Trouble getting straight cuts.

here are two pieces that were cut angled. Might be hard to see the angle,but it's there. It's not curving, straight cut but angled to the log...

 

I'm not convinced you have sharpening issues if it's not curved, nor necessarily bar issues.

I still have issues with sharpening, and unfortunately curved cuts.

Are you sinking the dogs in on each cut?
Perhaps it's an alignment issue on the spikes. If one side is sticking out further, it would seem to create a natural angle.

Have you done a "free handed" cut as someone suggested?

I certainly don't have as much experience as many others.

I'm sure you'll get it figured out, and be safe with the upcoming "Michael".

 

Check your bar and make sure it is not worn unevenly. Should be able to stand up on the edge on a flat and level surface, if not then it will never cut straight. Also, I rotate my bar every tank of gas to keep the wear even on the top and the bottom.

 

Thanks, Chaz, I haven't cut with it today just split those rounds in the picture. I'll probably cut some more tomorrow.

 

I flip my bar about every 2nd sharpening.

 

Your cuts in your pics don't look curved, like you'd get with a worn bar or inconsistent raker height or cutter sharpness. I say adjust your sights a little. Just a click or 2

 

I bought myself the cheapo grinder. A life’s experience using cheap tools to accomplish a task helped the decision. Just gotta learn the quirks and overcome them
What really helped was buying the diamond blades for it. Easy to balk at the price but when you figure out how much all those loops cost it’s not so bad. And they really do a much better job grinding to a professional level with less heat. Those pink wheels went straight in the garbage.

 

Where did you find the diamond wheels?

 

Yep, probably need to recalibrate my glasses or close one eye...

 

Sounds like everyone here has covered every suggestion I would've had. I do file the face on each side of my bar occasionally to remove the burrs. Mighta missed it but have u tried a new bar or old one you know works well?

No matter what....your smoke dragon doesn't give a squat how angled it's dinner is...

 

I think huskihl hit it jeff. Those cuts are straight. Whole saw is just tilted a bit. That could easy be the big spikes throwing it off.

 

Diamond Wheels | Chainsaw Wheels | Discount Diamond Wheels | Diamond Plating | Grinding Wheels

They really are night and day compared to the Chinese abrasives. No idea how many chains I burned and burred before I bought a set. I eventually even sent away for the square one to knock down the rakers. That job could probably be done better with a file but nowhere as fast.
A YouTube video taught me to “bump” grind the chains. Before that I was really making a mess.

If everything else is fully square pay attention to how your gripping the saw. Much like shooting a pistol. If you find a percentage of shots are leaving the group in the same direction it can be traced to hold. I had to practice awhile with the 372 new bar new chain and new spikes. Shifted my grip a little different than what seemed natural and it came around.

 

Crooked cutting can drive a fellow nuts. I was losing it over my 360 last year. I finally deduced it hadn't been oiling enough and the drivers wore down before they should have making the chain sloppy in the bar. So just got a new chain. The teeth still had 1/4 or so life left.

 

I file the sides too. No, haven't tried a new bar yet, trying to save the $$$. I get to trying to be to neat sometimes.

 

Thanks, I do the bump grind. Probably just need more practice, which means more moremoremoremore, winner winner chicken dinner...

 

The bump and grind bananas.
The faster you split those rounds the faster the crooked cuts disappear

 

On my Oregon grinder there is a screw that moves the inboard side of the chain groove. I’ve found that if that screw is set to the correct driver width, I don’t need to readjust the depth gage that determines how much material is removed from the tooth when changing from left handed to right handed cutters. Before having a proper adjustment on that groove/channel left and right, I was having to measure individual cutters and adjust the depth gage to get left and right cutters sharpened equally. Now I just swing the grinder around and know that the adjustment is correct. Makes sharpening a lot quicker. In the pic you can just barely see the adjustment bolt...

 

Most definitely a matter of unbalanced cutter filing if your bar is not worn out . Very easy to do since its takes a lot of practice to file effectively on each cutter sides ( muscle memory )

 

That's a nice grinder, mine is a habor freight $35-40 model that was given to me...

 

Thanks... I suppose, at least in this case, the more you spend, the easier it is... not always the case... As has been mentioned in other threads, when it comes to sharpening, you have to try different methods and find what works best for you. Not everyone’s experiences are the same..