FYI: Most readily available PT wood (Big Box Chit) is not rated for ground contact (anymore), but a much better grade of PT products can still be sourced. It’s sometimes rated for “marine” applications.
The last posts I set I poured concrete around them and they rotted just as fast if not faster than no concrete. I even tapered the tops to shed water. Won't bother doing that again. Next round posts I set ( if I do ) will get crushed stone set around them instead. Pressure treated wood comes in ground contact and above ground. Home Depot is phasing out above ground and will only be stocking ground contact. Lowes supposedly will maintain stocking both grades of pressure treatment but is labelling their above ground stock as "not intended for ground contact". Ground contact used in both environs may be overkill for above ground use but it should eliminate people using the wrong product in/on/near the ground. It also simplifies yard stocking. Ground contact is usually about 10-15 cents more per foot than Above Ground. It really doesn't make sense to have both if Ground Contact is safe to use Above Ground. You can buy CopperCoat Green Below Ground Wood Preservative to treat your own wood . It absorbs better if the wood is nice and dry.
This should be a fairly straight forward lean-to addition...I'd go under your existing rain gutter and lag a ledger board to the buildings posts (and purlins, if they line up) You'll need to screw 3/4 plywood or 1 x material on the back of the ledger to space it out past the metal siding ribs. Hang some roof joists off the ledger using joist hangers, same on the headers at the lower end. I'd make the post spacing the same as what the building is...around here they make us dig a hole 3 x the diameter of the post, down 42", pour a 6" concrete pad, and your treated post sits right on the pad. Generally the hole is backfilled with the dirt that came out of it to begin with. Never known anyone to have post rot issues, if you used a good post to begin with, and I personally know of some buildings that have been up 40 years. I would buy at least the 6x6 post from a local lumberyard (not a big box store) they have better quality lumber in my experience...probably better treated posts too. When I built my firewood shed I called the county building dept to inquire if I needed a building permit to add a lean-to type shed onto my garage to be used for a wood shed...they said no. I still did not cheap out on the way I built it...want it to outlast me!
I used pressure treated 4x4s set in concrete a couple feet down. First made a gravel pad about 6” thick then set the post in and poured the concrete around it a couple inches above ground level so water runs off away from the post wood. The idea behind the gravel pad at the bottom of the post hole is so moisture does not get trapped in the would-be-cup formed by your concrete and can drain out, thus keeping the wood drier by giving water a way out and reducing rot. This point is a small but important detail that many who don’t do it will find actually causes the wood to rot because the water gets trapped in the cup formed by the concrete so the post just sits in water most of the time. This is why you need a gravel pad at the bottom of the hole not a concrete one. Oh, and one more thing...did I mention to use a gravel pad at the bottom of your post hole? But plans? Just design your own. You don’t need someone elses plans off the Internet unless you just want to explore different ideas. How to Set Fence Posts That Won't Rot
First thing you do is check your local property tax codes. Setting posts onto concrete piers is always better but that may make it a non temporary shed and you’ll be taxed for it. Built upon the ground there’s no tax, maybe. If I were to build one I’d pour piers and camoflauge them to look like it was sitting on blocks
Have you looked into that new stuff made of foam to set posts into the ground , it's a two part system, and supposed to be waterproof
This is along my lines of thinking, am not trying to make it last 50yrs. I won't be here in 10-15yrs, hec I might not be here in a year or 2. I also realize anything worth building is building right. How long did you get out of them before they started rotting? Cracks me up because there are tons of resources on setting posts and most of them all state doing the same way. Quikrete's website walks you through it the same exact way, put down 6" gravel, tamp it down, set post in concrete. Some recommended caulking the joint all around where concrete and post meet.
I'm not a fan of setting modern day treated lumber in concrete or dirt.. How about using a metal bracket system on top of your poured concrete ? bore a hole as required by code, some rock in the bottom, set in a sonotube, pour in you concrete, put in an anchor bolt before it sets up.... When it's cured, add his to hold your post...
Ask your town or reputable builder what is preferred in your area. You’ll love having a shed for sure.
That stuff is slick for setting fence posts - Not rated for top supported structures. I agree on mounting the wood above grade - the anchor you posted is not rated for roof supported structures rather deck posts that see almost entirely vertical loads. Standof post bases rated for structures get expensive pretty quick. This argument of buried posts vs. concrete is like an oil discussion I'm serious these are the only way I would put a wooden post in the ground regardless of backfill material Post Protector 4 in. x 4 in. x 42 in. In-ground Post Decay Protection-4442 - The Home Depot
Ok, so I think my plan now is treated 6x6 with a 6” concrete pad at 42”. Then fill with compacted soil and tamp down. May consider the post protectors but they are expensive and Lowe’s and HD don’t have in stock currently. As far as design and hanging joists leaning towards the hurricane hoist hanger things but need to sketch it out firsr. Thanks all!
I wonder if using some sort of foundation waterproofing treatment on the posts would help...from as simple as tar type sealer, to as fancy as some sort of self stick rubber membrane...