What 2 Cycle Oil Should I use?

yes, yes I have. scary crap. when they rupture because they are made cheaply only adds more issues to a crappy product.

 

I don't like frams and I would not recommend one, but I have a customer who got 465k out of a 4 cylinder in 4x4 Mazda Tribute and he only used frams. I wonder how long it would have gone if he would have used a better filter. He now uses a Wix filter on it.

 

Good Ford disguised as a mazda. I've got a coworker that has a similar Tribute, and she was amazed when I told her it's a Ford escape with a little different skin on it.

 

My opinion is there isn't a best of anything, just one's personal preference.
I started out using the Husky XP oil and I tore my saws down on occasion to visually inspect and make sure it looked good inside (no excessive carbon build up, plenty of residual etc). It was doing great, then I started milling and by that time I had switched to 40/1 for the extra oil content for bearings. That oil choked me out while running the csm so I decided to switch to Klotz R50. Klotz took me straight back to my dirtbike days, watching races at the track included. It smells soooo good (they even make these).


Fast forward about a year. I did run it in all our (my son's included) saws. I had planned for a friend come over and show me how to degree wheel the black Jonsered 2150 so I could do a full port job, which was my first. When I tore it down, I saw this (you can see where I had placed solder in the squish band for a clearance measurement).


You may immediately think, bad tune. All I can say is that I do in fact know how to tune my saws and have for years. And it's a known thing that some bike oils don't completely burn in saws (not enough load/heat). This oil did work great in the 394 on the mill where the heat and load is high enough to burn it.
So after seeing that, I switched to an oil that has a great reputation on the chainsaw groups of cleaning build-up.

A little spendy but I'm almost through the 2 six packs I bought and will probably go back to the XP oil that I had experience with and keep the Klotz for milling. Depends on cost.

 

I picked up some Tanaka Perfect mix yesterday. FD rated, oil code 001HKU004.

 

Amsoil 100:1 isn't a gimmick. Ran it at that ratio for a long time. Runs great, never a problem.

 

My formula is 91 non oxy gas with a dollop of Seafoam and whatever 2 cycle oil I happen to have on hand. I run this in my saws, weed whip, ice and earth augers, hedge trimmer, leaf blower, etc. I simply run 50:1 in everything.

In the four stroke outboard, snowblower, generator, four-wheeler, snowmobiles, mowers, etc I run the 91 non oxy gas with the Seafoam and have not had to winterize, summerize, or otherwise drain/refill any fuels in my equipment (2 or 4 cycle) in over 30 years with no problems in any of them...and some of that equipment is original and still in use over this whole timeframe...just shut them down for the season, forget about them, then fire them right up when used again. In some cases this may it may be 7-8 months later. The oil in these machines typically gets changed yearly.

From an early age I was told not to use Stabil in my fuel, and to always add Seafoam to all small engine fuel, and it seems to be working out well in my case. I have never used Stabil myself, and nobody in my family does, so I really don't know how well it works, or doesn't.

 

CGS hawk! I had a chance to fly one of those. Great little plane!


Wood always heats you twice, unless you rehandle like I do then it’s four or five times!

 

I don't think I saw mention of it, read the manufacturers requirements. It will probably state "JASO FD" or something similar.
JASO Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org
Any oil that meets that JASO standard (and they will say it on the container) will be fine. I personally use Stens.

 

I've been running K2 mixed with 87 octane, corn liquor infused fuel for several years now and have never had a fuel related problem on any of my 2 stroke engines.

I can get a 1/2 gallon jug for about $30 and it lasts me a looong time.

 

popcorn


Wood always heats you twice, unless you rehandle like I do then it’s four or five times!

 

To the earlier poster, I put Stabil in all my non-car fuels. Never had an issue.

 

I've used a ton of Bailey's Woodland pro synthetic without issue. Nice blue/green die to make sure it is mixed.

Last week I bought a gallon of Echo Red Armour after glowing reviews from a buddy who is a saw mechanic, haven't used it yet so we'll see.

FWIW, I could have bought a 5 gallon pail of Woodland Pro for what 1 gallon of Red Armour costs.

 

Red Armor changed formulas a couple years ago. The old stuff was really good at keeping the engine clean. The new stuff is still decent oil but not like the old