I think Stihl originally designed that tool if I am thinking of the right one. I bought a Chinese knockoff of the Stihl tool off eBay for like $14. I ran it across a tooth a few times and seemed to work good. But haven't needed to sharpen since I bought it Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
New Electric Chain Saw Sharper This is the answer. It’s a hazard fraught but it would work if you go slow and take your time. And at $7.50 a chain it would pay for itself in 3 sharpings.
saewoody Let us know how the Pferd 2-in 1 file works out. I would never pay to have a chain sharpened. I touch up in the field if needed then I use a Granberg file-n-joint to keep the angles right and do the rakers about every other sharpening. Only takes a short time to sharpen a 20 inch chain.
Pallet Pete did almost all of my chains and they were amazing. Before having Pete do them, I had a bad experience at a local chainsaw shop too. Turned out, they had "the new kid" sharpen chains. They were all much worse than when I took em in...
I don't think there much more new than that at Harbor Freight. I had one of those a few years. As everyone says there not perfect. If you run 3/8 chain you have to buy the correct size wheel to properly sharpen them. But taking your time and repetitive and repeating the same motion in pressure per tooth and down motion you can do good. Still have to touch up rakers by hand or figure a way with it. Many of us started with them. You can do better with one than a guy at a shop hacking up your chain with a $600 grinder. I still have mine but the chain roller plastic knob broke . It still works but harder to advance a chain. You have to pull it by hand a little different. But I have one of the Oregon copies that is a much better grinder that I paid about $90 for from Northern tool. I have seen an identical copy from other brand on eBay for $10-20 less than that. But if your consistently sending chains off to be sharpened forb$10-15 a loop it pays for itself in a year easy!! Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
There are very very few shops sharpening chains that have high end grinders now days. What most are using is something the consumer could buy for not a lot of money. The Tecomec clones are virtually the same thing as the offerings from Oregon. Actually they make Oregon. All have the same weakness and that is the accuracy and means in which the chain is held from the bottom rather than being forced into the groove from the top like Silvey. If buying, get one with a full sized wheel. Timber Tuff Upright Bench Mount Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener | Blain's Farm & Fleet There aren't a lot of these around anymore except on my bench. I've got an experimental one with a Silvey style vice that is set up for rakers right now but not in this pic .
I sharpen a lot of chains, part of my business. I wear out vise assemblies about every 6 months ( the stud and cam tensioner) . Use 3 units one set each side and one for depth gauges. As you said there is some inherent in accuracies in the tecomec/ orgeon/clones. if you are aware easy enough to make allowances for same. There are quriks with the square grinders as well ( not mention the apx $1200 price tag) . I use calipers to match both sides ditto in the depth gauges. not advertiseing here, I charge $6 ea. up to 32" loop. I know the hardware store on the corner is charging $9. At the moment I have 13 8ft loops of full comp .404 to do $25 ea. Takes about an hour to do one including cleaning them first. 20" loop maybe 4 or 5 in an hour. I have 2000 sq ft shop that I rent- so I have over head to come out of that - therefore before you complain too much about prices think a little further. I see plenty of misguided sharpened chains ( ouch) those take longer to correct. 90 % of what I do is industrial- course everyone is an expert eh? If I had the budget I would like one of the Franzen machines ( automatic chain grinder) ($36,000) takes about 2 minutes for a 20" loop full comp. I have looked at all the other automatic units and found them to be less than stellar.
Thats sad and i'd be pizzed too. I can remember my dad paying $2 to have the chain on his old McCollough sharpened and hearing him complain then plus the inconvenience. This was the 1970's. He then got a file and did himself. I have learned ever since to do it myself and have almost always freehand sharpened my chains. Have had filing guides in the past. I did at one time use a micrometer to get all the teeth the same size when i noticed a difference in size and cutting performance. Still is in the toolbox and has been many years since ive used it for that. Guess my sharpening skills have improved. Ive gotten pretty religious about keeping the saws sharp and prompt about doing so. I could justify bringing it to a shop if i really destroyed the cutting edge/tooth. My friend where im storing wood had asked if i could sharpen chains for someone else who dropped wood for him. Guess the guy was a PT landscaper and ddint know how to do it. I didnt know what to charge for it? This was last year.
Well everybody knows one bad experience in one shop by one person is the complete exemplification of the whole industry.
I sharpen a lot of chains 6.00 for anything up to 20" 7.50 for 20"and up I see a lot of rock hits in my area those would be tough to get back with a file I also see the filing carnage one side at 20 degrees the other at 35 to 40 degrees top angle no depth gauge cutting etc tough to make people happy when you tell them they ruined their chain with their filing skills I sharpen most chains while the customer waits and I believe I do as good a job as possible and I have never gotten any complaints but Nothing cuts like a new chain but the new chain is always the one that finds the metal in the tree JB
Ain't that the truth, or the one that you just did an extra special careful sharpen on and it sure is cutting nice. I have one or two chains that I've hit something with, put aside and need to bring the mics out and measure to get them all on the same page. Never seem to make the time. Could also drop off at the local dealer that, although he has an odd personality some don't care for, he does a damm fine job sharpening chains. Dunno if his kid is as good at it though.
I've hand filed since the 80s arthritis in my hands now so last year i bought one of these oregon knockoffs. I'll never pay anyone to mess up my chain's I've seen the local shop's work over the year's. I've sharpened 60-75 chain's it paid for itself a long time ago. VEVOR Saw Chain Grinder with Grinding Wheels Chain Grinder 1/8 and 3/16 inch Electric Chainsaw Sharpener Bench or Wall Mounted, Size: 5 might by another just to do rakers with.
So you like this one? I pay to have my chains sharpened, but I'd like the convenience of doing it myself. That is provided I can sharpen then we'll.
I have an Oregon copy it's from Northern Tool. It is around $100. I got $20 off with a coupon I think it was a few years ago. The Timber Tuff model Firewood Bandit was talking about is the same one. Also I have seen them linked to on eBay for around $70-80. There all the same one. I like it. Can sharpen a chain fine, really it can do a better job that you will be able to operate it for awhile. But within a few hours after you know what your doing I bet you will get a chain better than you can handfile unless your a fileing expert. Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
MMMMM" Odd personality the wife says mine is just disturbed " I did do a experiment on a chain once a new chain that hit a railroad spike in a cut I just sharpened the teeth they were all different cutter lengths but I cut the depth gauges for each tooth to spec and the chain cut fine it was a 28 inch bar and it cut through full length logs no curve or binding I had to remove a good bit of tooth from some and others were just touched up 2 teeth were ground off completely it was one UGLY chain it was a 3/8 chisel on a 2095 jonsered just food for thought JB
If you are cutting any substantial amounts of wood, you just need to learn how to sharpen chains. It doesn't matter if by hand or a grinder as the results are the same same if done correctly. What I have found is those who are good at hand sharpening, generally can pick up running a grinder quickly as the concepts are the same.
i have to clean up alot of damaged chain's. for customers easy to get rocked chain's back in shape. big time/labor saver once you get used to a grinder it's second nature. to quickly sharpen a chain. i still handfile a lot in the woods.
I also have one of the HF bench mount grinders It does a decent job if you take your time and don't over heat the cutting edge. I also have the Granberg electric grinder which also does a decent job but I still prefer the Granberg hand file jig.
