney to insure the house. Fast forward to today and I am removing insulation bats from the attic to completely redo my attic with blown in insulation. I pulled a bat out and looked down between two rafters. The installer cut a roof rafter to put the stove pipe in and did not support it with anything. This prompted me to open the covers that are on the ceiling around the stove pipe. ( See Pictures) I am not a structural engineer, however this does not look right. Furthermore I asked him after he installed if he had to cut through anything structual, he said "no." As the thread title states... Is my stove pipe installer a bonehead?
WTF.... Didn't cut through anything structural my azz. Your insurance company did not check the installation obviously. They'd have likely been better suited if you did it yourself. (I don't know your skill level) But yeah, he lied if he said that he didn't cut/damage any structural components.
I do not know what my next move is. I made this post looking for some advice. I would like my roof to be structurally sound but I do not want this crook near my house again. Can somebody here articulate how this should have been done? And moving forward what can I do to remediate this?
That was a major bit of laziness on his part. Send him these pictures, and let the butt monkey know you will find out whom to share them with. Joist cords are very relevant in today's engineered trusses. Flex is bad, bad. Don't know how many delta rib roofs I have worked on due to this stuff. Fasteners do not magically come out. I'm glad you looked into it though. Good time of year to discover the jackassery
Best case scenario would be to take a copy of the plans if any exist to a truss company. Don't go to an engineer. (Too much money). They can punch a fix into your local code requirements. This may be necessary if you live in a leftit controlled area. Failing that look and see if there is a yellow tag on a heel of a truss. Usually you can take one of those to a truss manufacturer also. If your roof is stick framed rafters, and the gov isn't in bed with insurance companies, or unions then Google collar ties. Typically insurance inspectors will allow you to sister/your cords together with a proper fastener layout. You'll get it figured
I have no code requirements where I live. I live outside of city limits in Appalachia, on 14 acres a quarter mile off the road. Code or no code my roof is jacked up. Ill get with someone who is competent and figure out a fix here soon. I appreciate your help Camber.
I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure you have to sister the beams closest to it and box the chimney in and tie that into the sistered beams. I really can't tell from photos. I suck at that
Sister as long a beam on both adjacent rafters as you can, double header above and below the pipe, tying the the cut rafter back into the headers.... Where’s ironpony?
It's fixable no problem. Gets the blood boiling, but in the end at least it won't be expensive. I like to box them out with a hinged gate, when blowing in cellulose. I'm pulling for ya.
High snow load areas, I use LVL. SometimesI have preloaded LVL, from heel to heel. I don't mess around with lake snow
This! ^ ^ ^ And I'd add "bonehead extraordinaire"! If he has any advertising online, or anywhere you can give him a review, I'd rip 'im...oh, negative BBB report too, if ya can...
I’d call it criminal and consider a lawyer or having your insurance agent come inspect it and maybe they’ll get involved. I’m sure they have a whole team of lawyers. That guy needs to be put out of business.
You need to seek a lawyer because I was building, QA inspector for the US Government and your "professional" installer needs his license "REVOKED"! I am an engineer and this is completely negligent!!! It can be fixed. There needs to be a support carrier between rafters to hold/support the cut rafter.
My next thought here is "Why" didn't he shift it between the rafters? There is 16" on center and you may have 24" on center depending on the construction code. They do make fire boxes to fit between the rafters. Show him my words and then tell him he's an @$$HOLE!!! for me! The above diagram is what is correct for safety. Dave
Thanks WeldrDave, I came to my computer to pull diagrams but you got it done! Yes his license should be Revoked for stupidity!
Exactly so sir. So many products on the market of 16 or 24 oc. The guy is a lazy bum. I hired a semi local installer to put a princess in for a customer. This place is famous in western montana. They butchered every single step of the installation. It's crazy now a days.
YES! Bonehead Lazy Hack Incompetent Unprofessional Unethical Unqualified ... And yes you need to document everything, have it fixed by a professional and make him pay for it!