Warmest you burn?

I do the same. But I’d rather not have to do it that way. Just takes more thinking to set the squared off pieces aside. Or when I don’t do that, I find myself digging for the appropriate pieces for cribbing. Like I said, I’d rather have a wood shed... The pieces for cribbing do very well for overnight burns.

 

The perfect stack! Just perfect!

 

Thanks. And thanks Backwoods Savage ... that’s the problem, no one wants to burn a perfect looking stack!!!!

 

Yeah...but with my luck my toes would pay the price. Lol!!!

 

Where I Live, that wouldn't work, too much rain and Wind, the wood would never be dry enough to burn, when you wanted to burn it, Late August-Mid September it would burn Great, Late December, not so much



In good weather roll the tarps up, for heavy rain and wind, roll them down, it is quick and easy to do, and they hang loose enough that I stihl get pretty decent circulation with them down


Doug

 

It's not a "woodshed" but works well and I have 0$ in them.
And the best part, No cribbed ends!

 

I tried that. Then this happened. It happened enough times on various stacks that I just decided to start cribbing as you can see in the restacked pic. Suppose I could’ve engineered something a little better. But laziness set in.

 

If your going to put an angle brace on the end to support a vertical pallet, it should go towards the outside, to a stake driven deep into the ground, or braced at the bottom of a good sized tree. Having it go back to the floor pallet doesn't resist the outward force the same way.

 

I admit that I am not a Structural Engineer, but I have to Respectfully Disagree. If the point of support is the same, it shouldn't matter if the supporting member is facing with or against the load.

With some supports it will matter, based on the material the support is made of, whether it is supporting in Tension or Compression, some materials such as Rope, Cable or Chain, will ONLY support in tension, but in a solid beam, such as a 2x4 piece of lumber, it will likely offer greater strength in Tension, than Compression, especially as the length of the bracing member increases, it will hold in Tension, but as length increases so does the likely hood of buckling, in compression.

Those are just MY thoughts to consider, and again submitted Respectfully for you or others to consider, and possibly argue (Respectfully of course) in Favor of or to Show why I May be Wrong.

May it be an Interesting Discussion, that myself, and others may learn from


Doug

 

Lets say you had a smallish section of wall that was leaning at a 30 degree angle. Do you think you would be able to better stop it from falling further by placing your hands against it on the inward side, or by pulling/holding it form the outward side?

The weight of the woodpile is helping push the upright pallet with the direction of the angled brace. Putting it on the other side would act against the natural lean and weight. JMO. I'm no engineer either, but as a carpenter for 20 years, I had to brace a lot of walls, poles, posts, etc. Also, if you look at the way roof trusses are designed they have opposing angles.

 

Nice firewood and shed! I would put some louvered sides and back on it. Have been thinking about doing that to mine. I know what you are dealing with since I live in western WA. The open wood shed does fine til we get a large wind and rain then the front row gets damp.

 

The hand against the wall example fails in that, there is no attachment to transfer the load to the hand, it has no way of resisting the lean of the wall.

With the pallets being braced by the 2x6 in the example, it is Nailed/Screwed? into both the horizontal load supporting beam, and vertical load resisting beam. Even with a facing the load brace, there needs to be some sort of attachment, be it Nails, Screws, Notches, brackets or what have you to keep the support beam in place. Just cutting, as an example 45* angle cuts on a 2x6, and placing it between the base and vertical bulkhead, without attachments, it won't hold the load either

The bracing in roof trusses are attached as I described above, and HAVE to be facing the supported Truss member, to support the truss member in Tension, would require the supporting member to pass Through the roof structure it is meant to support.

I do welcome any more discussion, either way


Doug

 

This is an example. The brace is opposing the force of the deck load. So the more the deck load becomes, it acts against the brace. If the brace were to support the deck from the top it wouldn't be nearly as efficient. The load would push the same direction as the brace. Hopefully that makes sense. If you rotated the image 90 degrees and the deck was the upright end pallet, the brace would be on the outside.



I don't want to bog down his thread, but if you start a new one I'd be happy to join in the discussion.

 

I am already ahead of you, at least in the Concept planning phase, of Louvered Doors & Walls.

I haven't had the TIME yet, but I am invisioning using probably 2x3 cut about 4.5" long, then cut diagonally with the narrow ends about 1" and the wide ends the Full 3"(2.5" ? now) to make wedges to attach to the Vertical "Studs" then using 1x6 (.75x5.5)6' fencing boards for the siding. I have it Basically figured out in my head, what I want to do, but I haven't actually cut any wood yet to fine tune the final design

We bought our house in May of 2016, and this is the first time that we have actually been able to get about a year ahead, on our wood cutting. I need to get another large Cedar removed to make room to build another shed, similar in design, but probably about 30' feet long, and still trying to decide if I can get away, space wise with 3 rows of splits, or just 2, like this shed.

One of the concerns is, if I place the shed too close to the fence, it will shed Rain and Snow into the Neighbors yard, I don't know the Neighbors behind that fence well, they are not out much, and I don't know how they will feel about that. I have had Neighbors at a previous house, that would have caused all kinds of Grief about that, and don't want to go there.

If Kept further from the fence it pretty much narrows it down to two rows, and I loose a LOT of capacity. I have also picture using a Bi-Fold style on the doors so a Bi-fold set of doors 3' wide, would allow me to have 6' openings between the door support posts.

Yep, I have a Lot of Ideas on how to do it, now I'm just waiting on that Winning Lottery Ticket, so I have the TIME to do it



Doug

 

What's that,rubber roofing on top ?

 

Typically I wont burn if it gets anything over 50 degrees outside (F). On those warm days the smoke can really settle and the whole driveway and yard look like a Civil War battlefield with cannon smoke everywhere.

 

Okay, I'm either losing my mind, or Dreaming, I swear that someone commented on not needing to do more than top cover a wood pile, quoted my post on louvering the sides even, and it seems to have been deleted???

In reply to the now MIA/AWOL post, this is why in many parts of the Great PNW, more than top covering is needed.



This wood was cut and stacked in August, and Unfortunately, I didn't have the time or room, to Split and Stack out of the weather, these pics were just taken before posting this.

This is why, I spent time Sunday afternoon pulling about a cord and a half forward, and to one side, in my 4 cord shed, so I can start splitting and filling that shed from the back forward, and still access the seasoned wood still in it.

July, August and September is pretty much when our wood seasons, Late October through June, even when it isn't raining, much of the PNW has high humidity levels that wood doesn't season much, if not WELL protected from the weather.

In some parts of the country, simply top covering is adequate, others not so much, that is why I use the drop tarps, and intend to add Louvered doors/walls to my sheds, time permitting

Where I live it does make a difference.

Between Plentiful Hardwoods, and being able to top cover only, some have it pretty good. I Love where I live, and this is just part of living where I do, I'll take the trade in Balance, there are a LOT of Beautiful places in this country, I would Love to see many of them, but there is no where else that I would rather Live.

Sorry, I have already derailed this thread in at least 2 different directions, I apologize


Doug

 

No...I have an antique pair of those and have grabbed a piece of wood and walked 20 feet with it in hand only for it to let go and have a chunk smash my foot.