Uh......there's more.

Worried about anti-vibe bushings as well. They seem very soft to me and made of just rubber......which is not good when it comes to exposure to naphtha.


Here's a screenshot of a document on glove materials and their resistance to different chemicals.

From here:

https://www.augusta.edu/services/ehs/chemsafe/PDF files/gloveselechart.pdf

 

And it does appear that those anti-vibes are made of rubber still.

From here:

https://www.stihlusa.com/guides-projects/a/anti-vibration-system/

 

Do the mineral spirits leave an oily residue after you're done? If so how you do remove that?

 

It’ll air dry. At least until it’s really oily. I always blow it off with air to dry it regardless so I can handle it without having mineral spirits on everything

 

MS660 clutch before and after a bit of scrubbage with some brake cleaner and a brush. New springs too.

Do you need to add any lube to the clutch forks? I'm guessing a little spritz of white lithium might do the trick or a drop on each side of 3-in-1 oil.

 

I always rinse it off in hot water, then blow dry with the air hose...that gets things pretty decent.

 

Got a few things installed. New chain catch, new av bushing near the carb, reinstalled the carb housing, and then I noticed some damage on the cases and it looks like the connecting rod slammed into the cases on both sides front and rear. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the actual connecting rod and there wasn't any damage to the gasket either so I'm trying to figure out how that happened.

 

That spot happens when the cylinder is removed and the rod is free to smack into the softer magnesium. You can watch it happen in the video you posted earlier. I avoid it by protecting open crankcases with paper towel.

 

It doesn’t take much… it’s often found in cases where the previous mechanic had the top end off and didn’t realize the rod is free to move.

The gasket and sealant should cover that and seal it well.
If the crankshaft doesn’t have play (any play is bad in ball bearing interference fits) but you still suspect bottom end problems, always remove the coil while ticking it over. Rarely, the crank can feel tight but the bearings (or shaft itself) is shot. A visual inspection and “feel” is the way to go.

Sorry I haven’t been posting much- busy at work and home. My Bonnies lost today so I’m done watching sports for a while. Onto saws, habitat work, etc. now.

 

Yep, I done realized I did it like about 10 minutes ago!!!!! Face palm to myself. Rookie move. "HOW DID THIS HAPPEN???? Oh wait a minute........let's go to the video tape........"

Thanks for the tips. When reinstalling the coil, is the business card gap method good on chainsaws as well? I used it to reseat a coil on a BR-600 blower. I imagine it probably is although this one looks rather tight.

 

That clear silicone substance is an adhesive Stihl sometimes used on the two-piece carb housing/tanks from 1122 series and others. Decades of fuel and finally a decent cleaning caused it to come off. No worries there.

 

Thanks. I was trying to figure out why the heck it was in there in the first place. There are 7 screws holding the plastic in place I doubt it's going anywhere. Were they concerned about air leakage? I don't get it.

 

Yep, business card is fine. Check the poly flywheel for any high spots near the magnets. Make sure it clears everything and doesn’t hit the cylinder (transfer port area). Usually there’s clearance unless things are a touch “off” after crank/flywheel assembly.

 

Dust, maybe. I’m not totally sure on that. My 064s had the same problem.
1122s are bullet-proof saws that will probably go down as one of Stihl’s best series. They’re nearly always worth rebuilding.

 

Yeah this saw looks and feels like a beast for sure. I can't wait to try out my first 54mm piston.

Here's a pic of where he had bent the chain brake band to "get it to go". I bent it back and it looked ok. Hopefully it doesn't break (no pun intended).

On an unrelated note, this 028 that I'm rebuilding. I thought it had the wrong washer behind the clutch. Looked up the part, ordered it, but when it arrived it was definitely thinner than the one installed and the center hole was too big which caused it to bind when I reinstalled the clutch. I could not pull the rope at all. I had to put the original one back in there.

Has this ever happened to you BuckthornBonnie? The one on the right is the older one and it is significantly taller than the one I ordered as well as being slightly less in diameter.

Part I ordered was 1118 162 1001 based on the ipl. I had thought because of the marks on the original one it was too tall.

 

Yes, but not 1118 series.
1125 and 1122 had different clutch washers that corresponded to different clutch keepers around the “hub.” If an older style clutch was used with a new style washer, the eclip may not fit and everything would be too tight to come together (even after the clutch was torqued).
Compare everything and assume that the existing washer is the correct one.

 

I would replace that brake band. Metal fatigue is very real and that brake needs to work properly with a 92cc saw in a bucket or in the hands of a groundie.

 

Ok will do. Safety first for sure.

 

The guy I bought the 028 from was a tinkerer.......same saw was missing e-clip for one of the chain brake pivots, missing the chain brake spring, and who knows what else he pinched from the saw. So it would not surprise me in the least if he put the wrong clutch on there with a matching washer from some other series saw.

 

Installed a Meteor piston in the MS660 today.

Full list of things done to this saw:

New Meteor 54mm piston, wrist pin, circ clips
Cleaned out the cylinder of aluminum transfer and carbon buildup on the muffler port (this was a lot of work)
New spark plug
New heavy duty air filter
New clutch springs
New clutch needle bearing
Cleaned muffler
Cleaned spark arrestor
New fuel line from tank to carb
New fuel filter
Filled with Trufuel 50:1
Filled bar oil
New chain brake band (old one was bent)
New carburetor rebuild kit
New chain catch
New cylinder gasket (used gasket maker as well to ensure a good seal)

Waiting for the new fuel tank vent rubber thing-a-ma-jig to arrive as well as one bumper strip for the clutch cover and the gasket that goes in between the two halves of the muffler. Filled up the tank and then tilted the saw and I could see fuel coming out of the clear vent line.

Got it to start today. First time pulling a big boy saw like that. Holy moly I was not prepared for the pain when not pulling the rope correctly. I learned that pretty quickly. Had to make some minor adjustments on the carb and I don't have a bar and chain for it yet so I couldn't tweak the idle but it was idling and revving up nicely. Bar oil was coming out properly as well.

Very excited to do some test cuts on this saw. I think my buddy is going to put a 32" bar on it. It has a 3/8" 8-tooth rim sprocket on there.

All oem parts except for the air filter which has one of those foam inserts inside of the housing.

Pretty lame on the pictures but this is all I got today.