Had several helpings of humble pie today trying to buck a big oak. Because of the lay of the land and the way the tree landed most of the tree is off the ground. I managed to get the bar stuck 4 times during the day. The 4th one is still in the woods (see below). I've looked on YT and searched here but haven't found a situation like this. In this case most of the cut is done and the bar is stuck at the top as the pieces shifted down. I thought about a parallel cut but it was the end of the day and wasn't willing to stake mistakes while late and tired. I tried wedging with the X27 head but wasn't able to get it driven in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Do you have a spare bar/chain to keep bucking, or a spare saw entirely? I second the idea of parallel cuts. What I like to do when dealing with large logs in this situation is to hammer sacrificial wooden wedges into the kerf once I'm about 1/3 of the way into a cut. That way even if the log wants to settle, the wedges will prevent the kerf from closing up and pinching your bar.
Some regular felling wedges work great to pop in the top of the cut and prevent the kerf from closing and pinching. They are fairly inexpensive. Sent from my SM-S536DL using Tapatalk
I don't know what is more impressive; your bar pinching ability, or the straightness of that big red oak. I have never seen an oak tree that straight in Oklahoma, not even close...
Yep, plastic wedges inserted while you’re still making the cut. It’s advice I should take more often myself. It’s usually too late by the time I think I should LOL
Must be that Oklahoma wind they’re always singing about. Poor things a little crooked by Ct standards JK
Looks like you should have plenty of room to drive a felling wedge into the cut below where your bar is stuck. If you don’t have any they aren’t expensive and will be a hand tool to have.
Agree with what’s been said. As soon as I’m able, I pound my felling wedge into the kerf to keep bar from being pinched. Works perfectly.
Go to tractor supply or wherever and get like 4 or 5 wedges. Always keep one in your back pocket or kangaroo pocket when cutting. Dont worry if you hit them.
If you are not equipped with wedges use sticks. A stick similar in size to the width of cut. Slide the stick an inch or so into the cut break it off and repeat. It will also prevent it from closing on your saw.
If you don't have a spare bar/chain or another saw, I guess you will need a wedge or two. A wedge could be inserted below your bar but above the top half of the log, otherwise, if you put the wedge in the bottom half, you will worsen the situation. The closer you can get a wedge to your stuck bar, the better. If you can saw, you could carefully cut a slice angled from the top of the log to come into your kerf below the bar so as not to hit the bar! Remove that chunk of wood and out comes your bar. Another option would be, if you can saw, is to buck rounds off the short end of the log until you get close to your stuck bar. Take/use wedges so that you don't get stuck again! Then dig under the short piece of log you have left such that the short round left attached can drop by gravity and when it does, your bar will lift right out. In the future, felling wedges and a spare bar/chain or saw are your friends. Been there, done that! Also, a shovel. I have one that folds.
Wedges as others have said at this point. When I’m working a log that is partially in the air anywhere, I will cut some limb wood pieces and put under in various spots so I can cut it while it’s hanging in the air and not flat on the ground.
Thank you all for the generous advice. I do have an extra bar and saw so that will help. Heading out for wedges and then round 2 with the oak. I'll give an update and proper thanks to everyone when I return.
A scissor jack can help out in a pinch also. I wouldn’t suggest carrying one around for regular use, using wedges so you don’t get pinched is much easier. But if it’s nearby in your car/truck and there are no other options it can do the trick.
Just seeing this thread. Yes the plastic wedges are a life saver. I should use them more often. In this case you can take a steel wedge or two and pound them into the kerf until it opens up enough to free the bar. I don't recommend using them while cutting though. Plastic is a lot more forgiving should you nick it with the saw. Another technique for logs under tension is the plunge cut. I've been using it more and more the last couple years. Basically plunge the bar into the log maybe 1/4 of the way from the top and cut all the way to the bottom. Finish the cut going up and the cut is done. Works great for logs that cant be rolled but are off the ground.
If you ever encounter a tree/log off the ground prop it up in several spots prior to bucking so when cut through it will stay off the ground. Smaller rounds work perfect for such.