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Trimmers - discussion/pics

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by RCBS, Apr 25, 2023.

  1. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Hmm - The FSA 57 itself is not attachment capable, but hold up, that's not a deal breaker. When buying into a battery platform, the BATTERY itself is the most important thing, not the motor/tool. It looks like Stihl has been hard at work on the AK system. :yes: The AK platform is pretty slick, priced lower and more compact than the AP (pro) stuff and still offers excellent quality tools. The KombiMotor on that platform is the KMA 80 R - and that uses the same KM attachment suite the homeowner and professional gas (or battery) powerheads use. But I'm not so sure I'd go for the KombiMotor right away. One of the best things about battery equipment is that it doesn't mind sitting around. You can have a fleet of (infrequently used) dedicated tools with their own motors, and simply pass a couple batteries around to power the fleet. Trying that with gas equipment is a recipe for funding your mechanic's early retirement. So for the one or two most frequently used handheld tools, ie: A trimmer and an edger, I'd probably buy dedicated tools for those so I can leave handle positions optimized and enjoy a lighter weight unit for those tasks. Then buy a Kombi to run whatever else, like a polesaw, hedgetrimmer, cultivator, etc.
     
  2. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Yep. The battery is the key on this equipment. I understand that the FSA 57 trimmer will literally be a weed wacker and that's it. The battery though can power other tools. :yes:
     
  3. morningwood

    morningwood

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    When I bought my FS85 they just came out with the FS110 four-mix weed eater. Since the tech was brand new at the time I was hesitant about buying the 110. I *believe* you couldn't buy the 110 with a solid shaft like you could the 85 also. I knew I was going to be running some brush cutting attachments and was told by the salesman that I'd be better off getting something with a solid shaft.
     
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  4. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    The FS85 is a classic and I wish I had one (in R trim). I trimmed MILES of fence line and laneway with one. That's what we graduated to after the old Echo SRM2501's started to die off. The FS110 and FS110R, along with the FS85 and 85R, are all solid shaft units. At the time of the FS110R coming out (it was the first of the 4-Mix engines to be released), the FS85RX was available and that was a hollow shaft unit as it was intended to be a string trimmer only. RX trimmers (like the FS85RX, FS100RX, and the current FS111RX) have hollow shafts and in the case of the latter two, a lightweight gearhead and guard which takes a LOT of weight off the business end of the unit, at the expense of blade or attachment capability.

    Stihl uses three different types of driveshafts, cable (flexible), rigid/hollow, rigid/solid. The cable shaft units are typically the curved shaft models and lower power straight shafts like the FS55R/56R, FS80R, FS94R, not sure what the FS70R has but I'd venture it's a cable shaft too. Surprisingly enough the FS90R and the FS91R are solid shafts and only the FS85RX, FS100RX and the FS111RX utilize the hollow shaft.

    I have an FS110R at home, and even 15 years later (admittedly under light use) it's in great shape and runs strong.
     
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  5. RCBS

    RCBS

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    Got a 1.5 hour sesh in two evenings ago. Covered about 40% of everything. (all the stuff you can see from the road lol) 2-1/2 lots left and a couple of banks to complete one cycle.

    The new bevel head is noticeable when running. Needed a quick tune and now running 5 by 5.
     
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  6. Ohio

    Ohio

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    Burned a tank a fuel in the FS 110. Asian bittersweet and grape vine, nasty invasive vines. Working on beating it back and spraying the “stumps”. IMG_2113.jpeg

    IMG_2112.jpeg
     
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  7. Dok440

    Dok440

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    I have never used a blade on anything that big. Can you ease into it slowly or is that a no go?
     
  8. Ohio

    Ohio

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    I don’t ease the blade in, I bounce the blade off the vine stem at full throttle. I’m only cutting a little bit at a time. Probably takes 4 or 5 hits. For the bigger one (grape vine). I don’t hog it in either, my goal is to take little bites at high rpm.

    I don’t know if I am using it the way others do but I have used this unit hard for 8 years and it’s held up well.
     
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  9. Dok440

    Dok440

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    That's impressive! Those grape vines can be tough especially when green.
     
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  10. Ohio

    Ohio

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    This vine was on the dry side which I think is harder to cut, kinda like cutting green wood vs dry wood. They get so wet sometimes they will have water running out of them.
     
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  11. RCBS

    RCBS

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    If they are shaded, you don't need to spray the vine stumps. They will resprout, but with canopy cover they won't sprout a second year. I've killed thousands. Only see regeneration from 1 of every 200. I gambled when I was clearing them from property and declined to spray because of cost and general PITA. My gamble paid off. Still a few here & there but mostly you won't see a vine. This will change the next time timber is taken off and sunlight is reintroduced to the floor. (which needs done, but market is mostly crap)
     
  12. morningwood

    morningwood

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    That's some impressive knowledge. What does an R model give you ?

    The conversation I had with the sales guys about the weed eater was 19 or 20 years ago at this point. My assumption is, he pushed me to the FS85 over the 110 because the F85 was probably a tried and true model at that point and the 4 mix stuff was new tech at that time.
     
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  13. morningwood

    morningwood

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    I've cut hundreds of grape vines as part of the forestry plan for CAUV. I've noticed the same thing, some will grow back and others won't. One year I had a friend come out to help and we sprayed them with Roundup but if you are by yourself ( which I mostly am ) that's generally not feasible. I've cut a few that were probably approaching 4" across.

    With Honeysuckle, I have found that you have to spray it after you cut it or you will never get ahead.
     
  14. RCBS

    RCBS

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    Somewhere I have a trophy piece of a vine stump I cut. Before it dried out it was over 6" diameter.

    I usually recommend mechanical means whenever feasible. Low dose roundup on the leaves of Privet does seem to do the trick. I figure if I can get away without chemical exposure that's the best plan. When I am hunting Ailanthus I gotta spray some nasty stuff. Only way to kill em.
     
  15. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Wouldn't Crossbow smoke 'em pretty easily? Especially spiked with some glyphosate. Yeah, it's 2,4-D (and triclopyr, which is the real magic) but neither are the worst chemicals I can think of to use. Metsulfuron-methyl (MSM) would be devastating on Ailanthus but that certainly qualifies as "nasty stuff" as it is quite notorious for spray drift and unintended soil activity clearing out all woody shrubs/trees within a significant radius.
     
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  16. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Decoding Stihl model numbers:



    FS = Handheld Trimmer/Brush Cutter
    xxx = Model number

    (no suffix) = Bike Handles, which are considered the "standard" by European manufacturers due to inherent safety and ergonomic characteristics.
    R = Loop handle
    RX = Loop handle (I believe it's a slightly different style from the R loop handle too), lightweight (String and PolyCut heads only)

    So an FS 85 was the bike-handle version of the FS 85, The FS 85 R (most popular by far) has the standard D-Shaped loop handle, and the FS 85 RX was a loop handled trimmer with a hollow driveshaft to reduce front-end weight. IIRC, the only difference between the 85 R and the 85 RX was the hollow driveshaft. Even converted a few back to solid shafts for commercial customers (that didn't want the then unproven FS 110 R) after the 85 R was discontinued but RX models were still readily available. Lighter than running an 85 T (Later renamed the KM 85 (yes, you could get a KM with bike handles at one time!) and KM 85 R) and the cost to do so was pretty reasonable. $40 drive shaft IIRC. It's been 20 years! :jaw::BrianK: The other way to build an FS 85 R (after Phase II EPA regs took effect) was to swap shafts on an FS 80 R (same engine!) and that was also a popular conversion as LOTS of FS 80 R's were sold vs the pricier FS 85 R. Inevitably, someone would push the cable shaft a bit too far with an aggressive blade and need a service replacement. The flex shaft was lifetime warranty, but not if an "unapproved" blade or attachment was used. So, we'd suggest a solid shaft to go back with as a replacement. There were more differences between the FS 110 R and the FS 100 RX, with the lighter gearbox, smaller guard, and different handle in addition to the hollow driveshaft. Same story for the current FS 111 R and FS 111 RX. What I can't figure out is why we don't have an FS 94 RX as everything else on the FS 94 R is optimized for light-trimming, but it lacks the hollow shaft and light weight front-end components the FS 111 RX has while still being lighter overall. Just not up front where you'd feel it the most. :sherlock:
     
  17. Skier76

    Skier76

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    This thread was very helpful; enabling me to look for a Stihl battery powered trimmer on Marketplace. Scored this FSA 57 with the AK 10 battery and charger for $80. Picked it up less than 10 minutes from home. Thank you all who chimed in on the battery powered Stihl units; it was really good advice. I will still (Stihl?) keep the 20+ year old Homelite that still runs; despite a broken throttle and a leaky tank grommet.

    IMG_9835.jpeg IMG_9836.jpeg
     
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  18. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    Have you used it yet?
     
  19. Skier76

    Skier76

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    I gave it a quick test and it worked great horizontally and vertically. Hoping for a better test when I mow in a few days. Thanks so much for your input!
     
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  20. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    Good deal and you are welcome.