Will my chimney brackets work?

What TD said, and if you can reach the middle of the diagonal's can you twist or flex them with easily?

 

1/2" emt, conduit, is cheap and easy, squeeze the ends flat and attach.

 

This is the bracket that comes with the through-the-wall kit. The instructions manual states it will hold 38 feet of chimney.

 

The only advantage i see with that is the side's are solid and would resist twisting.

How many feet are you putting up?

 

I am not sure; I have looked at some stove instructions that state to get a good draw you need 11 to 15 feet of chimney. I also read where you need to be a certain height above an area 10 feet horizontally from the chimney. I have two-three foot sections, one-two foot section and two one-foot sections; one of the one foot sections is for the clean out at the tee. I was going to build with what I have now and add more sections if I need to increase the height.

 

Brace it from the top and use the left n right side brackets that came with the kit ,agenst the house for side gussets at the bottom

 

My angle is steeper than the side plates that came with the kit. Since I had to come out further from the wall than the bracket that came with the kit, it meant that my angle changed. Tractor Supply Co had some diamond plate that I could use; not sure of the gauge.

 

this one says 8" up to 60' tall
Selkirk 208430 Sure Temp Chimney Pipe Wall Support Kit

 

sixty feet of 6" pipe would 360 lbs.

(8" would be about 25% more...450 lbs?)

 

I'm not saying hook em to the angled pieces ,the left n right side brackets that came with the kit should fit against,the house, attached to the bottom of the horizontal pieces you have coming out

 

Sure temp might be different, my chimney is Selkirk Supervent.

 

Not really possible to do that, I went to the centre of the wall, cut the stud out that was in the way, etc.

 

Well then, just use those pieces of metal ,from the left n right side brackets that came with the kit , cut n bend or whatever ,for your gussets

 

You could also put the left n right side brackets that came with the kit ,on the top against the house ,there is framing up there to attach it to right

 

Yup, exactly. Flip those legs up to the top to hang the whole deal...and some side supports...gooder to go!

That slotted angle isn't really that strong when it comes to being used in the manner that it is now. The angle will start to open up (go past 90*) and then the whole deal just folds right up. Non perforated would have been a bit stronger...
Those factory brackets even though sheet metal, would be much stronger just due to the design...would make me real nervous putting 50' of pipe on top of it though!

 

That may be possible but I think the top brace should be from the outer edge of the triangle to some point further up the wall. Since the chimney is going to be sitting out further from the wall, there is an increased moment arm.

 

No, I am going to leave the bottom and add additional at the top and I think my bracket will support more than the chimney that I will build.

 

I would have went with angle iron but it is not cheap. Plus, it would have been better to have it welded and there is a big cost when you get custom welding done. Every day I miss my friend that could do all this; he was a good man and some crazy drughead had to kill him.

 

My manual that came with them said 38 feet; which would be around 228 lbs.

 

That works too.

Sorry to hear about your friend.
Welding is strong but it can also be too rigid sometimes (can crack over time if things flex around)...no reason that bolting together won't work just fine. Would have to drill your own holes in regular angle though...

 

I'm saying, do both, put top brace from the outer edge of the triangle to some point further up and put the brackets on the top also