What's the best 2-stroke oil?

Clems got it ............... 32:1 up to 125cc, then 40:1 above 125cc

 

I am really liking those 9's with the R50
The Super has a 7 for deposits ........... glad I only got the R50 from them to try, although the Super is 100% bio-degradeable

 

Yeah the super will burn dirty if it's not run in a saw that's used hard enough to get hot and burn it. People milling have no problems but some that idle a lot have a nasty piston top. R50 is good for up to 10% only and the super will work with any fuel you can buy.

 

I talked with their tech support and it can be used down to -54°.

 

Hey mopar,

I didn't read the whole thread but I will send you a bottle of sabre pro if you would like to try it.

I've never used it but I have a dealer close by and he gave me a bottle to try. Just haven't got to it yet.

Btw, R50 is the schizz, nothing smells as good. There's no mistake when you're burning klotz. I've had the same experience as Mike, super techniplate leaves some carbon if not used at higher sustained rpm.
R50, nice and clean. It's all I use unless it's really cold. Then I just stay inside

Let me know about the amsoil. I also have a bottle of husky xp oil if you or anyone else wants it. I can't stand the smell of that stuff, it's nasty even at 50:1. I vote for the klotz. I've never replaced any top ends or even re-ringed any pistons. Good stuff there.

 

Hi sky XP just smells like two stroke oil to me

 

Stihl ultra stinks. Lucas smells soooo much better.

 

Thanks for the offer !
Looks like I wont be mixing anything for a little while, got about 2 feet of snow where I am. More coming this weekend. I refuse to use a chainsaw, and wont be running any bikes until the snow goes down. Already had a few instances with a saw and slippery snow, so lessons learned here, its better to wait it out and be called a sissy. Don't get me wrong, if I absolutely MUST cut some wood, it will get done, but unless its a dire situation, the saws are hanging without bars.

I didn't even consider Sabre Pro due to it not showing up on Amazon ........... but if you want me to try some, I am sure that by the time I have tried the rest of the oils I have, I will also get some Sabre Pro. If you haven't tried it yet, I would feel bad taking yours, but I do appreciate the generous offer.

 

Super is off the table for me.
My saws get used more for felling and bucking than for firewood duty, and I am usually the only one running a saw when doing side work. I keep my cutting area fairly clean and that means setting the saw down a lot while its idling.


While it was snowing, I peeked into one of my engines that was run with BelRay. No arguing the oil that is everywhere, but the lean conditions on a few motors (due to non-adjustable carbs) that were run with it has also moved it off the table for me. I will finish what I have and never purchase it again. This is progress for me, as I initially thought that I would be using H1R exclusively. Other downsides are that it changed the color of my very cool looking blue VP to more like doodoo brown, and it doesn't smell like VP anymore. Also, you cant just put it in a container and shake it up. I have had to stirr equal amounts of fuel to oil to dilute the maple syrup enough so it can be added to a container and shaken. Small detail, but an extra step none the less.

 

I may give super a shot when I go back to milling some stuff this spring. A little carbon isn't a killer for me. The R50 is great and the original is good if you can'tget 100% gas all the time. That's what racers use with nitro and other mixes.

 

Just pm your address and I'll send it your way. It's just one of the 3.5 oz. bottles. I probably won't even use it, I tend to stick with what works. I'd like to hear your opinion on it, and it won't cost you anything.

I think I read that the master mech runs the stuff with good results.

If you really don't want to try it, anyone here is welcome to it, just as long as you let us know your opinion on it after using.

 

About H1R and ester base oils.


It depends on which exact ester they are using.

Diesters have a low coking tendancy but are agressive toward seals and elastomers.

Polyol Esters have replaced most diesters, not quite as aggressive.

Phosphate Esters are extremelty fire resistant. Esentially, they will not support their own combustion. They have a low heat of combustion. They have poor hydrolytic stability and will form agressive acids if exposed to moisture. They also tend to react with paints and sealants.

All in all, I would tend toward a PAO base oil. I don't see the advantages of esters out weighing the issues when used in a chain saw.

 

Why would you go to Super if R50 is working for you ?
Are you using gas with ethanol, or is the cold limiting your use of R50 ?

 

OK, you have twisted my arm, PM sent, and Thank You !!!
R50 only for you, eh ?
Seems like that should be the next one I mix up !

 

Seems like the top few oils that I have to try are all ester based.
A wild azz guess, but I am thinking that with all of the motors that are running H1R, R50, K2, etc.. they are using an ester of some kind that doesn't eat up seals or cause acidic buildup, they also haven't been reported to eat up paint on equipment in use. Possibly an ester based on something different from what you have described ? What category would the synthetic esters fall into ?

 

All esters are considered a 'synthetic'. They are a product of the chemical reaction between an oxoacid and a hydroxl.

Base Oils are catagorized in 5 groups I-V.

Group I is essentially slightly refined dinosaur pizz. It is solvent refined.
Group II is Hydrocracked, a chemical process where by they useless stuff is transformed into more useful stuff.
Group III is severely Hydrocracked, more chemical processing to make usefull stuff from the junk. Some call these 'synthetics' but they really aren't.
Group IV is Polyalphaolefins. These are the true full synthetics that are built at the molecular level. Think Mobil 1.
Group V is everything else, Esters, PAGs, vegetable based. Most if not all of these are considered synthetics.

Anything with an Ester base oil is a Group V.


It is possible that their formula includes a healthy BN to help combat acids formed due to oxidation or hydrolysis. If you really want to get technical, send me samples and I can run oil analysis on them. Would give some idea to the additives package. Would need about 3 ounces of each, I could send you sample bottles.


If you want a little more information.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

 

Just to see for myself.

 

This sounds cool! Id be up to send some amsoil dominator. Be cool to get analysis of all these were discussing.

You must be on the forum bob is the oil guy to as technical as your getting.

 

I know exactly what you mean !!

 

Actually I have never visited the forum. Have heard of it though.

I do this for a living. I am a reliability engineer at an iron mine.