If that's the case like Dave asked, you could shim the hinge side toward the latch side. Get the gap down to 1/8-3/16" and it'll seal better. If not, it needs a new seal
Thought I would update, entry way has shifted enough so the doorknob and deadbolt both work now, but still need to either shim or likely an added layer of weather stripping (take it off in the summer). Sliding door wall has more foam, shrink plastic, and I put an electric oil heater by my desk, much better What also helped ALOT is WWW finally gutted and insulated the wind tunnel laundry room, it was bad enough that it making the other two drafts even worse. I think the laundry room was part of the 1980 addition which includes the room in my first pic. They were all done with scraps, the paneling was hilarious, cuts were off an inch or two in different spots with the fiberglass poking out and there's something wrong with the roof, so I literally had dirt, dust, snow, and rain blowing through the walls or out of the ceiling. Paneling and insulation gone, you could see daylight through gaps in the siding The roof has to wait til summer but its sealed up for now. Also, with the longer hoses (LodgedTree ) the machines are side by side now, much more room for me to move around and the washer opens the correct way now (door is NOT reversible).
Hi Dave,, I took the pic from just outside the doorway into the laundry room, are you seeing the door casing? (It was previously an exterior wall). Or is it the insulation he put in all over including the ceiling? He used 3" foam from a flat roof tear off and expanding foam. He says its called polyisocyanurate. Or what's catching your interest in the pic?
Chaz , I thought you'd get a kick out of this. It's my laundry room. Roof leak finally fixed 5 years later, the metal roof here was laid over 3 additions and the existing roof of 1/2 of the orig house, the leak (side panel flashing installed incorrectly) is 15' away over our bedroom, it was coming in there and rolling down previous roof and dumping in the laundry room. Atleast the walls are sealed up now, except it's clear 1/2 the draft is from those old windows. Anyway I thought you'd appreciate the construction
Yeah, the construction method looks very familiar. We had some ice damming on the back of the house some years ago.. It leaked in, ran across the flat roof shingling and then into the bedroom. Just above Chazsbetterhalf side of the bed. @ 4AM So a friend and I ripped off shingles, put down an extensive layer of ice guard, and new shingles. One of the reasons I wanted a metal roof.
Truth is this home became fully insured when we purchased it, yes, it was inspected. 3 woodstoves and an ancient wall furnace. Wall furnace lines were kinked copper flex, easy decision for us to disconnect it. I called a chimney sweep during the long period living between homes before ours sold and he came out and swept and in inspected all 3 and we were good (this after our home fully insured during purchase a year before). Next year during remodel and learning here after pulling the fireplace insert the main stove was a slammer and chimney was more than 1/2 choked with creosote chunks on the walls. I had trouble with it but blamed it on the extra 3 cords we had to buy after burning through almost 8 cords in this record cold year, -37* F but it was the clogged chimney and and all anything the sweep brought down now sitting on top of the BK King. Thank God we did not have a fire!! It took my husband several weekends running a chain attacement to break it out without hurting the clay liner. GOTTER DONE! Creosote gone and insulated liner in, we are safe. Buyer beware, no codes in many places. Stay safe peeps!
We are venting the dryer again. 3rd time between moving the dryer and insulating the room etc. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on this vent, after researching the last couple weeks it seems like the best option I've come across for the high winds out here. Any ideas for less expensive? It's RCC 4S, both cap and damper one, ~ $65 HVACQuick - Seiho RCA and RCC Series Stainless Steel Dryer Vent Caps
Is it a gas dryer? 99 has an electric dryer and the exhaust has been discharged into the basement since the 90's! But then, we hardly even use it. Looks like a termination for B-vent gas appliance but only has a backdraft damper in it. What have you used up until now?
It is an electric dryer. It's been vented twice through the wall to outside using a common vent from ACE. Now it's hooked up to a not so effective indoor vent. It uses water in the drawer below and that evaporates almost overnight.
I was looking at the top left The 1-800 tech service said the RCC would do better in the high winds. Great if the damper is blown shut, except, when I'm actually running a load and the wind keeps it shut. PS, our dryer at our previous home was vented into our unfinished basement, worked great, just cleaned the pantyhose filter often.
With that warm air blowing over the water you can expect it to evaporate quickly. I think the water in it is designed to trap the lint and prevent it from flying around the home interior.
The high winds would be a factor to consider in venting anything out there in Wy! When we used to vent dryers, we would use aluminum pipe with taped joints....NEVER screws or rivets as those would catch the lint as it passes through the pipe. The termination was always a backdraft dampered either aluminum or plastic.
Exactly why It's getting vented again! Foregoing keeping heat and moisture we need here in the cold months and instead sending it out the wall because of the darned incessant microscopic lint! Agreed, if we stay here I'd like to look into the plumbing, kitchen, and bath vents too, getting a hook or upside down U. You'd laugh, the water line in the toilets goes up and down during gusts from suction and I know there's a draft through the bathroom vents. What would be nice is a manual adjust damper like in a wood stove exhaust pipe, all the dryer dampers are automatic swing. Suppose I could buy a gas B vent termination and a damper for less than $65?
How about something like this? It has a cover over the flap, comes in sevre3al colors, and is a whole lot cheaper. I have one that is more like the style below that is facing the prevailing winds and it does an excellent job of keeping the cold air out while letting warm air out when it is supposed to. I put it on 1.5 years ago and couldn't beleive how warm the flex pipe between it and the dryer stays (and the dryer too) compared to the old style that used to be there. Of course my winds only occassionally hit 40-60 mph, so guessing the one above would be better for you
either of those need to be cleaned at least once a year as lint does build up and jams the works. For what ever reason if they get a lot sun they get very brittle, and one other thing those dryer sheets do not help as far as build up of small particles in the hinges areas. Stuff acts like glue.
I have not seen a damper for B-vent. Doesn't mean they don't exist, just I don't know about them. But again, anything that is in the flow of dryer exhaust will cause it to gather lint build up. Houses have been lost to fires because of dryer lint build up in the venting and or at the termination point.
Every plastic flap vent I've owned got brittle and cracked, warped in the heat or the spring mechanism in the flapper got weak in very little time. I was always replacing them. The last one we had before we went to a indoor bucket of water type was a shuttle type: which was aesy to take apart to keep clean. The ss one looks nice but if it can't be cleaned easy it is worthless, IMO. Dumping into a water bucket is OK if you don't use the drier much but a house full of kids/peoples it probably isn't practical as the humidity level in the house could climb to unlivable heights.
