Fahrenheit Technologies Endurance 50F Information

Well my issue right now is I am getting no flame detected and shutdowns. Ranging after 24 hours.
I watched the YouTube on the switch trouble shooting and got good numbers I checked auger volts and got good numbers I think, had 122 volts after using prime button.
I pulled the auger out and the brass bushing looks fine no wear. Unless it somehow wore perfectly uniform?
it seems as soon as the top of the auger is exposed to air the stove shuts down.
My large concern to boot is I believe I’m burning through fuel far faster then I should be.
So appx 2yrs ago maybe my dumb@&$ pulled the lcd screen to lube the rails and did not unplug. the board arcd on the metal. The stove has still worked however last year I really think I was burning more than I should.
In the meantime Fri night I plugged some burn pot holes and added a gasket to my hopper extension. Added gasket to the burn pot
Earlier in the week i silicones the typical hopper leak areas.
Re cleaned the stove and yes the baffle plate in the back, did the lead blower trick
I managed to get a board from a Michigan dealer Friday.
Am going to call or track down the company that makes the boards the sticker is on the circuitry if they are responsive ill put info up on here.
My next steps are to try new board, and or temp bypass the Honeywell switch on the side
Any one good with electronics I wonder how it would be retrofitting another company board on ? Just a thought seems the st croix uses a lot of same sub components

 

I've got a couple of resources I'm gonna reach out to and see if they can build them. Gotta buddy with a cnc plasma table in his garage. Hopefully he can come up with something.

 

Last year I've burned the most I ever seen, it was a cold one for sure. Either the pellets had lost some btu's or I was using too much air and was torching my heat out the chimney which I think what happened. Reducing the air and slowing down the burning and holding back the heat in the chamber is the trick to get the most btu's out of your pellet's. The flame has to have a wavering flutter to it instead of a torch like.

 

I agree this year I am hard focused on the tune. Once I get going
I think a have a feed rate issue though I’m ripping through a bag in a little over 16 hours on level one auger trim one.

 

I have the #1 feed rate trim at the lowest setting for a longer operation when I go away for a couple of days and let the oil furnace keep the house from getting too cold. I never calculated the usage but I know it's at it's slowest!

 

Hi gang, new member SN 2810. Looking for the older style updated exhaust manifold for improved flow. Any leads on finding one would be appreciated. Pasting in a pic of the original and updated one that I saved off here a while ago.

 

Fahrenheit just went out of Biz so OEM parts like a Manifold would be hard to come by. Good luck.
The only alternative is if you know a good welder that could fabricate one. That is a definite possibility.

 

Most any competent fab shop can make one...for a price of course.

 

Fabbing one is not out of the question, was hoping for the easy way out tracking down one…Some a follow up question for anyone who has one - my older stove has 4 studs, it appears that the newer manifold would cover one up, do you just use the remaining 3?

 

Have no idea as I don't own one but adding or removing a stud is as easy as cutting it off or applying a riv-nut stud where it needs to be.

 

The inherent issue is, of course, once a manufacturer folds, as time progresses, the replacement parts get harder and harder to find and more costly. Don't matter how good any unit is, it's only as good as the availability of replacement or consumable parts. I'm in the nice position of being able to make parts that are NLA but I don't like doing it. I have in the past but I charged according for them. Find a local shop and have it made and hope their shop rate is reasonable. Base rate around here for most fab shops is $150.00 per hour plus materials and consumables.

 

Bit more involved than just welding Don. The parts have to be cut properly from sheet steel and then fitted up and welded.

 

Oh Yes, Fabrication.