Now if they just make one you can run over with the bulldozer or skidder. It is a nice gadget but it looks like it is not durable. Why is everything made out of plastic? I will stick with my measure stick, it cost me nothing and if it breaks there is another one in the woods.
Not to long after it got changed from that 20 to a 16 but the 20 hangs on a nail waiting for action someday
Bravo Steve That looks great. I think falling somewhere between "a work of art" and practicality is the answer.
I think if my stack(s) were more front & centre like MMfrompa's are, I'd take a little more care. But as it is...
I think there is a cow on PEI, up in Canukistan, who really likes his mingo marker. Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk
I like mine 18 inches plus or minus an inch or two. I use the eighteen inch bar on my husky 353. If I am using my bigger saw with the 20 or 24 inch bar, I still use the husky to make my 18 inch marks and then let the chips fly with the echo. Guessing close seems to get me way off sometimes and using the 20 and 24 inch bars seem to mess me up too. I assume, at least in my mind, the whole purpose for being particular is what works best for the stove !!!
Same for me, I just have an 18" mark on my bars (or use an 18" bar) and hold the saw over the log, quick and easy. Plus it's easy to avoid notty pieces and crochets, and you don't need extra tools.
My furnace is 5' deep, splitter will take a 26" log. All wood cut to 24". I use a piece of 3/8 threaded rod through the hole on the bar of my 192T saw. Tip the tree, limb it, mark every 24" with an X at 10'. Cut to 10' length, load the trailer & bring to log yard & dump. Buck on the 2' marks & split & stack. Makes handling the wood from start to finish much easier. Everything is designed around a 2' length. Racks, wheelbarrow box etc. If I have to make 16" firewood for someone else, I just adjust the marking bar & go.
No to the Mingo. I think it's an unnecessary expense. I like all my firewood cut to 20" and I use a 19-1/2" long piece of 1/2" PVC conduit, painted bright blue for visibility, and a piece of sidewalk chalk. Why 19-1/2"? The chalk is about an inch in diameter and I can just hold the chalk on the end of the conduit and swipe a mark. Voila - 20". I can scoot right down the log nice and quick, and I can also stop and start easily if I want to cut around a large knot or crotch piece and pick up again on the other side. Makes my splits more consistent. I save the stuff I cut around for the uglies pile.
I would use Mingo, but no correct wheel size. I cut at 21". Current stove will fit a 24", but I find 21 to be what I like. I use a tape and paint or hatchet to mark logs. If I measure, I can cut out the knots and crotches and still end up with lengths I want. Rather than splitting a knotty piece and then putting in the azzhole pile, I just cut the knot out completely before splitting (or try to). Just started doing this method last year and will likely continue forwards.
I use the Mingo cause I am all over the place trying to cut wood at 12". Helps keep things consistent.
This is what I use to get somewhat uniform cuts. I like 16” because they will fit N/S or E/W in the stove; and 16x3=48” which makes it easy to measure cords. The shop instructor made at the school I teach at made this for me (based on my design). It’s 15” long. That gives me an inch not to smash it with the hatchet! (Which is “hit or miss”, as you can see in the pics) Works pretty good. I had thought about putting a 16” mark on my 20” Bar, but I figured it would wear off. If I try to eyeball it I get a lot of 14” cuts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
