As long as were derailed here... Current fuel tank is filled with 32:1 belray and 91 octane pure gas. Since the belray fell out of my truck bed I will use something else this time but am also going to switch to 87. Octane pure gas. Thinking of something full syn that i can get at orielys?
I just got an email from a guy that swears a saw I built for him is 2 - 3 seconds faster per cut with 110 octane. I have a hard time swallowing that.
I like the idea of staying mixed but in my own stuff I always 'shake before I bake'! I like working on saws but do everything I can to avoid working on my own.
Me too, perhaps he has finally gotten the saw broken in? I also wonder if he is running avgas, don't know anywhere other than the air field to get 110. Or perhaps he put the chain on right way around!
Randy if your running non alcohol gas stick with your oil. I just like knowing mine wont separate with alcohol gas I use. KL200 was good enough for the $3000 to $6000 high powered alky/nitro racesaws and good enough for my stock saws using alcohol gas.
Who pays $10 a gal at the pump for race gas? Last I seen was Cam 2 in the pump about $5. 114 octane I think too.
The last Cam 2 I got was just under $6 a gallon.. Just seen non ethanol 87 for $4 a gallon. I used to run a lot of Castor 927. Back when I raced and rode Motocross (and in my Banshee) I recently ran out of Castor and have Amsoil Dominator and some Stihl Ultra. After talking with Jrsdws yesterday, I don't believe I will be running Castor 927 anymore. Based on what he was told about his saw.
Another oil thread ??? LOL Guys . I have had a lot of saws and 2 stroke stuff . Believe it or not I have a few saws that I have had for over 15 years . And they have had the snot run out of them . No carb jobs...no seized up pistons . I have only ran Husqvarna xp oil..thats it . Only difference is now I run about 36:1 instead of 50:1 !!
Glad to hear its doing well !! Think you can replicate the performance of yours......If i send you mine ?? Is this "finger porting" different than the regular 262xp you did for me a year or so back ?
What's your favorite method for removing carbon? Do you pull the cylinder and clean it up mechanically, or is it a chemical approach? I'm almost sure this saw was run with mineral-based oil for most or all of its life. The guys I bought it from barely knew which end of a chainsaw was the handle. I can't imagine them grabbing anything but the cheapest bottle on the store shelf.
I thought last I saw it was $6 or $8. I dont know I dont buy it . I pay $3.50-3.90 for non E 87 octane and I dont race so I dont pay any attention to it?
I'd go 30-40 miles one way if it was extra nice.The 2100CD & 288XPW could always use a little brother.
Dag has not found any further info on the 262 jug you have. How is the saw cleaning up? I have a bunch of odd 262 parts round here, what do you need? I once made the mistake of using oven cleaner on a carbon crusted piston, don't do that! Have also used WD40, soaked the top of the piston in it. Turns the carbon into goo that can be scraped off with a razor blade, but be gentle with the scraping.
I haven't pulled the cylinder off, and am debating whether the carbon is worth worrying about. I didn't include a base gasket in my parts order, so getting one would mean another shipping charge; I don't have an inventory of parts sitting around. On the other hand I also forgot to order the rubber dust flap that's missing from the back of the sprocket cover, so I could get that at the same time. In general it's cleaning up quite nicely. I discovered that the threads for the chain catcher are stripped, but that appears to be the only damage to the case itself. I'll probably just tap it out to one size bigger. One end of one of the little bars in the recoil cover is cracked. I'm thinking of welding it on the back side with a soldering iron, and then reinforcing with a little JB Weld on the back too. Those, and the broken off top cover screw are the worst of the problems I've found.
