It might be high enough as it looks like 5 sections of 4' chimney but he no doubt could have and should have added a brace. Horizontal runs are not the best but if they are kept short and have rise, then they are okay. Code calls for 1/4" rise per horizonal foot. I think 1/2" rise is much, much better or at least it has worked out that way for us. I still shudder when thinking about some of those old horizontal pipes people used to run inside the house (to keep more heat in). Some were a bit scary.
Looks to me as though the first elbow is angled slightly away from the house to give more clearance at the roof. Seems like I've seen this one. I don't think yours would need to be quite so severe, and obviously, not as tall. Good find.
Thanks fox9988 for posting that Yes, I used custom made brackets from 1" x 1" square tubing. Welded some flat stock on both ends, drilled 2 holes in each side, painted with several coats of good paint, and mounted it. It was much easier to go around the eave of the house. I am not a skilled carpenter/construction guy. I had to add another 12" of horizontal, but even with 3' of horizontal, my stove drafts like a monster!
Let's say I decide to go through the wall and build support brackets to move the chimney further away from the outside wall. What do I need at the T connection where it goes through the wall; would I need a short section added there? I know nothing about these chimneys but have been studying.
I decided to go with SuperVent and through the wall; maybe not the best to go through the wall but I have ploughed ahead. I got a great deal on the wall kit; $130.00; Menards current price is $291.09 and I made sure to check the model number against Menard's listing. I went ahead purchasing the wall kit because of the good deal; money saved on the chimney goes to the hearth and wall, and I can better know placing the chimney.
Kimberly, depends on your black stove pipe, pipe that goes from top of stove to the thru wall thimble, the how far from combustibles, changes with single wall versus double wall. in short you want as much of a straight shot up before going to the wall as you can get you won't need much, Most double wall is at most 12 inches from combustible or in your case ceiling. check on that even if you get some that says 6 inches I think a foot below ceiling is good. I wish I had found this place, and asked as many questions as you! would take less of remodel now! oh check the nc13, manual they may have a minimum before angle also. had 4 inches of snow this morning! we want pics of wood stacks too
According to the NC14 manual; The black connector pipe should be 24 gauge steel and a minimum of thirteen inches (13.0”) from a combustible wall and eighteen inches (18.0”) from ceiling. So if I keep the top of the stove pipe at least 18 or greater from the ceiling then I will be OK; but also keep in mind that I want the rise from the stove before going into the thimble as great as possible; is this correct?
yes you are correct, I am assuming that is a minimum, the 24 gauge, that would be a single wall pipe, if you want closer clearances you could go to a double wall pipe for a little more money. I would recommend this as my thru wall faceplate is about two feet wide and I cannot do the math on how a 6 inch pipe goes thru middle of 2 feet with 13 inch clearance both sides. one more recommendation call your insurance company. see what their regulations are. most just say to manufacturer requirements and then you have use a single wall pipe going thru 2 foot thimble and they will say not to code. the double wall pipe will allow closer to ceiling having more straight up from top of stove will help with draft. better to have too much draft and a damper to lower it than not have enough. Ohh the stove has the rear heat shield and blower so it can go closer to wall. I am assuming you will need less than 8 feet of double wall and 1 or 2 angles. 4 feet up off stove to angle 3 feet to wall. yes the from angle to thimble need to rise half inch per foot per backwoods savage, who I would trust more than an engineer
A 1/4"-1/2" rise per foot in your horizontal is necessary. I agree with Canadian border VT above on the double wall inside. If using single wall 18" is the min to the ceiling and most double wall pipes will reduce that to 6". Which gives you 12" more of vertical right off the stove (helps draft). Single wall will keep the install cost cheaper, but double wall will reap more benefits for a short run of Class A outside by keeping the flue gases warm (keeping them hot all the way to the top will make your flue nice and happy!) As well as the added 12" of vertical inside, rather than outside in the Class A. I only clean my flue once a year now (burn good wood and with good technique) and could probably go 2 years or so. Double wall off the stove and then triple wall Class A outside.
X2 I'm a fan of Single wall for straight up install ,but in this case the benefits of double wall out weigh the cost
While researching stove pipe I came across "telescoping stove pipe". How does this work? I will think it would leak smoke into the house.
AKA slip joint. Its an adjustable length section of pipe. Necessary for a top vent, straight up pipe install to make the connection. If the pipe is short enough to fit between the stove and the ceiling, it has to get longer (telescope) to make the connection. When venting through the wall, it may not be necessary if you cut the pipe to length, then install. Some one that has done a through the wall needs to confirm this. Slip joints do not leak. The two pieces overlap by several inches.
A wood stove flue is a negative pressure vent. If you poke a hole in the pipe, air will be sucked in. As opposed to smoke coming out. Single wall has a sloppy fit at the joints, and is never sealed. You will need a telescoping piece to make the right height, unless you just go up 2' or 3' (if you have the clearance to go 3') and then 90° and out? A pellet stove has a positive pressure vent. That is why every joint in the pipe has a gasket and needs sealed 100%.