TSC stove...King I believe...need help

I leaf blower it, then take off the tee, with a dishpan underneath. I take the tee outside, clean it and put it back on. No big deal.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraPlus-6-in-x-16-in-Adjustable-Wall-Strap-6DP-AWS/204719877

 

Glad to help wildwest . corncob is right, the DuraVent standoffs / wall straps are uber-expensive. ... You'd think there was gold or silver content in them, at that price.

I've made my own here using 3/4" x 1/8" x 48" 'hobby' aluminum flat bar stock - it's soft enough to bend around the pipe, extend down to (whatever) standoff length from the structure is needed, and bend at a 90 angle on either side for the tabs to secure. Easy to drill, uses a bolt w/ washer & nut underneath where wrapped around the pipe to clamp securely. A 48" length of bar stock will make (3+) wall straps, and costs $7.50 . ( A vise is helpful for bending to shape, but not essential. ) A decent Drill & metal bit for the clamping / mounting holes is needed.

 

Yep that price is ridiculous.

 

Took some 1/8" x 1" flat stock and a couple pieces of 1/16" sheet and plasma cut out some mounts, welded and bent the flat stock to fit and they have been on the side of the house (lag screwed into the sheathing) for 20 years now. Those Duravent and Selkirk standoff's are chintzy and super expensive.

 

For my P43, the inside pipe is at about a 45* angel instead of vertical, so at least the cleanout T is accessible even though it is only a few inches off the floor. I used the cleanout T to get the clearance I needed to get past the back of the stove. A 1' section of regular exhaust pipe would have had my stove sticking out too far from the wall. Even so, the hearth pad does stick into the doorway by 1.5" I have no vertical outside - just a cap straight off the horizontal pipe. I use the LBT off the horizontal pipe. In reality, I've never used the cleanout T.

 

I did this for 2 reasons:

1. There was an existing thimble from the Hastings (which was a true corner install)
   
2. Couldn't move the exhaust any closer to the window.

 

For some reason, people like to install their stoves close to the wall. I don't because I need to get back there when I take mine all apart in the spring when I clean and oil everything and being close to the wall magnifies the disassembly issue. I have a corner install and mine is a good 3 feet from the corner and it's still a pizzer to get back there to take it apart.

 

In my case, I like to use the doorway right next to the P43 to get into the kitchen . There is literally no other place in the main floor that I could put the stove unless I put it in my bedroom. I don't have an issue getting behind the stove for cleaning/maintenance and have replaced the distribution fan without moving the stove. I've only had to move it once in 7 years, to replace the exhaust motor, so it hasn't rally been an issue. I've never had to move the P61 in 8 years - although after removing some walls in the basement, I did relocate it to a better position 3-4 years ago.

 

The Englander 25-PDVC I've been rehabbing here is the same way corncob: when you only have access to the internals from the back of the stove - that extra room helps.

 

"Creative" This is because I did not want stove close to stairs.No T at stove, many harmans have a direct path after popping off the inside combustion blower cover, which you have to do to clean. Several feet are outside.So with T up there,I can brush down and out, clean all the pipe without going outside. A soft brush will fit and slide past the exhaust sensor,and cleans it in the process. I use a regular pellet brush on 1 rod for that.