Wood moisture readings

So this should start some "hated" conversations......According to the National Firewood Association....

Also remember that it is possible for wood to be too dry, although not likely in any typical scenario. Wood that is too dry burns too intensely, using up all the available oxygen in the stove before the gaseous and airborne byproducts of combustion can be burned in the firebox. The result is increased smoke output. If there is, by chance, enough oxygen available, burning very dry wood results in a very hot fire that’s difficult to control and can warp and crack your stove and/or chimney.

Shoot for wood that’s between 15 -20% MC for the best results.

 

Thank you for your service.

 

No matter how old the wood the lowest readings I get are about 15% more or less so pretty much what you are finding, depending on the wood and the condition when cut it can be 15% in as little as 3 months (dead elm is a good example).
A good part of the year I build two fires in one day from a cold stove, otherwise the house gets too warm and believe me 15% (in the middle of a fresh split) is more then dry enough for quick starts.
"As the MC of wood drops below the FSP, it will continue to lose moisture until it eventually stabilizes at a value that is commensurate with the surrounding moisture in the air. This is known as the point of equilibrium moisture content, or simply EMC. The EMC will change based upon the fluctuating temperature and relative humidity of the surrounding air"

 

Because of the EMC few will see wood too dry, I guess it could happen is some hot dry climates otherwise it usually happens with kiln dried wood.

 

I have seen the stove go crazy with wood that had a little punk in it, secondaries look like blow torches for a short period of time but never with good wood no matter the age.

 

Let me know when you boys reach EMC squared. It's a fire I don't want to miss out on!

 

Nope not at all, but some new to the scene and or people with storage limitations might want to know and where they stand so I think it could be a useful tool for many. All the talk of dry wood for the EPA stove made me wonder how dry my wood was, it's a fun toy.
I will burn wood that is a lot less then 3 years old if it is 15% or so as I see no reason to leave it sit for any length of time.

 

It comes from the the secondary tubes not being able to keep up with the extra gases, like I said before I doubt it happens under most (normal) conditions.

 

Exactly Oldspark.....rarely happens unless in a very low humidity environment.....but in other areas where very humid...they may never get below 20%....so the moisture meter always seems the best way to burn and not be afraid of a chimney fire....I sell only firewood at state parks so I just care that it is dry enough for the campers to get started and keep burning so once it is below about 24% I can sell it

 

Yep for sure, I pizzed off some people the last time the topic came up.
Edit-I am still not sure why or how that happened.

 

The only time I use a mm is when i find some wood on the side of the road that seems dry. Just wanna know if it goes in this years pile or next. Havent gotten to the three year point yet. But trying!!!

 

+1

 

True story! When I herniated a disk in my back in 2010 and had surgery in 2011 I had no worries that I would have seasoned wood.

 

Just top covered. Many do it this way. This wood is close to burnable, but 1 more season and it will be good. There's no problem, that wood just needs 4 years CSS'd.

If it were in a big pile, and not just top covered, yes. That's a problem.

This stuff was cut after the leaves were out in early summer. So that would add to the MC of the wood, vs if it were cut when the tree is dormant in winter. I've seen enough proof to that theory, which will save a full summer of drying time if you can do it.