Question, my glass on the fireview is smoking up. The lowest I’ve had my air setting is just under 1. The wood I’m burning was css on thanksgiving weekend in 2016. Heck it was a dead ash. Moisture is testing 15-16%. My chimney draws great. I’m lost on the glass smoking up.
Isn’t just under 1 almost off? Running really low will cause dirty glass because there’s not enough air incoming to prevent smoke and gases from touching the glass. It’s normal.
From what I’ve read most set their fireview to around .75 for a cat burn. I don’t feel that 1 is low.
So just to double check, you're burning with the Cat disengaged while waiting for the stove top temp to read 250ish before engaging the cat, correct? I'll always engage at 250 or very close to it, and then I'll keep to stove damper wide open until I'm seeing a temp of at least 350 before I damp down, and then at that point, now that I'm sure the cat has solidly gone into ignite mode, then I'll damp down to 1:00. I have also noted that at least on my stove / chimney system, my settings zre extremely sensitive anywhere below 1.0. I don't go much below this, even with very dry wood. Just me.
I’ve found my glass smokes up if I close the bypass too soon, but it usually clears up once it gets up to temperature. Doing it like Oldhippie says avoids it very well. Once the stove cools a damp paper towel cleans it right off easily.
If you're always burning just under one the airwash isn't getting enough air to work well. It's like you have to pick one: A clean-ish window or an open window or door. Or hope for really cold weather so you can turn the stove up a bit. On the TN19 stove it's obvious where the airwash is weak on the sides and strong across the middle.
We have two stove shops in our whole county that sell wood stoves. It's the strick regulations we have on wood burning appliances. Can't install any wood stove that emits greater than 1.0 grams per hour of particulate matter, so there's not a big demand for wood stoves in Washoe County
Kinda short...but I would think it would be pulling a decent draft since straight up...l was thinking maybe you are getting low draft when running below 1 for a while...
That's a good technique too. I only suggested going a bit higher as I'm lazy and from getting up and engaging at 200+-250 wide open, it doesn't take too long for me to reach 300-350 time to damp down. Only real point is to not damp down until you've got the stove to temp so the cat takes off, and the wood is charred. I find getting on the plus side of 300 is a fine time to slow the air flow down. But I've experimented a lot and I seem to need a draft set at 1 for my optimum cruise range, ie minimal flames, slightly glowing splits and a bright orange CAT with 600+ STT. Maybe >250'F a foot up the pipe with a single wall pipe and a simple magnet thermometer. Love looking up at the chimney outdoors and seeing no smoke. But sometime miss the beautiful scent of woodsmoke in the air. Thing is every stove/exhaust path forms a system, and every system is going to be different to some extent. So what works for me may not work for you and visa-versa. I know Dennis runs his almost all the time at .5, mine doesn't seem to like .5 at anything above zero degrees. I've got a rear exhaust 90' bend , then another 90' into the Chimney then a final 90' another to go up the chimney also also have an older style 8 inch chimney, not one of those nice 6 inch SS flues. All that makes a difference too. Only other thing that comes to my mind as to do with the cleanness of the glass is I stopped using any bottle products on the cleaning of the glass. All that stuff I think doesn't fully evaporate and disappear but puts some film on the glass that browns out. I see this big time on my AS window downstairs.. and now just use water with a little ash-dust from the stove on a paper towel, to clean, then just tap water to rinse then just dry it and let it evaporate for a bit before restarting.
In webby's pic, you can tell he's got the air probably 1.5 or more with that flame and glowing splits. I run quite a bit between .5-.75. If it's cold out, I might run flame in the box but if I don't need a lot of heat, it's a cat-only burn. My glass is at least hazed most of the time, can get gunked in the lower corners if I burn some splits that are a little damp. Just goes to show, there's no one way that you have to run these stoves. With dry wood I can usually close the Keystone bypass at 150 stove, less sometimes, then cut the air to maybe 1.25 and run a little flame until the cat starts glowing. It doesn't always start glowing instantly like it does if the stove top is hotter, but I can hear the telltale ticking and know the cat is kicking in, STT starts rising and the plume cleans up pretty quickly. Cat starts glowing and I cut to .5. Fireview, I usually went at about 175. Right now, I'm at .6 and have floating flame in front of the cat screen.
I just missed a Classic for $300, passed on a Keystone at $800-but-willing-to-talk, and am trying to finalize on a Palladian for $350. This is just within the past week of looking. If you are willing to clean up some rust, there are some great deals out there.
With that large home you have I'm surprised you're looking for a small one. Is it to just warm up a smaller section of the house?
No, it is for my brother’s place, which is a lot smaller than here. A Fireview would be too much stove for the spot this one is going. He didn’t want to spend much, and I know Woodstock parts are available and inexpensive, and their stoves are designed so they can be rebuilt.
Thanks - Two and a half hours west of me, and the stove will end up 3 hours east of me. I got lucky and am looking at one over near Maina , about 10 miles from where it needs to go.