So I'm currently exploring more options for my business. I started out selling firewood, and have recently started to sell more decorative wood. I've sold quite a few walnut wood cookies over Facebook. But I want to get into selling some live edge slabs. It would be something I use occasionally. If I need to cut a large log or a lot of them, I have a friend with a sawmill who's offered to help me. My ideal log size would probably be 15 inches and under. My saw is an echo 600p with a 24 inch bar. My budget is $600 or less. Is there anything else i would need? Are ripping chains necessary? I hand sharpen my chains but I'm an amateur. Thanks.
Granberg Alaskan Mill Ripping Chains will help. You could do your own , the top plate angle is right around 10 degrees for a ripping chain verses around 30 for a standard chain. I have the Granberg with their rail system and it works but slow and hard work , also rough on the saw. I bought this setup and only used it a couple times then went to a band saw mill. Like night and day as far as ease of use , however I won't get rid of the Granberg Mill. Still will have it's place for some on site milling of some larger logs that are too big to move or won't fit on my mill.
I'm in the club of an external clutch for millin. Keeps some of the heat out of the case, away from the seals yadda yadda. 394/5's make great mill saws. They oil like the Exxon Valdez. And I'm not trying to start a debate, but dedicated milling chain is not needed. I have yet to use it and I've milled a good many BF with normal chains, filed at slightly different angles. This was one of my first endeavors into the CSM. Can of whoop ash and a mill = This was my latest. Black gum, cherry and poplar
Thanks. Is a guide something you guys use? I've seen someone use just a 2 by 8 and set it on top of the log.
I have the rails , yes I have seen other methods as well. Wood like you have mentioned and also seen where they used an aluminum extension ladder. The rails are only used on the initial . I bought the rails to try to make life easier and they allow you to set it up without any other fasteners needed. I am far from an expert on this so others probably can give you better information.
Thanks. Im going to watch a tutorial that Granberg international put together on YouTube to get a better sense of chainsaw milling
For what you have, and want to do, my recommendation is a Granberg G778-24 mill, and a set of EZ-Rails, get some full skip chain. A G555-B edging mill, would be an excellent companion tool. I agree, that you can get very good results with full skip, and that milling chain is nice, but not necessary. A 24” mill, will give you approximately 21.5” between the inside faces of the bar clamps. Be Careful about clamping the nose end too close to the nose sprocket, you don’t want to damage the sprocket or bearings A 24” bar won’t max out your mill, but should mill what you are expecting to mill. You can remove the Dawgs and gain a little more capacity If a 28” bar and a couple full skip chains fit the budget either now, or later, that should come close to maxing out your mill Good Luck, Enjoy and Stay SAFE Doug
Here is my Granberg 24” Alaskan Saw mill on my 661 with 28” bar, I use a 24” on smaller logs. I milled this Ponderosa Pine with a full chisel chain & didn’t have any problems. I have 2 of the GB milling chains that I used on some Mulberry & Cherry but I agree with The Wood Wolverine you don’t need the milling chains & the Vacuum Cleaner/Sewing Machine company saws are better suited for milling. Northern Tool is where I bought my mill/rail system, although a nice straight aluminum ladder will work for the rail system. According to pricing in the NT catalog you can be into a 24”GB mill & 10’ rail system for around $400
I use primary a length of 2x6 or x8 for first cuts, and the old ladder for beastie chunks. I’m not terribly concerned with precision because I figure my planer, jointer and table saw will true everything after drying has occurred. As seen in pics, I use a Granberg mkiii (I believe). The newer version is better with the billet pieces. I did end up breaking one of mine but Granberg replaced as a defective part. They were great to deal with. CSMing is hard work. Searching around here will net some good tips. It’s best to elevate one end of your log to help push the mill through. And one of the best tips I found was using a leaf blower strategically placed to direct fumes away from you.
I got the mill and rails ordered today. I've been a little hesitant but I think it will open up my options with what I can do with my logs and it will be a lot of fun. Thanks for the tips guys.
Nice ; keep us posted on how you make out with it. I have a couple " Big " logs that I need to get to that are too big for the mill and too heavy for my machine to move. Going to rough them out with the chain-saw mill and then finish them off on the sawmill. All I need to do is find the time ; work has been too busy to get to them. Cooler weather coming up will also be a big plus.
First cuts on some oak with my mill. Not perfectly flat but good enough for my first cuts. I can see why you'd want a leather saw for milling. It was definitely hard on my saw. I think my oiler might have gotten plugged up. If I can sell enough boards I'd buy another saw for it but not sure what I'd get. This was a chunk of red oak I found down at the city tree dump.
As far as what I would get, it was and would be again, a Husqvarna 3120XP, it is the best bang for the buck in milling. On the Arboristsite forum, “thechainsawguy” has them for $1499 Shipped, PHO. I bought mine from Dave, as have other AS members, Dave is a Reputable and Reliable seller, and the 3120XP is an Excellent saw, that is well suited to milling Doug
Nice , Yes it is rough on equipment ( and the operator ) for sure. I didn't go back through this entire thread to see if anyone had mentioned to turn your oiler up to max ( if you have that option ) and run your mix a little heavy on the oil. I personally run 40:1 but believe others might actually run even more oil. Have fun with it.
Afford if or not, after more than 40 years of running saws, I have no idea what a “Leather Saw” refers to in chainsaws either My guess is it was a typo/spelling auto (IN)correct that should have been BETTER saw. Enquiring minds want to know Doug
