I picked up one of those 40$ idiot proof stihl 2in1 sharpeners after a bad paid sharpening experience and have never looked back. I still haven’t been able to figure out how they “sharpened” a chain to be blunt, this was after increasing the price from $3 to $6 and also doubling the lead time. That 2 in 1 literally paid for itself in the first month.
Sounds like a great idea. The pink wheels that come with it are just ok. They work, but it’s slow. I didn’t realize this until I picked up some green Tecomec wheels on eBay at about $17 each. They’re a worthy investment
Can anyone tell me... taking it to a dealer like I did and he used his machine... is it just the way it is with these machines that each tooth will be burnt or can they do it without burning? BTW, this filing is/was done very fast. I'd say he did all three chains in about 10-12 minutes.
It shouldn't be burnt. That was fast, sounds like he was grinding it off in one pass. But I just started using my grinder. This is one I did... have to use a light touch
If the chain is burnt or newly discolored after grinding it got too hot and has changed its heatr treat/ temper. Grinding too much, too fast with too much down pressure. I've been hand sharpening since I was 14. My job was to fuel, oil, and sharpen the saws up while my dad ran another saw. He would have 4 on the farm truck when we had to build or clean fence. I have a pferd and a Sthil all in one sharpener. Both function the same. The Sthil is for my 3/8 Pico chains and the pferd is for my normal 3/8 chains on my 036 and 044. They work great on full chains but won't work easily on skip chain. Skip chain doesn't have a tooth for the 2nd guide bar to ride on top of. You can make it work you just have to pay attention more. They will bring down the raker but won't angle or contour the leading edge. I take the flat file out and contour the raker once I see a sharp edge. I have not checked to see what depth of cut they file the rakers too. They seem to work well on oak and hickory. Plan on cutting hedge this winter to test file geometry. Depending on the chain used the file may be 1/16 under sized for recommended file diameter. But, it allows the tool to file the teeth all the way back to their no-go limit. My Oregon full chisel chain specifically calls for 25 not 30 angle and a 10 degree down vs 0 degree down as on Sthil chain. Tool still works but the rakers are cut at the 10 degree angle too and need to be touched up to be flat. I had a Pico chain yesterday giving me problems yesterday. I've used the all in one tool to sharpen all year and the last few weeks the chain is very graby and vibrates bad. Chain was thrown 2 times while limbing and broke the bottom cover pin on my ms180c. I was not quite at no-go on chain sharpening. I put a new in box chain on the saw and all the problems went away with the old chain. Bar is new so I guess the old chain was just worn out or tool doesn't cut quite right at the end of tooth life. Teeth on old chain were evenly filed before use
That's why. No way I can do three chains right in 10 minutes...unless there is three of me working at once and then we're not doing rakers. And to do it that fast were burning the crap out of your chain!! Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
The local hardware store sharpens chains for $8. I watched him one day and OMG...sparks were flying, smoke was rolling...it was awful. I file mine, unless I rock one or hit a fence post, which only happens when I put on a brand new one, or when I need to true them back up. I’ve got an Oregon grinder. Sometimes you just might have to go around the chain twice,if they’re really bad. I’ve found setting up an air line helps cool ‘em while you’re grindin’.
I have an Oregon at work(not sure of the model) and think I’ve gotten pretty fair with it. At least they cut well for me. Spent a good share of today sharpening chains, did 14 I think. 4 of them belong to the guy who was helping me yesterday. He will be back on Thursday, I’m kinda anxious & nervous to see what he thinks of the job I did. Never done any for someone else before.
The local guru at the Stihl shop retired a couple years ago. I remember him when dad took me to the shop when I was a little boy. His retirement prompted me to purchase my own sharpener. I read info on this forum and watched videos to learn how to do it. I’m still learning and getting better
Does anyone touch up their chain in the field between fuel-ups and filling the bar oil? I sat down the other day to sharpen some really dull chain I had on my smaller saw (16"), and it being the first time I gave it a shot, I wasn't too proud of the outcome, and when I use it it pulls pretty well to the right, so I get that annoying curve. I sat down again and sharpened my 20" saw and did a much better job. Larger chips and doesn't pull in either direction. Would it be a decent job to run the file through with the guide I have more regularly?
If you start using a progressive raker gauge, your chain will cut straight no matter how different you file each tooth. If you use any other method, it’ll go crooked if you file one side more that the other. Cheap little tool.
For touch ups in the field I use a battery operated Dremel with one of those diamond stones. I can get a good sharp chain in nothing flat.
I now use the Super Jolly after area shops began charging between $10 and $12 to sharpen/destroy your chain. In the last 2 weeks I cut 5 white oak trees and 12 large, 17" to 19", red oak logs with my 461 with a 20" chain without so much as a touch-up. When I finished the last red oak log it was still throwing good sized chips. I could never have done that hand filing, came close with the Timberline. Rain for the new couple of days so I'll sharpen a couple chains.