Stihl MS 261 w/ 20” a “do all”?

My first 261 was the "carb" version. It was supposed to be the C but i kept it as it was a killer deal from ebay. I later got a 261c and sold the other. Not being good at carb adjustment and chain saw mechanics in general im an Mtronic guy myself. Own six of the Mtronic saws.

 

They both have a purpose and I run a 25” on my 500i plus it’s the wrap version so a little heavier in general. And the 400 is loud stock

 

My 400 came with a full wrap (the guy i bought it from tricked it out) My only full wrap saw.

 

Go stock up on the orange fuel filters and change once a year, could buy a green solenoid to have around since that the universal one just in case you run into an issue the recalibrate doesn’t fix.

 

So he bought the 250$ 362 wrap kit

 

Here's the thread. Got the saw with bling for $850 and it looked BARELY used.
Third Times the Charm

 

Same setup on mine. Full wrap and 25 inch.
No complaints here!

 

i run two 550’s as my standard fare. One 20” .325 the other converted to 18” 3/8”. Both would be 18” if they had that bar in stock the day I bought it.
Here’s what I’ve found. Stock 550xp with stock .325 Oregon/Husky semi round safety chain,,,,,not that good. Lightening fast in the cut, too fast even. The standard Oregon chain has a very narrow kerf in conjunction with the bar thickness. Any twist of the log is a rapid pinch. Also it seems the little 550 speedster just can’t clear chips fast enough with a narrow kerf chain. I was constantly binding the chain, clogging it with chips under the bar and in the nose.
Oregon full chisel was a little better, little wider kerf. Stihl full chisel is wider yet. I only buy Stihl “bastard” chains for the Husky now.

As for .325 vs 3/8”. Not a ton of noticeable difference. There is some. The 3/8” cuts a little slower. But at the same time it also has much less trouble with binding on moving wood. The kerf is just so much wider than the bar it’s not easily affected. This in turn makes my life easier. I’ll take easier over a split second faster.
IMO the 550 should come with 3/8” and 16-18” bar.

 

I run the Stihl RS on anything I can. Tried many different brands over the years and always seem to fall back to the RS series.
The stock Husky got maybe 1/2 dozen cuts and was swapped for the Stihl chain. Like comparing apples to oranges.

 

My 462R with full wrap came also with a Straight Shot (I think that's the name) exhaust gizmo, competitor to Barkbox

You might have explained why I complain about how I view my Husqvarna battery saw, which is supposed to be "pro level." I like the saw, yes, very handy, cuts good. But I often have this feeling that it is "binding" in the cut. I've not yet seen anyone else complain about it and it's so noticeable to me, that is surprising. The bar and chain for this saw is a narrow kerf design and the scoop was that they were designed for a battery saw, to allow it to cut "better." It almost feels to me like the bar is not rigid enough. I haven't yet figured out if it is any certain type of wood.

 

Maybe their thought process was that few would bury it in wood??? Just used for limbing and smalls.
I have a habit of twisting the saw when i finish the cut to separate the round. I did bend a short bar on my 201 that way!

 

I need to buck with it again and see if it's only when it's buried or also when bucking.

 

Chainsaw bar & pry bar both bars I guess

 

My guess always was from a desk the thinner chain will perform better as it has less wood to remove. That may be true if the wood is supported and allowed to free fall. How many people go through the trouble of picking up wood and placing it on a bench. Some do, I don’t. Cut it where it lays. Which means all sorts of radial forces are on that moving stick.

 

I was thinking of our friends a bit north and east of you Brad, but you may be right.