Stihl 034 Super AV EQ

My desk inside is a mess if that counts hahahaha.

 

That means you are A-OK

 

Started taking stuff apart. Can anyone tell me what this little cup washer thing is for? I had loosened the screws for the pull rope cover and and when I flipped the saw over this fell out. No idea where it goes.

 

The little cup goes in the brake handle in the upper left recoil bolt location

 

Thank you very much.

I think the piston is scored. Again, this is my first time EVER opening up a cylinder and looking at a piston but based on what I've seen, it don't look too good.

I made a video of it.



I cleaned up everything pretty good.



This picture right here is troubling. Why is it that the 2 halves of the saw don't look like they match each other??? It almost looks like a 034 regular on the clutch side and an 034 super on the flywheel side. What the heck??

(I had peeled off the gasket)

 

The cases are all like that, something to do with the casting process I’ve been told. Nothing to worry about.

In the video you mentioned splitting it. Yes, remove the white plastic plugs and remove the screws inside them to get rid of the handle. Also, above the upper left case screw and also on the lower right by the bucking spike, there are locating pins that should be tapped in so they don’t hang up the splitting process

 

Thanks. Do I need a new piston and cylinder though? It looks a bit roughed up to me.

 

New (Meteor… if you want to save some cash) 48mm piston for sure. That cylinder may clean up just fine.

 

You can sand the cylinder to remove any aluminum transfer. There are vids on YouTube but I recommend trying it by hand before going right to a mandrel.
That’s the seal, yes. It’s shot as you know.
As mentioned above, you have to remove the tank. Remove all case screws and tap the locating pins back before trying to split the case (as Huskihl said). I use a Husky case splitter but you can fashion one or use heat. I’m not a fan of the heat method since it usually leaves the bearings on the crank and it’s not easy to see if a bearing pocket is worn (Husky style splitter pushes the crank through the bearings unless the pockets are really wallowed).

 

The piston and rings should be replaced. Get a 48MM Meteor for an 036. Sand off the transfer inside the cylinder until you don’t see any black aluminum lines

 

The impulse is just 102mm of Stihl’s conventional fuel line. Do not use Tygon.

 

Here’s a piston from a reputable source

Meteor Stihl 034 Super, 036, MS360 piston kit 48mm

Other places I’ve used are Wolf Creek saw shop and chainsaw conservation components (seller dssjms) on eBay

 

https://youtu.be/7KQ-T91aCCE

I never noticed that mismatch at the case. Went back and checked any 064 file. There it is.

 

Thanks for all the responses and links. Greatly appreciated. I will order the Meteor. OEM is double the price. Yikes.

On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being worst, how bad is the aluminum scoring on my cylinder? What grit should I use? 120? 180? 240?

I bought some stuff from dssjms on ebay already as a matter of fact.

Will this Farmertec Crank Puller/Installer tool work on the 034? It lists the 026/036......so it should work on the 034 right?

Holzfforma® Crank Splitter Mounting Tool For Stihl MS200T 026 036 038 044 046 064 065 066 MS260 MS360 MS361 MS380 MS381 MS440 MS441 MS460 MS461 MS640 MS650 MS660 Chainsaw OEM #5910 007 2222

 

Yes

That’s about a 2.
Any of the grits you mentioned will work

 

Thanks.

 

I don't see a version of the Farmertec tool for the flywheel side. But can't you just tighten down that 13mm nut to pull the flywheel onto the crankshaft? Also I just did the wiggle test again with everything off.......and nothing seemed to move at all on either side - clutch or flywheel. Confused. The seal on the clutch side does look wonky though and damaged. Either way I'm going to replace the bearings but I just though it was weird not to see anything move now for some reason. The reason I checked was to see if the flywheel side moved....which it did not.....But I'll take pics of the bearings once I split it.

There was a heck of a lot of debris in the crankcase.....I think (and hope) from me cleaning around the area. I covered up the opening for the crank case but maybe I didn't cover it up well enough. When I open it up I will clean it up. It has to be pristine, correct?

 

Yes, you’ll be able to clean everything really well when it’s apart.
The Husky style splitter (C-clamp) will push the crank through the bearings on both sides. It typically fits 1125 series saws perfectly. Get the jaws over the crank lobes and take your time.

 

That splitter you linked will work, but I prefer the C style. (Flywheel side being one of the reasons).

 

Thats called core shift in 2 smoker lingo. At least in larger displacement 2 strokes. Likely the same for your saw. Normal. The machined/mating surfaces should all be true.