Partitioning was tricky. I knew I wanted something and knew I should reduce and potential side load on walls. Came up with this: 5/4 extra decking on both ends (gal nails holding it) Extra 2x12s spanning from post to post (had to build out from one post to get the 90).
Get a nail bag if you don't have one... I used a lot of old fasterners I had from my grandfather's place. Only bought a few structural screws and tin screws. Still not done with trim tin, facias, gutter, pressure wash, then paint. Also need to level gravel a bit better. But... I did start to fill it today.
Wow 20-25 cords :stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke::stacke:
Air can still get in but little drying is needed for me. I'm a few years out so I won't be relying on the shed to season wood. The gravel area behind it will have stacks as well. We're going to watch that area for water problems and will curtain drain it if needed.
That knee brace or "kicker" is just one of those things. On large barns they're installed way up to the trusses--- my thought on a smaller scale is: why not? With pole structures it's sometimes better to think of wall, roof, other walls as separate entities (so to speak). The tin helps.
That looks great! Pretty much what I want to do, except only 30' long. So the concrete and posts, how did you do that, can you show a finished picture of that? I was thinking about using sonotubes, then putting a galvanized metal piece that would hold ( lag bolted) the 4x4 posts to the concrete.
The sonotubes are a great option. So are laminated homemade posts. I don't have a pic of the post setup. It's the way most dairy farms are built around here if they're not tubes or footers. Basically get the hole below frost code depth (really frost can get down 4-5ft here and other places), them tamp w spud, then place blocking, then tamp w post if you can. Get concrete around it all, brace w rocks and soil, then fill and knock air bubbles w spud bar. Then tamp... may still settle around posts. Lots of ways to do this. Some codes dictate other methods and don't like the bagged crete. Ask your code guy what he thinks is best.
Great thread, thanks for taking the time to give the detailed commentary. Looking forward to seeing it full
Thanks... it was built with 50 years in mind. My Dad has a conventional pole barn built in the early 1980s. It's a Morton construction that was made according to older code with "old school" pt wood and galv techniques. It is just starting to show signs of decay at the baseboard and a few posts. The tin still looks very good and all the interior lumber is 100%. It's nice to watch the lifespan of these style buildings--- learn where they're vulnerable, then try to prevent common issues.
[/QUOTE] I put some 57 stone on top of my crush n' run. Helps the crush n' run stay put and less messy when rain and snow are on the ground. Thanks for a great play-by-play post, it looks great!
Thinking a bit about your build today... Go 10ft on center with your posts for 30ft. Have your posts align so you can easily section off 10ft bays. Let me know what your code person says as I'm curious as to what is acceptable in other locations.
You should put a link to your build threads in your signature , oh ya and change this (install coming soon) Lopi Liberty Basement Install
That's one sweet wood shed! I bet anyone who see it will be jealous! Humm now time to fill it! A GTG at BuckthornBonnie's place?
