OK. Having a signature note stating: "Kickback King and head chain brake tester" led me to believe that I could point out that some habbits can be changed for the better, but if you've survived a few thousand tree fellings and assumingly a few kickback close calls to earn you your above title, who am I to offer advice?
You'd have to know me to understand the chain brake thing. It's commonly called irony or a joke. if the forum has a sarcasm font I'd be happy to use it. Never had a issue with kickback personally. Never a close call with it knock on wood. It was kind of a big deal for me to make sure the brakes on all my saws worked when I had a crew. It's hard to find good help and I would have hated to see one of those knuckleheads wreck their face or worse. Years back I was a certified ISA climber. Before that I worked as a feller. But now I'm just a firewood hack so feel free to give advice. I'll feel free to ignore it if I like. Each face cut has its place. I'd use an open face when it was called for but a conventional is perfectly acceptable most of the time. It's more important to use what your comfortable with. If you like the open face cool. There's nothing wrong with that. I hope you don't think I'm bagging on ya for using it.
In over 30 years of felling trees I've used conventional 99.99% of the time,humboldt a few times when logs were extra nice & wanted to preserve as much length & have never even seen a open face before. But I do see this quite often around here - both by novices & so called ''professionals'' Went for a walk in neighbor's 10 acre woodlot in April 2015 & seen this - Those V cuts make me cringe.The County Road Department is fond of those also,they do that in combination with a big backhoe to push the trees over when removing them from right of ways & along certain bends in gravel roads that are shaded & don't dry out fast enough after rain/snowfall. That & the high stumps so many leave kinda pizz me off....
I see those around here all the time as well. That frenching stuff sure makes me angry. Your county road crews must have trained at the same place as the ones around here. I had a new groundie tell me he was experienced when he hired on once. "I've dropped dozens of trees," he said to me. I asked him to show me with the saw off how he would drop a tree. Same dang thing as above. He went on chipper duty for awhile. To give me time to train him up.
take a small chain about 60 -70 cm stay back of the tree and put the chain in front of your eyes , then go to the left or right of the tree and put again the chain in front of your eyes , the chain is always stay spirit level and show you if the tree leaning and from wich side then you can decide how to cut it
I dont know if this video is making for educational , but if not i see another stupid with chainsaw , the tree is crystal clear that is heavy leaner and he start cutting from the back and the hinge is very big
Some idiots , stupids uneducated , thing that if the tree lean forward its more easy to fall so they make the hinge and then they start cutting the tree from the back , as some other idiot learn them the tree will not barber chair if you know how to cut it , so the tree is not false the stupid who cut it is the false
Its not the trunk , here its a tree with small diameter plus that you have made a big and deep face cut ( for what i can see from the pictures ) small trees like this dont give barber chair , with small trees like this the saw can reach to the hinge before the lean and the gravity create the barber chair, even if you dont use face cut is very dificult to have barber chair
Conventional when you want to cut the tree as possible near to the ground for example veneer trees that the most expensive wood grains are near to the roots for example walnuts Humbolt when you want the bottom of the tree reach the ground first and then the top fall to the ground see the shape and you understand , they think and create this type of face cut because they cut in very steep slopes For the open face cut no coment
The next time make a humbolt with a 45 and over degrees face and tell me if the hinge break , or a conventional
Aaaahhhh very nice stumps here if the neighbore put and some chairs around will be a high design table
Absolutely right. A weight hanging as a plumb will tell you exactly how much lean you have. By checking from different angles you eliminate all question about lean.
i leave my family cutting trees and repair saws its the only that i know to do , 2000- 2500 cubic meters every year is enough to know the tricks or not ?
If you make a notch opening of 45 degrees, the notch is going to close before the tree hit's the ground; way before. This is just simple math. If you have a straight tree on flat ground it must travel 90 degrees; a 45 degree notch will close when it's halfway down. When the notch closes the tree isn't going to stop going, it is committed to hit the ground. The hinge is going to break and then the tree will not be in control for the last half of it's trip to the ground. GOL recommends 70 degrees minimum. Some trees that I cut with this method have to be severed from the stump after they are down which means the hinge was in control the entire way. The ones that break at that point are almost on the ground by the time they do. Proper hinge set-up (angle of face cut, length of hinge and width of hinge) not only makes for safer controlled felling but results in less pulled fibers which is a financial concern if you're cutting timber for sale.
