In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

What kind of splits do you run in your OWB?

Discussion in 'OWB's and Gasification Boilers' started by overactor, Nov 29, 2018.

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What size splits do you prefer

  1. Smaller more normal sized 3-4" splits 16-18 inches long

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. Medium sized to larger splits 4-6" x 20-22 inches long

    52.9%
  3. A micture of small and larger splits

    35.3%
  4. Chuck in rounds

    11.8%
  1. Sourwood

    Sourwood

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    I have the non-EPA system. I split up to 24 inch logs, and quarter or halve them, depending on mood. Mix in uglies and tree limbs from time to time. I have a 25% ratio of uglies, to splits, as I do holsen haus, and pitch those into the center.

    this is the first year I have been caught up enough to burn wood that had a chance to age 12+ months. I notice a big difference in the reduction of ash- meaning a lot more of it is being burned up.
     
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  2. Jon_E

    Jon_E

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    Heatmaster G200 here. Just finishing 2 full years of service, before that was a CB5648 classic. I cut everything to 20" length where possible, 24" is about the maximum that the firebox will take but I like the 20" length. Been thinking about cutting shorter, to 16" as I get older. I split everything into 4"-5" diameter or less, only because I am behind on my hoarding and I need the firewood to dry faster. Although the smaller the splits, the faster the load burns. Unfortunately for this winter I don't have any larger pieces so I am going through wood at a pretty good pace. I started w/ 5 cords in early October and I am down to just about 3 cords, maybe a hair less. I have a couple cords of beech in reserve that I was hoping to save until next year but they may be needed in the spring.

    Every once in a while I will put a big chunk or 'cookie' in the firebox but only if there is a good bed of coals and a bunch of smaller stuff in there as well. I tend to burn uglies even if they are not completely dry, just to get them out of the woodpile.
     
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  3. nsmaple

    nsmaple

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    I just checked your replacement thread out. Did you ever get your underground piping replaced? That might be costing you some wood, if not. Likely wouldn't be cheap though.
     
  4. overactor

    overactor

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    I have 1 friend who does all things lumber jack with me. but he lives 1 hour from my place lol. Wife works nights, I work days, and the end of summer and all of fall was nothing but rain and it set me back.
     
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  5. Jon_E

    Jon_E

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    I have considered it but haven't done it yet. I have 80 feet from the house to the OWF so it shouldn't be too bad cost-wise.
     
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  6. lukem

    lukem

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    Have you measured your heat loss on the supply and return?
     
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  7. Jon_E

    Jon_E

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    Nope. Haven't felt the need to.
     
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  8. Felter

    Felter Banned

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    wow!!! I really like your set up!!! I like the idea of a roof and the "caps" for the steel totes. I use totes too but i usually just throw the centers away. the "caps" are good way to keep the wood dry. :thumbs:
     
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  9. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter

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    Thank you, the tote roofs l saw on here. The carport just seemed like a good idea. I will eventually store all my wood in them to cut down on handling it.
     
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  10. Felter

    Felter Banned

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    I chuck in rounds up to 20 inches. bigger than that i noodle or split. my burn chamber is 6 foot deep so its easy to roll a round back that far. but harder to throw a big split.
     
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  11. Felter

    Felter Banned

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    I was looking at the carport. it would be nice to have the studs far enough apart so you could squeeze a tote in between them. maybe cut one out and put in a header? perhaps some welding and fabricating is in my near future... :cool:
     
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  12. JustWood

    JustWood Guest

    As big as will fit and fill in around sides with slabwood and lumber cut offs.
     

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  13. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck

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    Looking for some help/information. I’ve been using my 6048 since new for 12 years now. For some reason this fall I’m having a hard time getting a fire started to catch when reloading. Flames up & burns great when I load it but once I close the door it’s seems to struggle to catch/ignite. This was never an issue before & I’m probably burning some of the driest wood ive had in quite a few years. The other day during a warm up I let the fire go out, cleaned out fire box, scraped the inside down thoroughly, inspected chimney & it was all clear. Lit a new fire & same thing. It seems like it’s not getting enough air or draft with the door closed. I have a fan on the door & it seems to be blowing fine when I put my hand on the inside of the door where the air comes out. Any ideas?
     
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  14. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck

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    The way my stove is operating currently I’m sure my fire would go out if I put a piece that big on the fire. That didn’t use to be the case. Something seems to have changed but I’m not sure what it is.
     
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  15. JustWood

    JustWood Guest

    Have you checked the cleanout at the bottom of stack ? What type of material is in there ?
     
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  16. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck

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    Nothing to speak of. That’s where I took a mirror & checked to see if it was blocked & cleaned it from but it was clear. I got very little debris from cleaning.
     
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  17. JustWood

    JustWood Guest

    Wind coming from an unusual direction when this happens?
    Like maybe up over a building ?
    A lot of ash buildup in the back under the heat/smoke dam?
     
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  18. Farmchuck

    Farmchuck

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    No & No. It’s puzzling
     
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  19. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter

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    6048 is fan induced draft not natural? I wonder about restriction on the draft side.
     
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  20. JustWood

    JustWood Guest

    Mine is natural draft.
    Mine would go out too with just a monster in there. It's why I mix in a lot of small slabwood/lumber cutoffs.
     
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