Very good draft today stove is trying to take off

I've never run a tube stove but I gather you have to be careful you don't get too much wood gassing at the start....

Even the Buck, a cat stove where you should normally be able to cut the air and kill it, was taking off on my if I got too much wood gassing on a reload. At the beginning of the season I replaced the door gasket, even though it seemed pretty good and dollar bill test seemed OK. I also replaced the door glass gasket and bay window gaskets; Now I've got the control I'm used to with a cat stove...

That's what it sounds like to me.

 

Lopi Non cat tube types are meant to be run hot on start up, close bypass, then start choking air back. They run hot, but not 700 surface temp hot.

I hadn't seen a lopi without a bypass. That's why I was asking.

Me thinks it would be hard to start a quick, high temp fire without smoke out in the house without having the bypass.

 

Nothing wrong with a 700 STT on a steel stove.

 

Yep. I would love to have some white oak, maybe some day I'll go get some.

Agreed, although a bigger firebox would be nice!

 

Agreed, no problem what so ever!

 

After two winters I changed the door gasket on the Endeavor. It could not pass the dollar bill test before that.

 

One thing nice about the Drolet is you can stop it dead in its tracks by closing the air way down.

 

I can't get my Endeavor to burn that long. How tight do you pack the firebox?

 

My Lopi Answer doesn't have a bypass but it's a pretty small stove. I installed a damper in the pipe about as close to the stove as possible and it's given me a bunch more control. Looks like the next order of business is a new door gasket I'm guessing, as I happened to look at it sideways last night and could see the orange glow through a small section and it appears that the door latch isn't adjustable

Al, I can't get those kinds of (useful) burn times out of my Answer either. I can have coals left over after 8 or 10 hours, enough to re-light, but no useful heat after 7 or 8, especially in this colder weather we're getting now.

And on the subject of too much draft; this cold weather has definitely boosted the draft in both of my stoves. I can (kind of have to) turn them both down earlier and farther.

 

Not a problem at all even with the door wide open, smoke goes out the way it is supposed to,
and when you crack the door it's like a wind tunnel no problem getting a hot fire going.
My stove likes to run around 650 to 700

 

My chimney is about 15 feet 6 inch pipe from the stove goes into class A 8 inch at the ceiling
Since I installed the new gasket I don't have a problem controlling it now, even today with a temperature of 6 degrees outside I can shut it right down if I close it all the way .
I was about ready to put a damper in because I didn't think the gasket was that bad causing the problem.
I checked it with a dollar bill and it seemed tight enough, went around the door with smoke and it never would pull the smoke in so I didn't think it was that bad.
The stove act totally different now and is very controllable

 

as tight as I can possibly get it and put in fillers to decrease the gaps, I put the biggest peace I can find in the middle.
Once the stove room hits 68 time to reload, just enough coals to pull forward for re light.
If there are more coals then I want then I put a pallet wood board across the front on the coals and fire it up and run the blower, that will get me back up to 72 73 for couple hours.
I am probably only going to get 8 or 9 hours (maybe 10)with these temperatures we have now

 

You may be shocked at how much better your stove runs with better control over the air. Loads should go longer and more heat should make it into the house instead of warming your chimney cap. You really need that when it gets cold out and draft increases. Heck, you may find you don't even need the pipe damper. Get on it, man, winter's coming!

 

I just reread this, if you have a leak you can't even see, I found out it can be pretty bad, if you have a laek you can see a glow through, now that is a very bad leak.
My stove uses washers to adjust the latch in and out just add or remove washers.

 

You got that right woody
This is the second year for me with this stove.
I was shocked at how different and better my stove runs now

 

Glad to hear your Endeavor is under control. I replaced the door gasket before I fired up the stove, so I didn't have that problem. My syove likes to run around 500-550 degrees surface temp. To get a long burn, I also pack in several splits and fill in gaps w/ kindling. I'll let that burn about 10 minutes w/ intake wide open and bypass open. Then bypass gets closed and I reduce intake about half or so. Took me 2 sea sons to figure that out.

 

Yes, these temps are doing a number on the stoves being able to burn long. I can get about 2-3 hours of good heat, then the falloff begins. Last night I had the oil heat set to 70° just outside the stove room. Heat came on a couple times in the wee hours. Added wood at 3:30am, then again a hot reload at 6:00am. Lots of coals make it difficult to get the box full of wood, though.

 

I found the washer(s) behind the latch last night but it's a little toasty in that area to be able make any adjustments. SWMBO is working from home today so I've got her burning down the 6" deep pile-O-coals with the pipe damper closed and the air control wide-open and strict orders to rake them throughly at least once an hour! Seems like a pretty good compromise on retaining some of the heat while giving the coals enough air to combust.

 

A few days ago I went around my gasket squeezing it with my fingers to fluf it up, It is surprising how much Tighter is is just doing that.
This is the first time I have ever tried that trick, but it definitely tightened up the stove door quite a bit. I wasn't having any problems I just wanted to try it out because I had read someone else on here did that
I'm not sure if that will work with a really old gasket or not mine was installed this spring