Woodstock Absolute Steel

I've overfired mine a time or two and it now has a slight bow in that top plate. I'm going to see how much a new one will cost. I'll drive up and get it, as it would be an excuse to see what else might be up.

 

I'm sure mine is the gasket, unless it was some flaw from the beginning, whoch I doubt. I seriously doubt that I've overfired mine... I think I've seen 500 once, maybe twice, and was chitting bricks then...

 

I'm sure it depends on lots of variables...but what is the thought on how long a gasket should last?

 

I got these too on CAT only burns (no flames) before I added height to the chimney, it would go away when the secondary's lit. The height helped a lot but I do wonder if the CAT "hood scoop" adds to this issue because it throws all the exhaust towards that gasket (and also towards the soap stone which is good). I also keep a cast iron pot on top for water. Not sure it helps because it's weight would depress the gasket but it does add some weight to that top plate.

 

I don' think 500 is over firing. The video below is cruising at 550 per the comments. I do think over 600 is entering over fire stage.



To me it seems like a gasket and/or draft issue.

 

So I think I was wrong with what I stated above about fluffing the gasket...in terms of how the insides would be oriented. I was thinking the cat being thrown would take the area just under the lid 'out of play', when actually it's just the opposite. Luckily when I opened it to fluff most everything was done and there were no ill effects.

I fluffed it.....seemed the gasket almost wanted to come out of the channel in a few places. I think it helped some, but still got some smell. Annoying, esp since it worked so well the other week....

Same here in terms of when I mainly get the smell. Makes sense about the scoop. I put 4 ft of stovepipe on top of my chimney as a test. It does help, but doesn't totally take care of it. When the weather breaks I will get the company to come make a better fix with class a, hopefully that will help that much more.

 

Try this product below if you have a SS liner

https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/products/rock-vent-transition-plate

 

Funny you post that vid.. Right before I looked at the maual that's downloaded on my phone to see cat and scoop, I'm at work and can't picture exact orientation. Didn't see what I needed in manual so googled and that vid popped up. It auto played a bit...I chuckled to see her loading with that much fire in the box. Not something I do, I guess cause my draft doesn't support it....

I'm sure your synopsis of the draft and gasket being the culprits is spot on.

 

Yep, I think that's the piece, or similar to it, the chimney guy will use. The rhino rigid will need to be cut down closer to the brickwork, and he'll need to fix the crown, to make that work.

 

On Ideal steel, was talking to Tom owner of Woodstock; about last cold snap at owners bbq. I said I was keeping STT 600-625 for weeks.
He laughed at me and said take that stove out of 3rd gear

 

I just looked at the quote from the chimney place. It says "duratech finishing collar transition from single-wall pipe to insulate stainless steel 6" duratech pipe", and shows $147.50. When I google 'duratech finishing collar transition', I'm a bit nervous if that is the piece that should be used? I know when I finally found something, it looked similar to what you posted (or maybe it was the same), and it was close to $400.

 

I have limited air flow in the house regarding the stoves location and can't stretch out the stoves legs. 300-350 stt is good enough and makes that room overly warm sometimes.

 

Hah, figured as much,

I never really need it that hot but could probably get it there, I try for 550 and reload every 12 hours unless the high temp for the day is in the low teens/single digits then it is every 8 hours.

 

If you hit 550...or whatever high stt you get to...about how long does your stove stay there? I know it depends on lots of variables, but just a generic guestimate...

 

Depends on species of wood and draft; 3-4 hours then add air, in these temps 8 hour reloads

just like VTAbstoluteSteel

 

Adding air is huge, took me a while to learn that one

Helps the massive coaling during a cold spell and gives you a more consistent heat when it is turned down originally. I just am not up at 3am though....

 

So, and this may sound dumb.... But does that mean you get the stove where you want it and set the air 'down', but then after while / over time, you turn the air back up?

 

So, I'm sitting here thinking "holy F, how did I not pick up on this from people before...?"

Agree with the not up to turn it up, well usually.... And if I did that, I would have less coals in the am. Often I don't have a packed stove due to not wanting/needing high temps. And sometimes it fights me if I'm loading on good hot coals, in terms of being able to get it loaded w/o smoke coming out if it catches up or starts smoldering before I'm done. Although the extra pipe has helped with that a bit...

 

I only actively try to add air to bring the coals down if I am doing 8 hour reloads which for me means we have highs in the low teens and below zero at night (This morning was -13).

If I am doing 12 hours, I usually wont bother because the coals burn down enough.

 

Oh ok, makes sense. I could see turning air up if it was during the day and I was home to tend it....