What bar and ripping chain do I need for a G660 for milling?

If you are not brand specific the the Best saw to get is the one that has the best dealer support stihl,Husqvarna or echo if you want to save some money buy used if you are looking at a clone then you take your chances they are not cheap because they are built as good as the 3 main manufacturer

 

More like "Yeah we ordered it"

"Hasn't come in yet"

"Hasn't come in yet"

"Hasn't come in yet"

"Yeah we're giving up, sorry"

 

That.
Is.
Weird!

 

Yeah it's super annoying. Like, I can't even get chains for my MS251 from there. AND THEY SOLD ME THE SAW. Files? Yeah right.

Trying to decide what my next move is. Returning the saw, and the bar I bought, and the four chains is gonna be an ordeal. But I don't see a way forward with this thing. I haven't even been able to run it once and I've had it 2+ weeks.

 

I don't know your situation but, is it really a big deal to drive an hour to get the parts you need? Its not like its a weekly ordeal. Or shouldn't be anyway. Can you call the dealer that's an hour away and order the parts, chains ect, make one trip and be done with it for awhile? Like I said, I don't know your situation but I personally have no problem driving an hour for good service if nothing closer exists or what does is sub par.

 

When I am looking for a deal I have drove over an hr to pickup a saw or piece of equipment

 

Same here.

 

Yeah that would be no big deal.

My understanding is with these clone saws you are replacing parts pretty often until they arrive at a reliable state. If that's the case then multiple hour drives is not worth it.

Here's a question; all the trees I'd be milling are under 24" (hardwood). If I end up buying another, smaller saw than 90cc, what displacement do I actually need?

 

I cannot answer that as I've never milled before. Hopefully someone can guide you in the right direction.

You could research what the problem areas of that clone saw are and get all those parts up front in one trip. Replace as needed.

 

Bigger is usually better but if you take your time and give the saw a break now and then a 70 cc saw will do what you want to do. So 372, 460/461/462, 7310 echo, 572, 575,576,044 since you already have a Stihl bar I’m assuming

 

24 inch hardwood is some tough stuff.
Again, milling is hard on equipment (not so easy on the operator either) so go as big as you can go saw wise, you won't regret it. And remember extra oil in the mix and oiler for chain wide open.

 

Not a terrible idea.

Though at this point I'm leaning towards returning it. I feel like it's going to be more trouble than its worth long term.

I'm debating getting a Echo timberwolf and putting my Stihl MS251 on milling duty until it blows up and then I can wash my hands of the Stihl brand. It's 45cc though so it's probably slightly undersized. Then again my average log will only be like 16" probably.

 

A 45cc saw is " small" for milling and for most probably cuts best with a .325 chain over a 3/8. If you are milling 16 inch logs then the bar should probably be around 20 inches minimum. That is a " LOT " for a 45cc saw. Even bucking a 16 inch log with 45cc is probably close to the max for it.
I don't see it lasting all that long milling with it.

Could be wrong and this is only my 2 cents on this ; it is tough work especially for the saw.
You're s going to have any saws tongue hanging out milling with it.

 

You’ll kill it pretty quick and hate every minute of milling, if you buy a real Stihl, echo or husky pro saw you more than likely won’t need to worry how crappy the close shop is because you won’t need him. Just the one an hour away when you go to load up on chains ect because any of the 3 main saw brands won’t probably need to be touched for a long time.

 

You're right on point with milling with a 45cc saw. I tried it on my 029 super when it was stock (56cc) and there simply wasn't enough grunt there.

 

Alright. Still marinating on what to do. I have till the end of the month to return the clone saw.

Assuming I decide to keep it and shotgun parts at it, what all should I get? I'm thinking carb for sure.

 

I used my 362 for my first attempt, that is 59cc. It was on 12-14 oak and that is about all it would handle.
Also keep in mind the oiling on a smaller bar is not enough to support a long bar for milling. It’s not gonna last.

Think about it and don’t rush into it. It’s a fun hobby but you don’t wanna get off to a bad start.

 

On my farmertec 660 the only thing that is not farmertec parts is the wrist pin bearing (had a bad reputation back then) and then the chain tensioner, which like I mentioned earlier, did NOT fix my adjustment issue, until I shimmed the tensioner in the case...but at that point I just decided to keep it.
That's all I recall replacing on mine, but I assembled it myself from a box of parts, and inspected everything before installing...I did have to clearance the inside bottom of the piston skirts as they actually had light contact with the crank at BDC. Cleaned up the ports a bit, did a gasket delete, and she runs pretty good for a stock saw! But I only use it a time or two per year, so that's why I cheaped out n went clone.
I agree, the 251 will only pizz you off trying to mill with that...plus probably ruin it...may as well give it away while it's still worth something rather than just blow it up for spite.
When milling, use an auxiliary bar oiler, and run top quality oil in the mix gas, like the ones someone mentioned earlier here (I think it was here) and mix it rich, like 32:1...might adjust the carb a lil on the rich side too...like to the point it 4 strokes until you really lean into the mill.