Stove top or stove pipe temps?

Slip of my fingerI guess I meant 220-240. I should proof read more!

Stove top is at 500F right now and no smoke can be seen coming out my chimney

 

A little low for my comfort but much higher then 250 internal that was being discussed.

 

I dont think a lot of people are going to agree with you on that, Red Oak is slow to season by many peoples reports, not sure about sugar maple and birch.
I know for a fact green Oak or Mulberry plus many others I am not familiar with will not season in one year, I can get by with Ash doing that. Dead barkless Elm is ready to go at time of cut in many cases.

 

i don’t burn oak. Been burning sugar maple and yellow birch after one season of drying for 40 years, no issues yet. Maybe the way I wrote that was unclear. I meant a season of drying with maple and birch has always been fine

 

It would be interesting for others familiar with Sugar Maple to weigh in.
Cant argue with results.

 

"Hard Maples may take two years to get nice and seasoned, while Red or Silver will easily be seasoned in a year."
That was my impression but never had the pleasure of cutting and burning any.

 

sugar maple is what I burn. We have red maple but the btu's aren’t as high. A lot depends on how small your split your wood and how you stack it (ie wood shed, wood shed style) RH where you live, etc etc. For me it does work though. 2 years is great also, just seems to burn quicker due to lower moisture content

 

The lower moisture content gives you more heat, water does not burn.

 

Works fine in my stove (Drolet 1400i)...and the fire is far from smoldering...heck, my computer controlled Kuuma furnace almost never goes over 400* internal pipe temp (measured ~10-12" outside the pipe/stove connection)...and even that temp is only right after loading, when its is still building the fire/firebox temp back up...once in "cruise" mode, 275-350* is the normal internal temp (measure by thermocouple in the pipe)...and no creosote issues at all.

 

I would want to give it at least 2 years, but agree that it could be ready to go in a year if it was split small, and stacked in a sunny/breezy spot...even then it may not burn as optimally as it could.

 

I agree, but a little moisture gives you a longer burn time was all I was saying. I find if the mc gets too low it does burn hot, yes, but too fast for my liking.

 

wood shed with wooden sides with 8-10” spaced vertical boards for the sides. 12’ section on sliding door hinges, left open all summer. Seems to work. If I had to store 2 years worth of firewood I’d need a big woodshed.

 

First off. Welcome to the wooding madness.

Assuming complete combustion? Check your chimney. If there's no smoke, then there's no assuming.

 

Thanks.
That was my opinion as well. No smoke out my chimney at high 500’s at stove top

 

I do believe it's time for a looksie at your woodshed Sounds like a nice setup.

 

I dont have any smoke at a lower temp then 500 but it depends on my stack temp, the only time I have any smoke is a little on startup
The driest my wood gets here in Iowa is around 15 percent no matter how old it is, have no problem with the wood burning up too quickly, nice dry wood makes it easy to adjust the fire.

 

Just so I am not misunderstood his flue temps are close to what I consider "safe", two different discussions going on in this thread.

 

I have a Drolet also, not sure how you can get away with those low of flue temps, I know my stove top temp would be very low with those temps, do you know what the surface temp is with a internal temp of 200 to 250?
My PE had crazy flue temps so I took it out, my pre EPA Nashua had the same flue temps and stove top temps as my Drolet, still using it in the shop.

 

Well, I can recall exactly, as I don't run the Drolet that much these days, our crazy schedule has me letting the oil furnace do the work in the warmer part of the SS, when its too warm to keep babying the Kuuma along on small loads, and when I do run the Drolet, I can't say that I have checked anything other than STT lately, due to time, and the fact that my (fireplace) blockoff plate covers almost all of the stove pipe (well, actually direct connect chimney liner)

250*, certainly gonna have problems at 200*...and I guess I could check on the Kuuma's pipe when its on cruise and running in the 275* range...I know I tried laying my hand on the pipe one time...and you could, it was still kinda hot-ish, so couldn't leave it there long, but you could do more than quickly slap it, like actually lay your hand on it for a bit. But this is also on the worlds cleanest burning computer controlled forced air wood furnace, whole different animal from a basic wood stove!
(the owner/inventor of Lamppa MFG (Daryl Lamppa) has one of these Kuuma furnaces as the main source of heat for his large-ish house in Northern Minnesota, for the last 30 years, and claims to have never cleaned his chimney since the Kuuma has been there...inspects every year, but no need to clean. I believe him, he is a no nonsense "results talk and BS walks" kind of guy)

 

For some reason flue temps fascinate me, I guess its because I had so much trouble with my PE, the 350 mentioned in the first post (surface) is too high for most stoves. Sounds like some stoves dont conform to the guide lines that are everywhere. The new stoves are more efficient but did not think it effected the flue temps to that extent. A while back a person with a Blaze King commented on his low flue temps caused creosote build up, he liked his stove a lot but was the first person to make that comment that I am aware of.