Made some progress today. I was too tired to take pics. It's dark now, so I will post up tomorrow. Slight changes, in that it won't be all one shed, but 3 10' wide bays. This is due to the slope the shed is built on. It's just easier this way. It still will hold 5 cords each bay.
I snapped this picture just before it started to rain here. The first deck is set, ready for the floor to be screwed down. The second deck in working on digging and leveling the deck block on the front left set, and once it is, then I can get the back left block set and leveled. Then go on to the two down slope blocks. I'll probably add a center block/ support on each of the decks.
At least one...maybe several, for the weight you are gonna put in there. You do the load calcs on this design plan?
Yes...and maybe the corner blocks scooched in toward the center some too...cantilever the corners a bit...that would gain some strength too...or could just add a center block instead. Sorry Horkn , not trying to be critical...just looks a bit light (to me) to hold 5 cords per...but then again I do tend to overbuild things ya know... Better to double check design now though...doing so later would have some extra suck factor if any re-enforcements were needed...
The lumber it's all 2x6 treated with the proper joist hangers. According to what I've read, it's well over built, especially with the 3/4" plywood on top. Using the corners of the deck blocks will keep the angles correct, by my logic at least. Yes, a center block will help, whether it's really needed or not. Cheap insurance. I've seen one built like this before, and it only had 2x4 stringers. I think the slope of the yard just accentuates it. The second and third bays are not as much of an angle, so I am hoping that by burying the up hill blocks, that the down hill blocks might be even or minimal adjustment.
You said its 10' wide and 8' deep, should hold ~5 cords each, right? 5 cords of Ash would be roughly 17, 500#...or about 230 PSF live/dead load combined (pretty high...decks are built to ~50 PSF) and with blocks only at the corners, those 4 perimeter boards are the ones carrying all that weight...actually, most of the load is being transferred to the front and rear 10' boards...I need to look up some span load charts. Plus, depending on your soil type, it could be it's only good for 2000 PSF under each pier...especially during the spring thaw/rains. I think I would put one in the middle of the front and rear...and maybe 2 under an additional full width cross beam under the center of each 10'x8' section....but hey, I'm no engineer...just play one on the internet. All advice given here within is refundable (for store credit) up to, and including, its full purchase price
According to this Maximum Span Recommended Calculator for Wood Joists and Rafters – West Coast Lumber Inspection Bureau a quick and dirty calculation (not knowing exactly what you bought for lumber) it shows support needed every 6', and that is with HALF your intended loading level (the max this calculator goes up to) so I'm guessing a proper calculation is gonna put you in the 3-4' span range.
Horkn, on engines I am with you!! I agree with brenndatomu on this one 2 by 6 supported every 10 feet to hold 5 cord?? Hel! No
Yeah, I'll be adding more supports/ blocking. The wood is SYP pressure treated. I have zero doubt about the wood structure, but I did have doubts about the blocking/ supports. This is all clay soil, it's like concrete. I do appreciate the double checking
Plus, if you did this ^ ^ ^ and the blocks were in from the corners, it would allow for the 3 tiers/sheds to all be tied together easier...at least at the floor level.
Like concrete when its dry...but the problem is when its wet...believe it or not, clay is at the bottom of the scale for footer support I think I would put a minimum of 9 pier blocks under each 10'x8' section. Soil Conditions For Deck Footings | Decks.com
Look at you...Might as well give him the fastener size and spacing for the edge and the field of the sheathing.
I would bury at least one of the corner support blocks and stack on top of it, or dig out a gravel pad to set them on. My wood stacks are on pallets fully supported by the ground and they still sink at least a couple inches. You're putting f-ton of weight in very little square footage...they might bury themselves....and probably not evenly. Clay or not, it will still settle. Agree with others, center supports are a must...if nothing else to spread the load on ground contact.
I don't nuttin 'bout all that...5# of 3" drywall screws and git 'r dun! And he can find his own space in the edge of a field for a sheath
Hmmm. That would also allow me to have the center shed/ bay to share the 4x4's. Since trying to buy 4x4's right now is not fun ( local Menards is out... Still) this will save money, headache, and tie it all together better. I read that too somewhere, but this area is not really wet ever. It will probably only stay dry, especially once a roof it over head. I'm adding 2 block mount/supports to each of the 10' front and back plus one in the center.
Progress pics from the other day. Notice the additional supports. I'm not done with the supports, but they definitely strengthened the whole structure. Also see that I moved the blocks and the entire 3 bays will all be joined together. The two outside bays will be 3/4" plywood top, and the center one will be topped with the 5/4 treated deck boards. I need to only buy a couple of 8' deck boards and I'll have enough.
