What's a Cleveland Grand Teton?

Ah yes.... I knew that was coming, lol
There is a guest in that area at the moment, but next time I take the side covers off to get to the little access plates to vacuum it out I'll snap a few pics.

 

Well...Here it is for what it's worth.

TBH not really pleased at the moment, can't seem to get it to run right. The only way to get any consistent fire from it is with the damper valve fully closed. There are two holes in the valve so it's getting that much air.

Even on full blast the fire dies down to nothing until the pellets catch up, and then roars to life, and subsequently dies down again. I've tried more air to where there is little almost no flame, and of course less air. The problem being with less air everything gets all soot quickly.

Either way, it produces heat but not much. This make four pellet stoves here and I can make all other three run clean and hot like they should.
If there was a way to increase the pellet feed, then I could use the damper valve to clean the darn thing up. I took off the control panel hoping to find a hidden potentiometer but no such luck.

There is a 3 pin jumper on the board, (which for the life of me can't remember what we called them at work) so I'm hoping that might do something for me, but have not found any info yet. If I could find the dang schematic I should be able to see if there is anything I can do.

Maybe it doesn't like the pellets, but I'm running TSC "hardwood" which are made by Maine Woods and they run great in all the other stoves, better than New England pellets even (IMO)

Well anyways here's the photo evidence you guys wanted, I'm off to search the interweb some more for a schematic. Happy Turkey Day!

 

You too! Manual attached, basic schematic pg. 27

 

Contrary to what it appears, if I increase the air it burns itself out no matter the heat setting. The only way to get any sort of stable fire is with the damper all but closed, either way it produces little heat.

What I need is to increase the pellet feed, so I can open the damper and get a hot, efficient burn, that produces enough heat to run clean.

Unless I missed it, there is nothing in the manual about vacuum, of the other three stoves only the Enviro had a spec for that which I did indeed set with my Vac meter.

 

Just wondering if PO "modded" (or broke) the damper to account for the packed ash in lower stove vent ports you found while cleaning.
Or, (??) something is impairing the auger (and/or motor) from feeding pellets at the expected rate - based on temp. demand.

Do you have a way to visually verify the damper assembly, and the auger assembly (feed/path -> to burn pot) for the stove? (Lamp w/ Inspection mirror, Bore scope, etc.?)

 

The manual for my original Avalon Astoria always said that the rod should be opened (pulled out) just until the burning embers in the bottom of the pot just "danced" a little. If they got blown out of the pot, that was too much. As the stove got dirtier, I always had to open it more.

 

I was wondering the same thing. The stove does seem to have thermostat capability, according to the manual.

 

Same here, but looking at the manual, it seems the thermostat-controlled mode has the T-stat "built in" at the top display panel - no mention of hooking up an external T-stat. (Pg. 13)

FWIW, had to do another 'deep clean' on the Francesca here this am, "shoulder season" is keeping us busy here so far this season.

"Lot's o' ash" plugging the vent ports below the burn pot, had to use the flexible wire tools (length of refrigerator brush wire) to knock out the ash/carbon out of the ports. Only mention for GHinNH - he may want to consider giving the venting side another deep clean. * I'd hookup the Vac meter and use the PPro readings as a guide - I'd think the stoves are close enough in size, etc. to at least get a 'baseline' .. to start with.

Off to help the Mrs. w/ prep for later - Happy Thanksgiving All.

 

I haven't read the manual but ISTR a stove not closing its POF or one that resets automagicly on high temperature situation can act the same way. Empty burn pot and shut down. Now maybe I should read the fine manual that USSC published.

 

Built in thermostat, with the capability of running in auto or manual. Both work as they should. Just needs more pellets so I can open the damper and get a hot stable clean fire without it blowing out. I think they have it set on the lean side f to boost the efficiency, but it's just too much,

If it just had trim control somewhere. he Lopi in the basement there is a hidden pellet trim pot and the damper. Enviro Mini has pellet and combustion blower trim.

 

I have a meter, but there is no target number in the manual. I gave it a good thorough clean after the guests left and have run it twice since then for a few hours trying to figure the thing out.

 

Yes, it's right there where a OAK would be attached, like a mini chimney damper.

 

Good deal you can verify the damper operation.

You've been roasting pellets awhile, on multiple stoves, so you know what works vs. isn't right - would just suggest that if it's not intake air, or pellet feed rate ( adjust temp., listen and time the auger motor dwell "On" time - to guesstimate change in feed rate),

then possibly "poking around" in the stove venting passages w/ a refrigerator brush, tube brush, or a length of flexible wire (a piece of 12 /10 gauge electrical house wire works / is handy ) might help break up / unplug any stubborn ash, still in the stove.

Gotcha. I would use the Harman #'s as a guideline then: "Harman specifies a normal pellet stove "high" draft (for their model) of -0.50 to -0.60 inches of W.C. (Water Column) and normal pellet stove "low draft) of -0.35 to -0.45 in. W.C."
Source: Draft Adjustment on Pellet Stoves & Heaters Several adjustment controls & methods


For reference: the small Francesca stove here, w/ 3" venting, combustion blower @ 1,900 RPM, no wind (calm day) was 0.27 - 0.32 in. WC, last time I checked.

 

WTF does burns itself out mean? Sounds like no auger delivering pellets, I'm dense and Furry just ask my friends.

 

Number 4 blinking on some stoves hey JT.

 

I'm actually surprised that on that type of board/display there isn't a "keystroke" pattern on the buttons where you can make changes on the parameters.