Wood Boiler / Storage Shelter Ideas? Tips? before I build.

I bought a new Wood Boiler and want to build a Barn/Shelter to cover the boiler and the wood for the season.

Question 1. What is a good size to fit the entire boiler ? boiler is 6 ft deep by 5 ft wide.
2. Should I make a 2 ft walk the boiler
3. Is a stone floor ok? The boiler will be on Concrete
4. Should I allow air to move thru the building? Meaning horizontal siding with gaps?
5. How big of a building to store 15 cord plus boiler?
6. Is there anything else I should think about before building?

The wood inside will be the season wood ready to burn. Every year I will re-stock in Spring for the next season.



Thanks

Brandon

 

I posted this on another thread and still think it's a pretty good idea for a shed and storage system. A lot less handling of the wood.

 

I actually have seen this video. I don't have the room to build a long enough roof. I do have about 30 to 35 ft but I will not be able to get the tractor in to push the material. I am really thinking of having it all under cover 16 x 30 maybe. The boiler will be in one side. Toward end of season I will have a 20 ft walk to boiler. I could fill a wheel barrel and wheel it to boiler. What about the sides? Removable panels? for re-stock in spring?

 

My boiler is not covered. It sets next to my little chainsaw shop that has a 8 foot overhang and a raised wood floor. I keep wood ( a cord max ) stacked under the over hang starting in the fall. I have a 2 car carport that I use as a wood shed. It is a little ways away in my pasture, so I bring wood up to the boiler from time to time with my little tractor. I don't think I would want all of my wood to be stored next to the boiler..... critters like to hang out around drying wood piles. Think mice, snakes and wasp.... Everyone feels differently about having all the wood near the boiler and I would assume that climate has a lot to do with that. We don't get so much snow that I can't get out to the pasture with the tractor.... farther north that is a very different story.

 

Awesome great information . Since I need help getting a jump start on wood I am ordering a bunch. My first box depth is 38inch. What length should I get the wood cut and split at?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

I bought a classic edge 750

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

CLASSIC EDGE | Central Boiler

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

Wood size will depend on a lot of factors. I have 16 inch wood, 20 inch wood and 24 inch wood (max splitter size) I use all those sizes. In the coldest times of the year with a good coal bed I use the largest pieces at night with smaller splits to fill in the empty spaces. If I am burning rounds then the smaller splits fill in nicely. If thi i your first season I would advise you to keep a variety of size on hand.... after your first season you will know what work bet for you and your boiler.

 

On building size it depends on how high you want to stack. Mine is 20' x 20' but it would have been nicer to be bigger. I use about 12- 13 cord average and it gets tight. My suggestions are concrete floor that is REAL smooth for easy sweeping. Get yourself a cart to move wood to the boiler on the inside. It'll save you all kinds of steps. Most of it is covered in the thread but feel free to ask any questions and I relay what I have found. With Cathedral trusses and boiler in my 20' x 20' I can get over 19 cord but that is with stacking over 12 foot high. Not fun.

 

I was not planning on concrete floor because of money. Was gonna compact stone dust. The building was gonna be 16x30. Just a roof this year and sides later.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

I really can do whatever is best and recommended. With in budget

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

When thinking mine out I knew I was doing this for the long term and less maintenance issues. I've always used the thought process of using the money saved by heating with wood as money that I can budget to upgrade if you will. I have concrete block sidewalls except the front face which is screwed together in sections so stove could be removed if needed. With block sidewalls with the cores filled and rebar in there, stacking against it is no problem so ricking isn't needed. Cathedral trusses allow lifting overhead. The block and concrete floor means little to no termite/bug issues. If they can't get water, they die. I didn't want mice or other critter issues either.

Cleaning up fines and bark falloffs on gravel would be a pain to me. There is quite a bit every year and no stones in the stove with concrete. The last thing you want is flammables on the floor that an ember could ignite from something you didn't see while loading. That is why I keep a tidy floor.

 

Something to think about that I didn't when I did my install was how am I gonna heat the house when the power goes out. I don't have any kind of a generator although its on the list of things to get..... It doesn't take much of a generator to run the pump (s) and forced air fan on the owb, but it takes a decent sized generator with 22o to start the central ac fan to blow air over the exchanger to heat the house. I was planning on doing staple up radiant floor to handle that issue, but have reconsidered after looking at all the mechanicals above the drop ceiling in the basement. I am now looking into hot water baseboards for those times when the power goes out and pair that with a much smaller generator that can run the pumps. Actually the baseboards may take over the main heating requirements and the forced air exchanger will run much less, which is okay with me because it will reduce the electric bill even further.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

She made it home. Now how to get it off the trailer.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk