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Advice on new stove install- ideal steel

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Brad38, Mar 9, 2015.

  1. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Hi everyone! Fairly new to the forum... I am planning a permanent garage conversion (garage is located in the back of my house) in about 8 weeks, and have decided to incorporate a wood stove into the plans! After much research, and with the help of all your reviews/input, have decided on the Woodstock Ideal Steel. (I'll be calling before the free shipping promo ends! :) now that I've picked my stove, I need to decide whether to have it installed (I will be having it installed by a pro) top-vent or rear-vent. Since I have essentially a "clean slate" to work with here, would there be any advantage to one over the other? If you guys were in my shoes, how would you install?Per the ideal steel owner's manual, the completed height minimum is 15' for the stovepipe/chimney. So if I go top-vent, I'm thinking I'll have about 9' of class A flu through the roof. If I go rear-vent through the (yet to be built) wall, I would probably have the 15' flu "boxed in" with the matching vinyl, etc. sorry this was so long! I just wanted to hopefully make it clear as mud what it is I'm asking. Here are some pics of what we have to work with! I've also included a couple of images from the stove manual, showing my options. (Stove and hearth will be placed smack-dab where the middle of the garage door is, as close to the wall as possible) image.jpg image.jpg

    image.jpg image.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  2. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Also, I found this picture on the Internet of what we envision the final outcome of the conversion to look like!we are looking where the garage door is, with a couple of feet more opened up on both sides. (of course the stove and set-up will be different):

    image.jpg
     
  3. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    First welcome to FHC Brad38! As far as chimneys go sraight up will draft best. I look forward to seeing your new install.
     
  4. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thank you! Yeah, After the horrendous winter here in the Midwest, the final straw was when our electricity went out with negative temps outside. We have a heat pump with propane back-up, but useless w/o any juice! I knew then a wood stove was in my future...
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  5. fox9988

    fox9988

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    I would go straight up through the ceiling and out the roof. Similar to the Installation 1 diagram, but with the stove top vented. Better draft and cheaper- less Class A, less framing, less siding, possibly less chimney to meet the 2-3-10 rule (vs through the wall).
     
  6. fox9988

    fox9988

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  7. HDRock

    HDRock

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    As long as I have the choice always straight up, better draft + more interior stovepipe and that will keep your chimney hotter , less chance of creosote
     
  8. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thanks for the response! So, it sounds like given the choice, top venting is the way to go. I'm guessing folks that rear vent are doing so more b/c they already have an existing chimney their tying in to?
     
  9. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thanks for responding. I do want a good draft. I've read some of the threads on here about poor drafting issues, and would like to do what I can to minimize that.
     
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  10. Brad38

    Brad38

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    If going top vent, Here's random (to me) examples I've found with a top-vent setup the wife and I like. I think I can keep her happy if we color match the stovepipe to the stove, and incorporate some sort of "mantel" in the design. I'm sure double-wall stovepipe will be in order.

    (I would prefer the hearth to match the wall treatment more, and be wider, but this one is cool I think):
    image.jpg
    Another:
    image.jpg

    Rear venting does seem to lend a cleaner look, but I do not want to sacrifice function for looks:
    image.jpg
     
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  11. Fanatical1

    Fanatical1

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    If it were me, I would top vent it for the reasons already stated, better draft, and slightly easier to clean and it might be cheaper also.

    With the optional rear heat sheild you can get it 6" from the wall if you dont want it sitting out in the room as much.

    I would also raise the question with Woodstock if you can go a little lower
    with the total stack height to minimize the total pipe height if your going straight up. I personally dont like the look of 9' of pipe extending out of the roof. Ultimately you need to do what is required.
     
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  12. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Don't get me wrong they work but, Out the wall, outside the house chimney, is the worst choice if you have the choice,
     
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  13. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thanks for responding! Yeah, the plan (if doing top vent) is to opt for the heat shield and utilize double-wall stovepipe to get that 6" clearance per the Ideal Steel manual. I do want to keep it as close to the wall as installation clearances allow. Good suggestion about the stack height. I will speak to Woodstock about that. I don't want to sacrifice draft, but me and (especially) the wife do not care for the idea of a 9' stainless flu on the roof. That would be so tall it would probably stick out like a sore thumb looking at the front of the house from the road. One option would be to have it "boxed in" up there by the contractor, but not sure what that may cost. Lol
     
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  14. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Would prob be delicate work on my 7/12 roof? Boxed in on the roof, may look something like this (only taller probably!) Sorry, as you can tell I like pics! Lol:

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  15. CoachSchaller

    CoachSchaller

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    Just for a variety:
    If you go rear vent, you might be able to use a T and have a clean out! If you go rear vent, you would have more stove top real estate for cooking and steamers.
     
  16. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Good thoughts! It sounds like there are pros and cons to both setups.
     
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  17. Brad38

    Brad38

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    It does look like there is quite a bit of space on top of the ideal steel. I like the fact that it has the three burners. I can see a steamer and the occasional meal working out nicely! :)
     
  18. JA600L

    JA600L

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    Another aspect to consider is the little bit of heat that the pipe wall puts off is still free heat. Why give the outside heat if you can keep it in.
     
  19. papadave

    papadave

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    This.
    The size/type of the hearth will be dictated to you in the manual, as will the CTC.
    The length of Class A out the roof might be something you'll be able to adjust, but again, it's about following the 10-3-2 rule to help mitigate any possible draft issues. Most stoves also require a minimum of between 12-15' total flue height.
    Some allow that measurement to begin at the floor directly under the stove, while others require it to be from the stove collar.
    By the bye, Welcome to the FHC family, Brad.

    Well then, you'll fit in here just fine.:thumbs:
     
  20. Brad38

    Brad38

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    Thanks for the thoughts! :) Proper installation will be priority, and will be adhered to. My primary question revolved around rear-vent vs. top-vent installation, and any considerations/thoughts. Aesthetics is more of a secondary consideration, but still important as we want a "nice" installation, and want to be smart about it. I'm a newb who has never operated a wood stove, but feel much more prepared to take it on this fall thanks to you guys!
     
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