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Your nc30 needs a convection deck

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Highbeam, Jan 17, 2015.

  1. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    What is this tubing, and what is its function?

    Maybe raise your table height?
    A little more speed.... Drill press has different pulleys, right?
    A lighter touch at first to knock down those ridges.
    See what happens with a fresh hole, Dave.
     
  2. papadave

    papadave

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    The 1.5" square tubing that'll hold up the plate.
    I actually adjusted the speed lower, so I can kick it up a little, and raise the table too.
     
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  3. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Ooooh, yes, the square tubing.....had trouble imagining some little round tubing being used:rofl: :lol:

    Yeah, let's see what you can do with a little tweaking on that countersinking......:sherlock:
     
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  4. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Maybe you're running the countersink too fast.
    Leave the stock loose, bring the bit into the hole and turn the Chuck by hand so the cutter turns the opposite way it normally does to line up in the hole, be sure it does not move and clamp it down tight.
    I guess it depends how many screws you are going to put in but you could use 3/16.
    I would just tap the tubing no need to tap the top plate.
    I have this speed chart printed out and put it in plastic, hanging by my drill press.
     

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  5. papadave

    papadave

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    Just had a bright idea to weld it all together,.......but I don't have a welder.
    Time for some window shopping. :thumbs:
     
  6. HDRock

    HDRock

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    A welding shop would do it in 10 minutes probably 20 bucks, maybe less IDK, you will need to wire wheel the paint off where the welds go
     
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  7. papadave

    papadave

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    I think the mechanic in town has a welder. Hmmm.
    He might do it for close to nuthin' for me. Maybe I'll go talk to him.
    I still need to attach the little back plate to the main plate with a couple screws, so back to the problem at hand.
    I'll go mess with speeds and stuff.
     
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  8. HDRock

    HDRock

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    That would save ya a lot of time screwin around with it.
    if you are going to tap for some screws you need the right size drill bit for the tap , it might be a letter or number size bit
     
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  9. papadave

    papadave

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    I was wondering about that.
     
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  10. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE...art.html/RK=0/RS=uRR2a_w2tPdKTESG1pdUozJGgHY- Drill/tap size chart
    What size screw you thinking?
    You should be fine because the screws will not be carrying any real load and don't need to be ultra tight. But if it is a concern then you can just pick a fine tread pitch (national fine NF vs national course NC) Like a size 10, you have a 10-24 (NC) which will have 24 threads per inch (or 3 threads in 1/8"), a 10-32 (NF) will have 32 threads per inch (or 4 threads in 1/8")
     
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  11. raybonz

    raybonz Moderator

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    The rule for tapping is you need at least 2 full threads.. The more the merrier.. As for drill sizes for 1/4"-20 you need a #7 or 13/64" drill bit.. Hard to explain tapping but I can tell you that taps are GH3 which is very hard and brittle.. Turn tap about a 1/8-1/4 turn CW then CCW a bit to break and clear the chips.. YES you need cutting oil ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  12. papadave

    papadave

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    Thinking 3/16 or 1/4" screw.
    So, a 10-32 would be a 21 drill, if I'm reading correctly. I had no idea drill were sized that way. How does that translate to a normal standard or metric size?
    Here's a pic of one of the tap & die sets I "inherited".
    IMG_20160814_181457_524.jpg
     
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  13. papadave

    papadave

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    Oh, and so Eric is even less confused:D, here's a pic of the painted square tubes.
    IMG_20160814_161828_748.jpg
     
  14. raybonz

    raybonz Moderator

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    The drill should never be smaller than the recommended size.. With no prior experience I would go with the recommended drill.. There are machinists here that can give a better answer I am sure..
     
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  15. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Yes, a 21 or one that measures .159" diameter.
    I would think going with a 1/4 size would make it easier to find those "specialty head" screws you were talking about...but size 10 is not exactly unusual either so either one should be fine...but then again, I may lean to the larger size just because it can take such a gentle touch to thread steel with the smaller size taps...give yourself the best chance of success...
     
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  16. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Yep, you're reading it right, don't deviate, use the proper drill bit size as per chart.
    If the hole is too small you will probably break your tap, too large and it will be a sloppy fit and strip easily, done that.
     
  17. papadave

    papadave

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    This wouldn't work either. :D
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. papadave

    papadave

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    Did a little test this morning with a 13/64" drill and 1/4-20 tap.....a little loosie goosie.
    Just went to the local Ace and got a #7 bit and some 1/4-20 1/2" machine screws. Now, off to the shop I go to see if I can get this done.
     
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  19. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Yep, see
    #7 bit-- .2010
    13/64 bit-- .2031
    Did ya use a wood block ?
     
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  20. papadave

    papadave

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    Nope, no wood block. Eye've got a pretty gooder eye. The main plate is done, with some cleanup yet to do. I'll be doing the small back plate tomorrow.
    Here's what it looks like sitting on the stove before drilling, etc......
    IMG_20160815_153723_855.jpg
    The first screw set........... IMG_20160815_162256_198.jpg