In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

What's the best 2-stroke oil?

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by clemsonfor, Oct 4, 2013.

  1. jharkin

    jharkin

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  2. NortheastAl

    NortheastAl

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  3. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    The oil itself is what actually determines the ratio, the engine mfg makes a recommendation based on the majority of oils available at that time. Like my SL-9 that says 16:1 on the cap. That was for when we mixed 30wt with regular gas for 2 stroke fuel. Now in the highest performing/cleanest running 2 strokes out there, the mfgs are recommending mix ratios (or using injection amounts) WAY leaner than 50:1 with special oil requirements.


    As far as I am aware, much of the Mobil 1 product line is Group III and the EP oils are Group IV. I'm sure there are exceptions but if all else fails, the price tag would be another giveaway.

    Run it. And run lots of it, lol. The problems with ethanol "enriched" fuels are mostly due to poor storage habits or environmental contamination, usually water in the fuel from condensation, rain, mist/splash for the boat guys. Fuel cans like to hang out where it's cool and dark. I don't even keep fuel in my shed anymore because the temperature swings too much from day/night. Those large temp swings force a non-sealed gas can (especially plastic cans) to breathe. Breathing can introduce humid air and condensation into the fuel. If the water builds up enough, it will cause the ethanol to separate from the fuel and you will have junk fuel. You can't really stop the tanks on your equipment from breathing so that's where good fuel additives come into play. Lawn mowers sit during cold weather seasons and the whole condensation issue is much less prevalent then than in the summer. You should be able to fill the tank with stabilized fuel and let it sit until next season. Leaving the tanks full also reduces the volume of air in the tank. Less air volume = less breathing so that helps keep water out too. Stored equipment should be stored with either full or empty tanks, not in between. I buy my fuel about 13-14 gallons at a time and treat it with Star Tron immediately after purchase. Anything that gets to be more than 30 days old gets dumped in the truck to be burned off before it spoils. Larger equipment is stored with full tanks, the fuel shut off (if I can) and the carburetor bowls drained. Handheld stuff just gets the fuel dumped back into the gas can. My 2 cycle fuel gets dumped into the lawn tractor if it exceeds the 30 day mark by much but that hasn't happened in years now. :D Gas cans are stored in the garage where the temp is fairly constant.
     
  4. jharkin

    jharkin

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    If you like that , I can point you to more interesting similar stuff ... In a separate discussion to not further derail this thread... Old tech, especially old aviation is an interest of mine...
     
  5. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    i was rhinki g the same about bar oil and canola in the fuel ?? i think omc who now specs and recomends all outboards they have made to be used at 50:1 regardless of what the owners manual says. at one point they had newer engines un the 90 s speced to 100:1 but they burne d pistins so they went back to 50.
     
  6. SquareFile

    SquareFile

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    WOW!

    I hope FHC members equipment didn't come to a premature failure

    images[2].jpg
     
  7. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Nice to see you again Square. Seems like I havent heard from you in like 10 years :)
     
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  8. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Exactly two saws were affected and neither one of them ever saw anything leaner than 50:1 after they left here. I can account for both saws today plus my personal equipment. I was inside 1 of the two and 1 of my personal saws (one for a failed aftermarket case gasket and the other for new rings) a while after I stopped using 80:1 and none showed any signs of bearing wear, heat, aluminum transfer, nada.

    Welcome back SF. :handshake:

    (EDIT: Folks reading this thread should refer back to the original post dates, this thread is as old as FHC itself.:BrianK: I stopped using/recommending any oil mixture leaner than what is spec'd by the manufacturer of the equipment (vintage/antique equipment excluded) in question around the beginning of Dec 2013. )
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015
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  9. PullinMyPoulan

    PullinMyPoulan

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    :rofl: :lol:
     
  10. PullinMyPoulan

    PullinMyPoulan

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    This is what I've been using for a while 32:1 with 90 non ethanol pure gas
    [​IMG]
     
  11. StihlHead

    StihlHead

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    This old thread?

    I use 100% synthetic, at 42.6:1 in super/92 E0 gas. Its 42.6:1 because that is what 3 oz. of oil per gallon of gas is, and the oil comes in one liter bottles that are just over 33 oz., for 11 gallons of premix. More oil for a better ring seal and a tad more lube, still no smoke and no carbon fouling. I have been running pure synthetic oil at that rate for a many years now.

    Mastermind posted that he had some saws come back blown up using 100:1 oils and so he changed his requirements for running his ported saws to at least 40:1. He said the low ends are just too dry with anything less.
     
  12. PullinMyPoulan

    PullinMyPoulan

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    I used to use 50:1 and regular 87 ethanol yes I wasn't well educated.I was burning saws up.Then I started learning and learning is good.Now I now use 40:1 for sythetic and found I like 32:1 for ester or castor.
     
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  13. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    The 87 nonethanol is not your problem.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
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  14. PullinMyPoulan

    PullinMyPoulan

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    No its my carbs problem :rofl: :lol:
     
  15. lknchoppers

    lknchoppers

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    I use Stihl Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil in my saws. I have been an Amsoil Dealer for years and use Amsoil in my motorcycles and other vehicles.
     
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  16. boettg33

    boettg33

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    I use the new non-ethanol 50:1 with a 95 octane in my chainsaw, weed whacker. In my lawn mower and my my generator I use the non-ethanol with a 97 octane at the end of each season.
     
  17. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Why such high octane? And where do you even buy that stuff? Our high octane down here is anywhere from 91-93. Those numbers almost sound like methanol or some form of alchohol
     
  18. boettg33

    boettg33

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    Here is a link to one of the products I use: http://www.vp-sef.com.
     
  19. boettg33

    boettg33

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    I misspoke, it's 94 Octane. From the FAQ:

    Do I need a fuel that is 94 octane?
    Most small engines are designed to run on 87 - 92 octane fuels. However, the higher octane can help when engines are running hotter than they should. Elevated engine temps will require higher-octane fuel to prevent pre-ignition and detonation. Pre-ignition and detonation can be devastating to small engines. Example: If the needle valve on your carburetor is not adjusted properly the engine may be running lean, which could raise your engine’s operating temperatures. The engine may seem like it’s running and performing well, but the added heat is a drawback, which will create a demand for extra octane. This can occur with the changing of seasons as air density is fluctuating. If you’re not readjusting the engine’s carburetor accordingly, it’s likely that your engine will be running in a lean condition. Higher octane can assist air-cooled engines in cooling, even if dirt and build-up have formed on the engine head.
     
  20. StihlHead

    StihlHead

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    Many a long and heated debate about octane. I think that is for another gas thread though, and not oil?

    I have found that octane drops like a rock once it is put in a gas can and it drop even lower when you add 2-smoke oil. So I use super gas in all my 2-stoke gadgets. Also super is the only gas that you can get around here with no ethanol in it, so I do not really have a choice. Ethanol simply does not belong in gas, IMO. The corn lobby can bite me...