Which Pellet Stove Ash Vac do you have and what do you like about it?

I think lots of people are overthinking the problem.The only reason to own an ash vac is because you do not,or cannot have the time to wait for the stove to completely cool down.A tech like Don needs an ash vac.The rest of most of us can use a reg shop vac,with a drywall dust,fine dust bag,as we can afford to let the stove cool completely.Just my 2 cents.

 

$25 = 5 gal / 2HP Shop Vac from WallyWorld on sale, $12 HEPA filter cartridge from Amazon, $10 / 3 ea. fine dust bags here.

*HEPA filter is only to help save the Shop Vac motor - fine stove ash has killed (2) Shop Vacs here in 3 years.. On year 2 w/ current Vac, w/ HEPA filter installed / using fine dust bags.

 

Hello
Here is the owner's manual to the new Power Smith PAVC102
Nice setup and easy clean secondary filter, I just blow it out with the air compressor.
See manual

 

I got a Powersmith several years ago on sale for about $70. Should have saved my money as it didn't have very much suction and the motor burned out after just 1 season. I now have a Shopvac ash vacuum (bought for $90 a couple of years ago - have seen on sale for $75). It has much better suction and obviously has lasted more than a year.

When I haven't had an ash vac, I used a small regular shop vac and that worked well. I heat solely by pellets so don't like my stoves to go completely cold in January and February (or when it is windy and in the 20's) as the house gets cold quickly. And, just for general peace of mind since even when I can allow the stoves to go cold, I have found live sparks/coals in the ash pan.

 

Hi
Good deal.
Now that I am using Noil (No Oil) the pellet stove heat does more! It needs to be clean!
BTW if I put the DHW tank say 2 inches from the pellet stove, then how high could I get the water temperature inside the tank overnight?
Has anyone tried that?
See
EcoSmart 27kw IHW installation - any tips?
Merry Xmass

 

You probably know this already Don, but you really should be using a (separate) heat storage loop / heat exchanger between your (primary) domestic <-> and secondary heat source(s) to heat domestic hot water.

"Forcing" heat onto equipment not rated and/or designed for primary DHW use - is a "risk" for failure.

 

Yes
Running a PEX loop in front of the pellet stove maybe the best way?
So just add to the Pex going into the tank from the old boiler and run it in front of the pellet stove and switch on the circulator when the pellet stove is on?
Correct?

This would also do the trick!

 

No.. Really need to use Copper, not PEX, for the secondary heat exchange interface. At least a good section of sweated (not slip-fitted) Copper, in any case.

The PEX can be hooked up of course: but allow 6" - 12" of copper inlet/outlet to avoid expansion/contraction "shock" to the PEX fittings.

Using a separate air -> to water exchange unit (aka: reverse radiator) w/ the hot air ducted -> directed from the pellet stove to that unit, and plumbed in-line w/ the SuperStor tank 'secondary' circulation loop would really be the best way.

A proper expansion tank / pressure relief valve, etc. should also be plumbed into the SuperStor 'secondary' heat loop as well.

* I'm all for experimenting Don, but would advise proceeding w/ all due caution, and make sure any (secondary) heating is on a separate 'secondary' loop - with a controlled ' single point of failure '. ... You want to be able to quickly switch any secondary heat loop out of the (primary) circuit, in case of failure.

*I am not a plumber (by any means), maybe the folks over on the FHC boiler forum can offer better insight as to the "best" way to proceed.

Just don't want to see you have any DHW issues, is all.

Kind Regards, Rob

 

Yes Thanks, I understand.
I am really not looking for the pellet stove to heat the water to 140 Degrees like the crosslink conversion kit
Crosslink conversions

Since I just installed the On Demand Electric, I just want to give the SuperStor tank a little overnight boost.

 

Hi Don,

Without knowing (where) the SuperStor tank is installed in relation to the Electric Tankless unit, it's tough to say ..

But if storing / pre-heating water -> going into the Tankless wall unit - in that case, an air -> water exchange unit (either a "radiator" or modified "sidewinder" loop) running on the SuperStor's indirect loop side would be the way to go.. Won't be nearly as efficient as direct-heating the water though.

A cross-link kit, while $$$ up-front (and if available for the stove in question), may be worth looking into - the cost savings vs. electric over a 24-36 month time frame may justify the cost of the kit (and controls) for the second (isolated) heat loop.

When I was looking into doing something similar last year: the return on investment was calculated at approx. 30 months, namely the savings in electric cost ($65 / mo.) for the electric hot water heater, vs. kit cost, pump, fittings, etc. Since Eversource has raised the electric rates since then, the "break even" would likely be sooner.

 

The SuperStore is right next to the EcoSmart Panel.

Since normally we do not run the pellet stove in the summer, switching back to the electric would be the cheapest way for the summer.
Did you factor that into the savings?

At the current oil prices I am paying approx $75 per month but oil can go way up again so I want an alternative. Electric rates in our area are not very expensive so I know the infrastructure for the electrical was expensive, it is a one time cost. But that is why it is hard to change because not able to gain in a lot of savings so payback takes a long time. I just do not want any dependency on fossil fuels or foreign oil.

 

No, I had tested a (solar water loop) for the Boiler Buddy 30 gal. secondary zone mixing tank here to replace the (wood) heat source in summer months. It actually worked pretty good w/ 120' ft of 1.25" black poly water well pipe laid out on the south side of the lawn, nothing else solar-wise was used. Brought the water temp from low 40's, to mid 80's, in the tank on a typical sunny day.

I still need to finish a build on a sidewinder exchange unit I had started to interface w/ the (cold water feed to Hot Water heater) on the primary system.

I hear you about depending on fuel oil - the more options you have available, the better. That's what 'motivated' us to install the pellet stove here 4 years ago, this week.

 

Your DHW tank is probably pretty well insulated, so direct heating (without using a loop/coil), probably produce much gain - or at least noticeable gain. In the deep of winter, when my cellar dweller is running 24/7, I pretty much have "on demand" hot water because the water in the pipes running across the ceiling is already at 75-80* (ir more - maybe I'll have to take a reading next month), so it feels at least luke warm coming out of the faucet. The kitchen sink is just above the DWH tank, so it doesn't take much time even when the basement is cold. But the bathroom water , which runs right next to the garage, doesn't have to be run before I start getting warmish water and the hot water from the tank doesn't have to warm up the pipes - so the shower water gets to a nice soothing temperature very quickly.

 

Snow Joe 4.8-Gallon Ash Vacuum ASHJ201

I have this SnowJoe. I think I paid about $50 for it on Amazon. Works good for my weekly cleanings. I have to blow the filter out with compressed air every few cleanings.

I find that it's best to only use the vacuum for what needs to be vacuumed out. Most of the time, I prop the hose up in the firebox an use an old paint brush to clean the inside and let the ash fall into the ash pan. Having the vac inside the firebox helps keep any dust from getting into the room.

The only area this vac isn't good at cleaning is those small openings down low in the firebox. Of course, I can't remember what they're called on the GCI60; you have to move a cover to get to each one. The hose and attachment on the vac are too large to get in there.

 

I use the built in vacuum system and then only to catch the dust while I use a paint brush ( Buy the el cheapo 29 cent ones by the handful) to sweep the ash into the ash pan.

After the manual cleaning I will catch the last little bits of ash with the built in..

The big built in has a huge canister and the vortec action puts the dust in the bin and any left overs go outside via the vent.

Nothing comes back to the rooms/house

ALWAYS CLEAN THE STOVES WHEN COLD

Setting the canister of dust on fire would not be cool at all...

 

We use our 6-1/2 horse Ridgid vacuum to unload the shells from the Dumpster and put them in the 55 gallon barrels.

That beast really SUX

 

Yup.. mine is around 25' away, so there is quite a bit of "warm" water in there..

Dan

 

PowerSmith ash vac is $59 on Amazon. As cheap as I've ever seen it...