Any body have or work on a 028 Stihl?

There are no access holes in the flywheel. There are 4 holes but they don't go all the way through. I appreciate the info and tips too. Do you think I'd be better off converting to the electronic they show in the video if the points don't change anything? By their website it looks to be around $40.00 bucks. I like how he says wore for wire..

 

Well he is from down South. You Dad paid $10 for the saw, now you are contemplating another $40 for the electronics module, so then the two of you will have $50 in it and it may still not run.

I think you can get the Nova or Nova II module at NAPA auto parts for a lot less than red barn wants for it. The last couple I bought at NAPA cost $19. The module is definately cheaper than a decent dial indicator that you will use only a few times.

 

+1 Agree MM

 

My thoughts also. Fuel delivery issue.

 

I guess I'm not describing what it is doing very well. It'll hit one to three times(stroke) with a fast pull and it always at the very end of the pull. Just a quick pop if you will. Normally, for me anyway, when it is a fuel delivery or carb issue they will run at least a 1/2 second or so till they use up the fuel that was either put in by hand or from the fuel drawn in from finger over the carb intake. You can normally keep them running by using your finger as a butterfly over the intake when the air filter is off. THERE IS PLENTY OF FUEL THERE, too much at times. I only poured gas in it once. The rest of the times it was pulling it in on it's own. That is why I'm leaning towards a weak/intermittant spark situation.

Red barn has a replacement electrontic coil that is $25.00

http://www.lilredbarn.net/product-p/0000-400-1300.htm

I emailed them and he said it sounded like a bad condenser. The coil is supposed to fit on most any Stihl saw so if it doesn't fix it I can always save it for another saw down the line.

I work in a tool shop as my day job so dial indicators, mag bases and such are not a problem. One thing I was wondering about. When setting the points you are trying to find the MOST open spot will be, correct? If that is the case, I was thinking of making a tapered bushing with a keyway relief and have the OD to the highest part of the lobe( on the inside of the flywheel) Would make setting points a lot easier when you don't have reliefs/access in the flywheel. Might be worth making some up if Stihl uses the same size taper on a lot of their flywheels. Anyone know or is every model run different?


I report back on how this goes. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong and I'll readily admit it.

I do appreciate your input guys. It's just my inability to clarify what is happening.

 

Not completely sure, but I don't think that a flywheel designed for a points saw will work with a non points coil. IIRC the flywheels with both the A&B keyway were designed to work with either type ignition system. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Asked on another forum:

"So if you simply get rid of the points and condenser, and put this different coil in, the saw will work properly? No need to do anything different with the stock 028WB flywheel? Mine looks to have two magnet pickups...looks like it anyway. If it's that simple, I'll buy one right now. I would like to get rid of the points, since they are near impossible to gap, without a cut down old flywheel so you can get to them. Love Stihls, but this is a pretty ridiculous setup..."

Masterminds reply:

"Yep just a coil swap is all that you need."

 

Okay, Sorry for the delay on getting back on this but the new coil came and I finally had some time today to install it. Here we go.



From what I have been told this is the same on the 028 6through 440 saws so this may be of some help to you guys. Video says you do not have to even take off the flywheel or remove points. I allready had the flywheel loose so it wasn't a big deal. Here is where I started after removing the starter cover.



Loosened the coil screws and took the points off. Time for a clean up!



Where the wires come through there is a rubber grommet. You could dab it with silicon but I feed a larger wire though to plug the hole. This size wire snaps in the case so it isn't going anywhere. I'll snip the end off so it can't come in contact with anything.



Nice and tidy so that no dirt will get in there.



Before putting the flywheel back on I sanded, by hand, the contact points on the magnets.



Here is the new electronic coil. Came with all the wires cut to the correct length and plug end and boot on it. SWEET. Plug and play.



I took the top cover off the saw to make it easier but the say you don't have to. I wanted to clean it up anyway. I then fed the new kill wire through to the switch.



Pushed the other end of the kill switch wire into place.



Put the cover back on and reused my original second wire coming from the switch to the cover screw. This screw is the ground to case to complete the circuit.

 

Snugged the coil up pulling it away from the flywheel as much as possible. Put a .010 bus. card between the flywheel and coil, make sure to align the magnets on the flywheel to coil. Loosened the screws and retighten them.

I then put the starter cover back on. Pulled twice and nothing. Third time it popped pretty good but so did the starter rewind. Pulled it off and plastic had broke and messed up the spring. MY LUCK.

Went to Ebay and got the correct 3 hole cover which is metal as opposed to plastic. Came complete with metal spool as my plastic one had broke. Cost $28.00 for it. Put it on and after three pulls it started. adjusted the low speed screw a 1/4 turn and runs perfect. NO carb rebuild needed! I try it in a log tomorrow but I think Dad is going to like it. Yeah, I have $53.00 bucks in it but for a Stihl with 165 PSI that is a good deal to me.

I'd highly recommend the coil as it takes the points, and setting them, out of the equation. This saw had no easy way to set them so in the long run, I feel I'm better off.




Ready to play!

 

Nice work, I like that everything gets cleaned up during the repair process!

 

Great job Kevin, your Dad will definitely be very happy with it! That's not much $ into it either!

 

Hi Kevin, not sure if you mentioned, but where did you get the coil and is it OEM?

I haven't had time to revisit my 038M, but I'm nearly certain I have a coil issue as well. I am fairly certain the 028/038 series share coils.

 

It's a replacement coil, not OEM Stihl. I got it from Lil Red Barn

Here's a link to the site:

http://www.lilredbarn.net/Default.asp

REALLY easy to search and breaks it down with easy clicking selections. Looks like your saw does share the same coil. Dead simple to do.

 

$53... Only a little over twice market value


j/k nice job.

 

^^^^ 90% chance your carb is gummed up. Go through and clean it very carefully. I would not have messed with the ignition.

 

Then you would have not fixed the problem. It WAS ignition with weak, intermittent spark. What looked okay upon initial look see was not strong enough. It would just pop occasionally. EVERY time I have had a carb issue you can get the saw to run for a second or 2 by putting gas in the butterfly or holding a finger over the butterfly to basically full choke it. UNLESS you have a gummed up or closed fuel line when trying to hand choke it. Bottom line, carb was fine and only adjusted it a 1/4 turn on the low speed to have it perfect.

If you notice in the first pic it had a faded yellow name tag on it. If I had to guess I'd say it was taken somewhere to be worked on. They may have redone the carb thinking as others that it would solve it. Once it didn't they may have given up as it "looked" like the spark was okay. We'll never know but it doesn't matter at this point. I runs great and that is what I was after.

Did just go get an air filter for it OUCH! $32.00 as it has a choke assembly built into it. They set it was a rare version and they looked it up. Seems a Stihl 028 was only made from 1979 - 1980. I did price elsewhere before going and others want $28.00 and you get a plug and fuel filter. I wanted to play and with shipping it would have been close to a wash.

Spent some time talking with the Dealer and told him the story on the saw. He shook his head and said they see it all the time. He said either the older guys are just too weak to pull them or people don't know how to start them. Said they want to throw them out and get a newer easy start version. I can see how dealers get a lot of nice stuff now!

 

OK I stand corrected. Glad you got it fixed.

 

Just saw this and I went thru the same deal, had 2 working carbs to interchange, so I got the megafire II installed and worked great. It does use the same fly wheel,

Nice job!!!!