Vogelzang Highlander Blower motor replacement?

Oh I forgot I got in contact with the vogelzang/USS folks. Did the chat/text feature so I didn't have to be on the phone as I did other stuff. They said I have the older model that uses the f26 blower, the one I see is f27 and like I said is not compatible. I asked if they had a part number for motors but they didn't respond with anything.
The stove literally turned 12 years old from date of manufacture. Can't remember how long I have had it but how long do they keep parts for? I guess I would of replaced or done something before but I probably use this thing a max of 6 weekends a year so it really doesn't have that many hours on it. Looking at other stove blower motors it said ambiennt air temp of 104f. When this thing is rolling I can see the air it sucks off the floor of the fireplace being kind of warm back there. Probably not helping it.

 

You might be surprised...the air through the blower is probably not as warm as you think...once it comes off the front of the stovetop however, different story.
If you have had it all this time, and never had to fool with it before, you are doing pretty good I'd say (even with the "low hours")...the fans that we use every night for ambient noise need to be cleaned/lubed twice a year I'd say...but that is also many more hours, like every night for 8-12 hours...usually find some long blonde hairs wrapped up in them (wife and daughter) but the bearings usually are kinda dirty and very dry by then too. A quick cleaning and a drop of oil makes a HUGE difference.

 

Pulled the bearings off. Sprayed cleaner on then, blew them. Let dry. Lightly oiled them and reassembled them. Going out to my shed to hook it to power and see if there is a difference. This was the one that barely spun when powers up before.

 

Please do tell what your go to replacement for PB is. Thanks

 

This made no difference. Still won't start, sucks power and dims lights . Won't even start with me giving it a spin start.

 

Most people say kroil, but it's expensive one, but if it works that's fine but my biggest bossier is that is not really available...at least stores I go too.

 

Can't say I've used Kroil. Don't recall even seeing it! Hmmm.

 

The can looks like it's something straight out of the 50s or 60s.

50/50 ATF/Acetone is a good one I have seen on YouTube and many folks who say they used it.

 

Well that stinks...

 

Yep. Now I'm looking for motors that I will, need to either modify the housing to accept them or cannibalize the motor or parts of it.

 

Almost anything else...kroil is good but don't often have it around, like liquid wrench, WD-40 is always around...kinda depends what I'm trying to do, and what is handy...we occasionally get some CRC, and there is some from Permatex that is ok too...just depends on what purchasing gets a deal on sometimes too... I won't use PB unless I don't have any other choice though...can't stand the stuff.

 

See I like PB better than WD. I like it cause it leaves a residue where WD dies up more.

But when something is stuck stuck it usually takes heat no matter what.

 

Interesting. I'd take PB far before WD as a penetrant. CRC has some good stuff. End derail.....

 

Horkn or anyone else who knows, what would you call this style electric motor? Like (not saying this is what there referred to just making it up) if there called pancake or flat motors I'll start googling around with that name and amperage to see if that helps. I have come to the realization I'm going to have to canabalize something here.

 

Take a sniff on these. I've used these 20-30 buck blowers shown on this link with success. Think retrofit!

Amazon.com : century wood stove blower

Edit: As a matter of fact I should grab a few more before they disappear.

 

Kroil is the best. I saw that Walmart sells it now. Online only, as well as amazon. I have not seen it in any store though.

 

Yep. WD is by far the worst/ least effective. But it works for some things. Liquid wrench is available pretty much everywhere.

 

C frame motor

 

The first 10 or so of that link are all the same basically. Unless I can take that motor out which is what I am planning on trying to do now, just want to stick with a similar RPM plus the shaft must fit my squirrel cage or new cage has to fit in existing housing. Those pictures won't work, one there is not the rear clearance and two I would need to cut a new hole in the back and weld up the old slots. I. An do that but I get back to there is not clearance in my application. I have to fit in the fireplace and sit far enough back to fit the liner to the top of stove. I already fabricated this one and cut the pedestal base it sits on so that it clears the top of the fireplace.

 

Thanks. I am combing Google image search now for anything similar.