You can go into that chimney with the liner like you said and I never know what I am doing but "I would figure it out"
I'm having a hard time getting the chimney in focus. What is on top of it? I have never seen that before. Maybe a west coast thing? Not trying to be a smart a just curious
I put a brand new Englander NC 30 and brand new SuperVent class A chimney up through the roof of my MIL/FIL new house (15' total height) with Supervent double wall stove pipe inside (with adjustable section) for ~$1300 total...stove, pipe, chimney, everything...stove from Home Depot, chimney parts from Menards. No labor charge obviously, and all the materials were on sale...but just an example of what's possible. Doesn't matter...you need the manufacturer specified minimum height for the stove to work correctly (as I said, usually 15')...especially in your mild climate! A good installer would have told you that. The chimney is the engine that drives the stove to work...crappy chimney setup, crappy performance from the stove...more than one person has pulled their new stove out and replaced it with a "better" one) (multiple times) because the stoves didn't work well...one thing in common, crappy chimney setup. As far as DIY, look on You Tube...there are TONS of videos on DIY chimneys, both chimney liners and new class A installs...many manufacturers/vendors even have vids on how to do it. You do need to check with your insurance co and local codes to see if you are allowed to DIY this...some places can't...some just require an inspection after you are done...some, as here, require nothing.
Ain't never seen one like that in these parts! We usually have the flat top with screen on the sides.
Oh true I wasn't doubting the clearances I was just letting you know that if the numbers seemed low it was because if the low roof minus what the pipe from stove to ceiling. I believe he said in a note above quote that not all pipes are included due to choice of pipes and clearances. Yes just a cap. The chimney is pre-existing from an oil furnace. The chimney on the house level was just drywalled(only my estimation!) and in the roof area above the house, not an attic shows the chimney in great shape. Off topic:I actually have a tv antenna on the cap because the chimney served as a best purpose for that, its no longer connected though. Haha..
I just went back read about the antenna. Sorry I'm guessing the furnace is no longer used? Could you hook up to the hole in the chimney where the furnace was?
Haha no worries. This is possible I just dont know where the furnace faced in the room but i have an inkling that its where the stove intends to be or proximity. Look at the photos earlier in this thread and you'll see what I mean. Right now Im thinking about the hearth because this is where it boils down to as placement. I could minimize my clearances by doing the alcove idea and since the chimney side provides fire protection, I just need the other wall done and then lay the brick and some slate tiles. Not gonna lie but the math in my head says the closer I get to my chimney the cheaper it gets.
Some chimney sweeps offer a camera inspection of the chimney. Perhaps that could give you an idea where the furnace was hooked up? Or some exploratory surgery could be done. Drywall is fairly easy to patch up.
That's what he said that was a scope test would be done. Im wondering if that test would be an expense worth doing and taking the guess work out.
Probably a long shot but might the town keep records of when the permits were issued for the original build? Might tell where the furnace was? Totally pulling this out of my azz. Like others have said I'm cheap I'd make the chimney work. Your heating a relitivly small area, even with the future addition and in a mild climate you say. Being cautious with fire is respectable but don't overthink it. And of course make sure whatever you do is cleared by your insurance.
There is really not all that much to building a hearth to specified R-values listed in stove's manual and as far as running the liner through the existing chimney or even adding a new class A chimney dedicated to the wood stove. Many members here have done it themselves with no problems. I'm assuming that you are handy with hand tools and are able to work without limitations? If you aren't that "handy" to build a hearth or install a chimney, maybe you should ask yourself if indeed wood burning is what you really want to do?
I went back and looked again...basically what his note says is that if you put the hearth/stove in the wrong spot and a stud is in the way of the chimney, then you have to pay extra for elbows to offset the stovepipe...
OK, just me thinking here. That 1140 quote would not be too bad if it include the entire run of stove pipe and chimney. Actually that would be a fairly good price at today's market. The fact that they are refusing to give a realistic quote is quite another matter. I can sell you anything you want at almost any price as long as I leave the total wide open to add-ons that I dream up. To me that smells like what is going on here.
I believe I am handy enough its not the hearth I am worried about. This stove just requires what is considered "ember protection" and Im fine with that. I think its what falls in the legal processes is what keeps me a bit leery is if I error, I hope to not make an expensive one. That's where I draw the line. Again I am only thinking to work to the best of my abilities, without so much of a big hitch. I will try my best, we'll deal with that. And yes wood burning is what I want to do and need to do. There's too much of a good supply here to not consider that a reliable and cheap resource. I handled the stove situation well but what I wasn't prepared for was a high set quote given the range of raw materials I have already acquired. This isn't to be misinterpreted as a mistake. I just see this as a chimney company that may think I am out of options which is untrue.
Thanks for the tag HDRock- i would've likely missed this...... I can walk you through an install if needed via phone. Here are some pics below of what i did at my house and i do this stuff for a living now as well as inspecting chimneys etc. Running a camera up your chimney for a video inspection will likely cost $ 200 bucks+ (this will give the inspector a close up visual for any cracked or separated flue tile, etc.) Using a mirror and a flashlight will give you a good idea as well. Usually any cracking is right at the thimble where this area gets the most abuse. These new super efficient oil furnaces are burning so clean that the condensation is eating away at flue tile, thus liner recommendations are given- if you decide on running your stove pipe up to your 90 into the chimney A liner...... yes, cost effective, usually a life time warranty - even sometimes in the event of a chimney fire God forbid. But...... There needs to be room, costs will increase if any flue tile needs to be broken to squeeze an insulated liner down there.
You're not far off on what I thought at first and fishy would be even closer. I expected his quote to be better outlined than this because it isn't detailed as much as I thought. The quote itself seems ok but the labor has a LOT to do with it and I believe he is not being honest about it because since he is consulting with someone else it is business . I would say that his consulting with the installer they changed his mind as maybe they think the ss lining is in fact cheaper, leading me to believe its not. Its too one sided.
