Calipers are so you can adjust the bullet depth for the correct height. Well, the seating die does that, but you need calipers to dial in the cartridge over all length (c.o.l.). Using a turret press won't really require a loading block, as your casings and bullets will be need to be picked up and put into the workings of the press. By all means use them for loaded ammo. I might add, depending on the firearm, you can exceed normal cartridge length with the 38 S&W, which has the effect of lowering pressures (with smokeless).
Once you reload often enough, setting up reloading dies is easy, but for set it and forget it, your way works fine. Although when you change bullets within the same caliber/cartridge, you probably will need to tinker with the seating depth. This is also easily remedied with dummy cartridges (no primer, no powder, just bullet and casing).
The loading block is really only needed when hand weighing charges. If you go with the powder drop on the press, you really won't need one. Turrets are the same for all calibers. Get 2 if you want "set it and forget it" although like said above minor changes will need to happen when switching bullets. The caliper is also used to measure your crimp in addition to what was mentioned above.
I took a class at a local shop. Big shop, big big shop. It got us comfortable to buy the equipment and start going. bocefus78 where do you measure the crimp? We are doing just handgun for now so maybe that's why I'm unfamiliar with it.
In the lyman 49 manual there are cartridge dimensions. These measurements are saami max. Measure as close to the projectile as you can. For 9 40 and 45, there really isn't a crimp per se, you just wanna remove any Bell in the case from seating the bullet. Revolver stuff gets more crimp. Go by the pics, remember anything over those dimensions probably isn't gonna chamber properly with glock being the exception with its oversized chamber. Hence the reliability. Google the plunk test. Use the barrel to see how well they will chamber. Use dummy round...not a live one! Mark dummy round with sharpie for ID purposes. It may fit 1 gun, and not another so keep that in mind. Gotta plunk test any and all firearms if you want ammo that feeds in multiple guns. Also remember that brass thickness varies so if you are not separating cases by head stamp, you will get a variance of a couple thou of an inch. I don't seperate but I don't shoot bullseye league either.
For u new reloaders, cabelas has s&b primers for $20 on sale. Thats at least $10 off any other brand anywhere. U won't ever find them cheaper....this is when you buy 5 or 10k. Or more....after all, we are hoarders If you run lighter springs, test them before you buy a gazillion. They are a tiny bit harder than other brands. A stock gun will have no issues.
Good feeling isn't it? BTW, Universal is one of my favorite powders. Great medium burn rate, meters great, and very cartridge flexible.
How do they compare to factory ammo for accuracy in your guns? I've usually had an easy time equaling or besting factory ammo unless I'm going off the rez with either "moar powar" loads, or powder puff loads.
As this was the first batch I used hodgdon's lowest charge @5.1 grain. Recoil was much lighter and the accuracy was the same maybe a touch better. I think I'm going to go to half way between lowest and full charge and see what I get ....
Maybe you guys confirm something for me, coated bullets. Do they get loaded to the same specs as hard cast lead? Order then in the same diameter as hard cast also?
Do yourself a favor, and play around with a few different charges to see what you come up with. Different firearms seem to like different loads (even same model firearm, different person) and maybe you're just .3 grain of powder away from magic.
so true I had to separate handgun presses and rifle to their own benches and opposite sides of the room
Shoot from a rest so you can track accuracy without shooter error. I loaded plated to mid level jacketed range. I don't shoot plain lead so no comment on size but I've read .001 oversized is better than under. I agree on loading up more in .1gr increments. Don't jump to half way...you may skip "the load" and never know it. If the cases were really sooty that's a sign of being underpressure (low on powder) and the brass not sealing in the chamber as tight. It's not all bad, but for uspsa don't u have to make power factor?
When I shot IPSC, thousand rounds a week, lead is the most accurate but hard to keep the gun clean so FMJ was next best
Just a reminder to all us brass hounds. Don't forget to wave a magnet over your brass to cull any steel. Freedom Munitions is now plating steel cases with brass. To the naked eye, you can't tell a difference, but you will notice the minute you try to resize one! Old blown up subwoofer magnets are great for this. American Steel
