Whitfield Advantage II T C Freestanding smoke smell in room

It looks to me like the gasket direct between the motor plate & the fan shroud is new (very white in color). However, the one that seals the fan shroud to the stove exhaust system (behind the fan with the 2 nuts showing) looks older, and maybe I see a piece missing??? That gasket should be checked and possibly replaced. Snowy probably will know where to get those.

 

The gasket where the fan adapter housing bolts to the stove does not worry me at this point.
That area runs under a partial vacuum and if anything would allow air to be sucked in.

 

Just so the OP knows where we're talking about.

 

Once you get the exhaust van off snap a piccy or two of the fan housing and up into that rear passage...(Where the little damper plate slides)

Check to the rear of the fan housing looking into the vent pipe to see if there is an accumulation of ash. (The rear passage on these stoves is rather rough and ash can/does collect in there)
(You can see up the rear passage all the way across the stove..the two large openings behind the baffles lead directly into the rear passage...the entire passage system is rough right angle corners and is prone to clogging up)
You mentioned the stove was black inside???? Glass getting really dirty sooty black ???

Thanks, but I am getting confused. Isn't the fan the big grey thing? If I remove the bolts from the motor that is attached to it, will that allow me to move the fan so I can see into the passages?

 

Also, I just siliconed the hell out of it. To remove the fan I would need to cut through all the silicone?

 

No
Just Remove the 6 nuts
The fan motor and plate will come right off leaving a big gaping opening.

No need to cut any silicone.


The fan blade is on the back side of the plate when you pull the motor assembly off the fan housing (Lighter silver color)

Once you get the fan/motor off you can see in the housing.

The draft plate slide is towards the front of the stove from the fan motor opening.

OPEN THE SLIDE UP (PULL OUT) To give you full access to the rear exhaust passage.
The entire rear passage needs to be clean and free from any clogs.

Use a long bottle brush to snake up into the passage and dislodge any clogs of ash.

Once you remove the fan/motor (6 nuts) get some well lit pix up into the passage please.

Do run the exhaust fan and observe the fan and speed.

Careful that the rotating fan does not hit anything and damage the fan while you observe.

Another thing...
Where the vent pipe attaches to the little aluminum adapter at the rear of the stove.....
It is important that the area between the outer pipe jacket and the inner stainless steel liner be sealed as well as where the pipe fits over the aluminum adapter.

This type of vent pipe WILL LEAK internally at the connections and smoke can seep back through the pipe and leak at the rear terminus is not silicone'd well...

I have fought this issue a few times.

 

Here is the exhaust blower/fan assembly
This what you will get when you remove the 6 nuts

 

Robyn, be very careful while removing the motor/fan unit Snowy shows above.....unless you have a spare gasket. A putty knife might come in handy to gently slide between motor & gasket so it doesn't rip. If it was replaced by the "service" person, then it probably will still be in good shape & come off pretty easily.

Once you get the fan assembly out, look inside the housing ("big grey thing")......you need to see if there's any accumulation of ash in there. A small mirror & flashlight might help. Check in all directions, but especially in toward the stove, and towards the exhaust pipe.

 

OK, removed the fan, cleaned out in both directions. The repair guy had already cleaned the horizontal pipe run when he removed and cleaned the fan so they both seemed pretty clean. I am not sure if he cleaned toward the draft plate but there wasn't much there. The fan seems to be running at a constant speed. I broke the gasket so have to go get a new one. Here are pictures of the fan after I cleaned it off, the ash before and the ash after cleaning.

I already siliconed where the vent pipe attaches to the adapter in the rear of the stove so I should be OK there.

How do I know if the fan is running at the speed it should and pulling the correct amount of CFMs?

 

Only way is if you had something to measure RPM. In general, when it's running out of the stove, it blows a LOT of air around. Be careful if you decide to make a temp. power cord.....insulate ends before plugging it in wall socket (electrical tape is your friend).
This is the power cord I made to test stove motors...an old lamp cord w/ connectors attached:

 

Robyn
Let the fan run for a few minutes...at least 5 and see wassssssup.

Does your fire get very lively once its lit and burning for a few minutes ????

Picture please.
A lazy wobbly fire is a sign that the air is not moving well

 

How many RPMs should I be looking for? My mechanic friend may be able to test this for me. Never mind, I found the sticker. 3000 RPM

 

I was hoping to test the fan before I reinstall it.

 

This u-tube video talks about a "spin test". My fan blades stopped spinning in about 5 seconds when I tried this. According to this video, they should spin for a long time before slowing down. Is that a good test? Should I try more oil before buying a new one?

 

This is our member, don222.

5 seconds sounds short. Try holding the oil ports so they're facing straight up, and put 3-4 more drops of light oil (regular 3 in 1 will work in a pinch...do NOT use car oil). Spin before oil, and after to see if any improvement.

 

The fan is around 10 years old and since I never took it apart before and cleaned it, I am assuming it is shot so rather than waste my time putting it back in only to find I have the same problems, I am going to replace it. Next problem - the part number on the existing combustion blower motor is 12026010 but the manual says 12156009! The existing motor is .95 aps and 3000 rpm. My stove is an Advantage II-T C manufactured by Lenox according to the sticker. I can't find the manufacture date . Should I go with the existing p/n or the p/n in the manual? Any suggestions for good aftermarket options if I can't find the OEM part? Also, should I replace the housing or just the fan and motor?

 

The RPM is not the big issue.

Checking the voltage across the two wires that go to the fan is the best way to test.
On the #1 heat setting you should see 70 volts and on 5 about 107 volts
Stove running and fan on.

If the voltage is goofy then the issue is in the control board.

Use a volt meter and back probe the two wires on the motor.

If with the thing running you see voltage wandering about then there is an issue.

 

There are several motors that will work fine.

Don 222 can help with a fresh motor..

 

Just replace what you took off.

The housing will last for decades

Depending if you can get the fan off the shaft easily all you need is the motor.

If the fan turns out to be a PITA to get off then a motor, plate and fan assembly.