What's on your bench now?

I rebuilt 2 272s one with a new meteor piston kit,carb kit,fuel line
I ran it all day monday strong saw pulls a 24" great
I rebuilt the second 272 with a hyway popup piston kit.carb kit,fuel line and seals
I was heat cycling this one and the coil died I'm going to run them side by side they are identical no base gaskets
Muffler mods the only difference is the pistons.

 

Is that a whole bag of “O-rings” for the oil pump on the 2 series? I thought they were kinda hard to come by.

 

Not on eBay their not
Metric Buna O-rings 29.1 x 1.6mm Price for 25 pcs | eBay

 

That's a great idea! Now I just need to figure out what size O-ring fits a 288.

 

181/281/288
McMaster-Carr

 

61/266/268/272

 

Thanks Czed, I was having a hard time paying what some of the sellers were wanting for an OEM O-ring.

 

Yeah thanks Czed good info! I always figured that they could be had about anywhere if you knew the size. Now if I can find this information again when I actually need it.
I also figured the 288/181 and 266 were the same

 

No problem you're welcome
I've run the 1 and 2 series since the 80s and to this day nothing has ever
Impressed me
As much as those 22-40 years old saws
A ported 266 is my favorite light timber saw and a ported 288 is my favorite heavy timber saw
And I've run everything but the computer saws that I want no part of.

 

Pretty much the same here. I've been chasing an air leak (I think) on the 288. Can't get it to hold a tune and wants to run at fast idle. Going to give it some attention to find out whats going on.

 

Pretty much the same here ‘cept I’m dealing with a 181. Looked at it tonight and thought it was sucking air around the intake block. Put in new gaskets and same thing. After a little more precision spraying with a cleaner it appears to be the throttle shaft.
Is there any fix for this? I was thinking a 288 carb, but the throttle linkage attachment is different. Anyone have an idea? Czed M2theB J. Dirt huskihl

 

There is no real fix. The aluminum gets sloppy through 30 years of use. You could try either an O-ring or a small gasket made from an old metering diaphragm that fits tight to the rod and up against the body behind the spring or c clip

 

Didn’t really figure there was a fix for this one. But how about one from a 288 with some modifications. Don’t look like much in the way of aftermarket ones for a 181 although the descriptions say they are, the linkage looks more like 288

 

I believe it’s the bodies of the carburetor that wear more than the shafts. If your shafts are good, you may be able to trade them out with a good 288 carburetor and get it working. I believe it’s just the throttle linkage. 181 has a rod that clips in where the 288 pushes on a roller

 

I’m kind of a late bloomer as far as playing with saws goes. I don’t have much for spares and parts built up. But I do have a project 288 that I’ll have to do some comparisons with. I don’t really have a lot of $$ tied up in the 181 so if’n I have to buy a carb for one or the other I probably wouldn’t mind it much.

 

If you are using Chlorinated break cleaner for your testing DO NOT let it set with it in there.....

 

Hope to have first fire tomorrow! Got a little wire issue going at the moment. Have to make up a new ground lead.

 

It’s aliiivveee!!!

 

I have a question.

Have any of you used those Oregon or other brand ignition chips on vintage saws to eliminate the points? If so have you ever had a saw just throw both middle fingers up at you and refuse to run or not run correctly?


I ask because I finished porting an old Remington Mighty Mite saw and wanted to advance the timing so I removed the points, installed a chip, advanced the flywheel and it wouldn't run properly. I only got it to start once each time with two different coils and it wouldn't rev at all. I messed with coil to flywheel gap, plug gap, challenged the timing flywheel back to stock and its still the same. Nice bright blue spark in the spark checker. Tried a different plug too. I then reinstalled the points, set the gap and it's right back to running correctly. Fired on first pull. This is the first time I've had a saw do this. They normally run like they should with a chip.

The only thing different about these saws is there is what appears to be an internal condenser that sticks off the side but is molded inside the coil.


Its that tube on the bottom. I have a few of these coils so I ran one as is and one where I snipped the wire from that tube and there was no difference in the saw. The wire is in the epoxy they fill the coil with.

 

I think I found the answer.