Stove For a New Build

"has anyone put a smaller stove just for a bit of extra basement heat" ... yes. Our place is a basic 26x44 ranch, with a well insulated blown-in attic space. (Just had that done 4 years ago... no more ice dams at the eaves now.). I don't burn much anymore, just when it gets really cold here. My honey's sinus infections had become a real issue, from the wood fires. We have a Lopi Liberty in the full basement, with plenty of wood ready to go. The hwbb boiler is beside it, and the basement holds at about 55 degrees all winter, without the woodstove. We're coming into a cold snap of below zero temps for the week ahead. The floor upstairs likes a little help when it's this cold. I'll start a fire early tomorrow AM to get the basement up over 75 quickly, and circulate the air with a small fan. No air flows upstairs. Works well. All the comments about going strong with insulation, building a new home, sure is worth every dime imo. Good luck with your home MeanJoe.

 

And here's my point about framers LOL

16" oc isnt needed because they're stronger all you're doing is literally wasting money and lumber not to mention now you have as much thermal bridging as 2x4 framing.

 

MeanJoe really read up on aging in place or forever homes
Higher electric outlets, so not bending over to plug in light.. thread on it here somewhere

 

I don't know where you got your info from, but the r-value of 6" of pine (softwood) is much greater than 1.

R-Value Range
Wood’s R-value varies depending on its type, with wood ranges between 1.41 per inch for softwoods and 0.71 per inch for hardwoods:

• Softwoods: R-value of 1.41 per inch (2.54 cm)

So, 1.41 multiplied by 5 1/2" is close to 8

Insulation Value of Wood: Wood's Hidden Power

 

With 2 x 6 walls, wouldn't the heat transfer be much slower than 2 x 4 walls? Even taking into account thermal bridging?

 

When I wired the garage I had built for me, I installed the outlets at 4' height with reservations....

Didn't regret it one bit!

The only outlet place at "traditional" height was behind the wood stove so I could plug it's fan into it!

 

You are correct .. thanks for fixing

I was trying to say half (1/2) of insulated wall around it

 

Iirc if both are spaced the same its basically even. If 2x4 16"oc R13 with no exterior insulation and 2x6 24"oc R19 its approx 25% less.

 

All the framing and r value talk aside from being on both ends before you sign a contract have a lawyer go over it. Anything you want in the house and I mean anything get it in the contract because its your main line of defense if things go south. Outlets in certain places, body sprayer's in the shower, etc. Most residential construction quality is meh at best no matter what the builder says. Its just the nature of the beast and part of why I got out. Alot of stuff not done right or cover ups and let's hope the inspector doesn't catch it mentality. Id reccomend an independent inspector but many builders don't like this and will tell you how they have their own in-house inspector blah blah blah. I had something else but its slipping my mind at the moment. As far as design all I'll say is I highly reccomend a bigger garage than you think you'll need. If only doing a 2 car make it an extra 8-10 feet deep. Its added storage for now but could also be converted into additional living space later if needed.

 

Great ideas on aging in place, we will absolutely be making sure we can age here. Main floor laundry is the big one. I see a lot of houses without it. 36” doors and I liked the idea of higher electric outlets just in case. We have a rough layout and the garage will be 24 wide and 32 deep. Not as big as I like but we can’t have it all! Back to the stove, I’m almost thinking a BK Princess upstairs and still not sure on downstairs. Maybe just a cheap plate steel stove since it won’t be the main heater.

Anyone ever put a natural gas furnace in a garage? Not sure if that’s possible but the current house furnace is only 8 years old…

 

Maybe consider one of the hanging heaters for the garage?

Mr. Heater® 80,000 BTU Big Maxx Natural Gas Forced Air Garage Heater at Menards®

 

That’s an easy alternative as well. I don’t care how the heat shows up, just want heat in the garage. I always try to use what we have first before buying new. A window A/C unit for the summer will show up as well. Other idea is a mini split. I don’t like working when I feel like I’m in a swamp.

 

Hey MeanJoe Nat Gas? Hydronic or hot air?
If we’re getting older why not keep it as back up?

 

Central heat/ac?
If you want central ac then your gonna need ductwork, so may as well have central heat too.
It's a lot easier/cheap to plan for/install ducts from new than to retrofit.
Also, my 2 cents, go 2x6 framing, it makes for a much better house...many 2x4 walls you can push on the middle of the wall and make it bounce!
Some of the cheap builder grade homes you can cut your way in with a knife...vinyl siding over house wrap, insulation, then drywall! If there is plywood on the walls it's just in the corners to stiffen things up side to side!
One more note, if going with spray foam insulation, look into Airkrete, lots of advantages over foam and no downside! Other than it cost a little more...and some areas might not have an installer close by...they will travel though.
Home | Airkrete - All Green Light Weight Cement Insulation!

 

^^^ write these down

add zero entry showers and handicap accessible bathrooms and access.
A hip or knee repair; it will pay you back in spades

 

We will definitely have nat gas furnace and central air with ductwork. I just hate getting the gas bill. That’s why I “save money” burning firewood. I hope we have a lot of years left before we have to consider ourselves aging but you never know. It’s always cheaper to build it right the first time than have to do it again in 25 years. I’ve never seen a house not have OSB but I believe it! Cheapen it all up and throw it away later. At least the house we might replace lasted 130 years. Just too much deferred maintenance to repair on top of needing updates.

 

No osb means no stiffness. I think that's against code?

I would do alternating 2*4 studs in 2*6 walls. One stud on the outside covered by insulation on the inside. Next stud on the inside with insulation on the outside. No thermal bridging and still cheaper 2*4s.

Also,.my triple pane xenon plus reflective coating were less than $800 each. Not $2000 at all.
Pay attention also to air leak ratings of windows

 

Here it is to code to use 2x4, 24” OC framing, they achieve “stiffness” by metal straps 45° angled from top to bottom plates in corners..
Please pass along your source for Triple panes

 

Yup, straps, or OSB in the corners only, either way will pass inspection

 

So everyone understands, it’s been a few years, I am not against high energy efficient windows. BUT in the classes I took the most efficient house is one without windows and doors.. it’s just real hard to get into
Here’s chart on most efficient windows

most can’t buy a window over an R7, and 3.5” of fiberglass insulation is usually R11-13.

When building everything is a cost to performance decision. What do owners believe have value to them, they are paying for it.

My point is it’s way easier to spend money on drainage and insulation below grade and behind walls now! I will say it again, it is my opinion that cabinets, floor covering, countertops and Windows and doors are easiest upgrades.