Which way to face new stove location installation?

I would advise against raising the hearth. Raise the stove, instead. A raised hearth could prevent you or the next homeowner from removing existing stove to install another stove down the road.

However, I agree with not wanting to bend and/or squat.

EDIT:
When I made this post I had somehow missed the part about getting the higher base and using bricks.

 

Just in case the angled thimble was still a consideration…

I would also be willing to wager that the links I provided to an angled thimble would more than satisfy needing 3ft of horizontal stove pipe…if that’s still a consideration.

They’re sort of ugly to me, but I don’t think their performance enhancements can be argued against with a thimble install…as it’s as near a straight off the stove an up through the roof install as one can attain with a thimble.

 

You talking stovepipe, or chimney pipe? Never seen stovepipe that screws together.
And to Hoytman s point...I agree with maximizing 45* angles, and minimizing 90's/horizontal pipe whenever possible, just not sure if BK is cool with that, or if they would still insist on 3' initial rise...

 

Are you talking about 3ft of vertical rise off if the stove before a horizontal? I would agree.

However, we all know straight off the stove vertical is fine…and I personally can’t see anything wrong with a shorter amount of vertical going into a 30degree thimble…heck it’s near vertical anyway and those thimbles have been available for quite a few years now that I feel BK would have already addressed them if there was a problem…they likely would have already specified what to use or not use with them. Not only are they better than using a 90, as well as using 45’s, but they further eliminate the horizontal run that even a 45 can do, allowing for much closer-to-wall installs…which I’m sure most understand.

Myself, I consider the angled wall thimble to as close replicate a totally vertical install that I myself wouldn’t be concerned with draft, or not installing according to that “3ft straight before bend” written in the BK manual. What others think and decide is up to them.

You could be right though. BK might still insist on 3 ft of vertical…if for no other reason but legal protection. Of course, making assumptions is just that…making assumptions.

 

At any rate I’m sure you’ll be fine however you get it installed, else you wouldn’t be here as a moderator.

 

Big RED flags!!

Had a hard time following your post, but people need to make things right. Stop dealing with SIL if he can’t remember his own name.

Above all, be polite, but stand firm and demand the service you expect, or else withhold funds. Call credit card company if you have to and have them intervene. Don’t be afraid to shop another dealer.

 

So you paid to have a pedestal, and now they want another $44o to order something that they screwed up? Yeah, I don't think so Jim...

 

Don’t worry about raising a stink. Not saying you should raise a stink, but to be fair, apparently their not worried about it either. Just try to get them to work with you.

If the stove was ordered with a pedestal, then that is what you should get…especially if you already paid for it.

If they only had legs, and you paid for those, then tell them to consider that as half down payment for the pedestal and that when pedestal arrives you’ll pay the difference and return the legs.

That’s the least they should do for your troubles. You could always opt to keep the legs having paid for both. Later if you sold it the price would be higher because you have both.


Hold the phone!!!

Wait just a cotton pick’n minute!!

Isn’t that pedestal supposed to have an ash drawer in it? If so, then that means the inside of the stove is also different, having an ash dump, from that of just a stove with legs…which has no ash pan.

 

I was thinking of a BK King 40 and/or Princess models with the big base. Is one of those what you ordered? If so, you’re dealings with the SIL need to be dealt with of the owner pronto. Not good!

Perhaps it’s just a case of removing some bricks to expose the ash dump, but you’ll need everything, all the parts plus the base you ordered to make the conversion…let alone possibly removing the stove while in use to swap it all out.

 

I figured maybe BK would make a removable plate, but you’ll still need everything for the conversion. Your luck seems about as good as mine. If it weren’t for bad luck I wouldn’t have any.

 

I bet a fair $ that a pipe damper will never be required. With the venting 90's you're far more likely to be adding chimney length to improve/induce draft.
Hope you get the order/delivered product issues resolved!

 

I don’t think anyone in this conversation disagrees with you about him not needing to use a damper, or needing to add additional pipe to offset the 45’s or 90’s.

The thermostat on BK stoves, or a bi-metallic thermostat on any stove really, is remarkable at running the stove.

Personal opinion here…
Whether it’s used or not, always…always install a pipe damper in the stove pipe. No rule or law saying it must be used. It can be left open and with todays SootEater cleaning rods can be cleaned right through and past the damper from below.

Whomever started this trend of not recommending to install a pipe damper should really rethink such a recommendation.

Again, no one is saying that they are needed.

Men I used to know, some would be over 100 years old and long since gone on to meet their maker, all of them told me to always install a pipe damper. I consider their words as words of wisdom in spite of modern stove design.

Now some in modern times using modern stoves say they’re not needed. Indeed, that may be true with modern stove design…but that same modern stove design, unlike the better pre-epa stoves of the day that could be totally shut down if the situation arose, the modern stoves are designed to NOT be fully air tight. That is, there’s no control to fully close off secondary air and often even primary air and the air wash…which means there’s always a supply of incoming air. So in an emergency situation your only help in an emergency situation is the stove pipe damper to further slow the stove draft.

I believe stove designers and manufacturers, as well as dealers, and anyone else promoting not needing a stove pipe damper have done a disservice to the public by removing the option of a safety device, if nothing else.

Conversely, using a pipe damper in the wrong stove at the wrong time can also present a safety issue by helping creosote to accumulate.

Education is the answer…informing people that the pipe damper isn’t to be feared, rather learn when and how to use it, if at all, but if nothing else leave it alone and open until an emergency arises.

I say this all the time…
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.