Well then I see I'm not an expert but was thinking you can get close to the pressures ? Black powder is more bomb like than smokeless which is slower burning
Clem, I replied to Bocefus before I read yours-- he was asking why black powder. I haven't looked into it but if there is a cleaner alternative I am all ears. I don't care as much about being authentic as I do about not damaging the gun.
I'm sure if you look hard enough on the various gun/reloading forums, you will find the definitive answer. I haven't reloaded black powder in a cartridge, so take my advice as an idea, not the gospel. I have been reloading since around 2008 so I have a clue. AFAIK, with BP, you need to eliminate any air space between the bullet and the charge, and that's the bottom line. If your casing is 1" long, and the bullet while seated is .25" into the case, you'd want the powder column to be at least .75", and perhaps a thin wad on top for compression. As long as there is compression between the powder and bullet, and the firearm is mechanically safe, you should be golden. One thing that I do with my cap n ball, is to use BP with cream of wheat filler on top. I don't know if this is an option for BP cartridges, but you can use less powder while having compression. Again, I don't know if this is done with cartridges, so do some reading if you pursue the idea. I've reloaded the 38 S&W cartridge a lot in the past, for use in the Enfield revolver (1940's rated for smokeless), which is stronger than the Iver Johnson break open type revolver. I used various weight bullets and Unique powder in mine. It's smoky and dirty, and leaves your cases half blackened at low pressures, but it seems to work fine. My monster loads to bring life to the 38 S&W were around 3.3 grains Unique with a 158 grain bullet if I recall. Don't try that with your revolver ever.
From what I have read (quick google search), you can use trail boss powder and 38 short colt data as a starting reference but, AND I STRESS, you MUST get data that has pressures included and as always, start low and work up. The couple forms of data I found did not include pressures, and did not indicate if it was fired in a smokeless rated, or bp rated gun. Good reloading forum is thehighroad.org
The classic 4 hole turret won't handle 30/06? I thought it did, my brother was looking forward to me getting it so he could reload lower pressure rounds for his old M1 Garand.
I would stay away from Trail boss for this application, as while it is a fluffy/bulky powder, it is also low velocity and yet higher pressure than you would think. I would use Unique (if using smokeless), and start low and work up with a chronograph. It wouldn't be hard to duplicate factory ammo velocities. There's Winchester grey box something, and it chrono's at 550-560 fps. If you use BP or a substitute like pyrodex, using 2F instead of 3F would lower pressure as well. It might actually be too slow and give you click........ka-pow instead of click boom.
If he's on a budget, he could get the dinky $40 Lee single stage press and use that. As long as a guy isn't ham fisted it will work fine.
So... This turret press, what else do I need? Lee Precision Classic Turret Press (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_.2j0wbMGMPXER
Bare necessities: Dies Scale Calipers Loading block Powder funnel Turrets for each caliber you load Many other items are nice to have and make things faster, but those items will get you started. Look at the classic turret press kit as it comes with a powder dispenser, scale (albeit a crappy one) a manual, and other items for not alot more $ And it sounds as if Saskatchewan has a much better handle on loading for that than I do. I'm no BP loader for sure.
There's a powder hopper and discs with various charge size holes. You'll need an extension to hold the powder hopper up higher so it can rotate and not hit your primer tray. A little set of Lee scoops, and the dinky scale works alright. Get a shell holder set for the various calibers. A kinetic hammer to undo messed up reloads. I took a pic of my dusty press so you can see what I'm talking about. Trying to get pic off my Iphone...
^yep...I forgot about the powder hopper riser! You will also need a primer flip tray. Forgot that also. The kit comes with the priming system, if you get the bare press, you will also need that separately or buy a hand primer. I like priming on the press but it's personal preference. Pic of riser attached Priming system is the round plastic thingy Fwiw, lee dies come with a shell holder and a scoop for powder so those items aren't necessary Other pic shows it all together
Thanks for getting that pic up, I can't get my pic to jump from phone to forum today. Uhhhhhh.....apparently I lied, it's there now....
This is pretty important to have. I just got mine a week ago, there's a lot of information on the equipment you'll need to get started in it.
here is some info on pyrodex ( which burns cleaner than black powder ) and the cast boolits forum has tons of info on what you want to do ,if you want to go super cheap a set of lee scoops and a hand press will get it done ,of course you need dies as well Loading Notes Cast Boolits
What is the point of the calipers with this? And how does the loading block differ from the block my ammo comes in?
And the turrets are the same for each caliber, I just want once for each set up so I can have them "set up" and ready to go?
