That must take a bit of effort to get level. Progress is great. Take this as constructive criticism from a hack, I've been told no PT purlins under metal roofing if that is the direction you're heading. Maybe just some tar paper as a barrier? Then again, I'm only a hack.
Hmmmm. Fasteners must be galvanized to be approved for treated lumber. The metal roofing will be galvanized. I've never heard of a problem with treated purlins and metal roofing but I guess time will tell. If it rusts off before I die, I'll use a barrier next time and wish I had originally.
I've been waiting for a good deal on sheet metal from CL. Got all the metal and ridge cap for $140. Didn't even have to cut it to length. It's new metal, some is dusty from being stored, a few scratches. Color is burnt slate. Good enough for me. If I'd have had to buy new it would have been non painted galvanized, cheaper. I could hear the thunder coming as I finished up. Pouring rain now. That should get the dust off.
Good job on this. I am certain you will be happy midwinter. Also good that the construction experts didn't beat you like they did on my build.
Love it. Just one observation about the roof. In high winds, wouldn't that possibly swing on your center beam?
Ahhh.... You're asking about the trusses rotating on the center beam/pole. The trusses are lagged to the pole top and bottom, six 3-1/2" lags per truss, 4 in the top and 2 in the bottom.
I bought it off CL. It was all new metal, $140 for all of it. $.35/sqft. New galvanized is $.50 sqft locally. I'm not sure what shingles cost these days.
When I redid my house roof I paid around $23/bundle (skid price) for architectural shingles which at 33.33 cu ft / bundle worked out to about $0.75/sq ft. iirc. I've done a lean-to shed with the corrugated panels and it was a lot faster and cheaper, especially with just purlins for support instead of plywood and more so with the roof just happening to need the same length panels as they came in ( no cutting ). Looks nice too.
