Stihl 034 Super AV EQ

Thanks for all the tips. I checked the needle bearing and it looked good. Crank seemed solid, no wiggle. Didn't check impulse line but I will. I was going to take out the exhaust spark arrestor and put it to a flame and clean it up . That'll be a good time to inspect the piston.

I was having a hard time taking out the chain brake but I'll give it another go when I get the parts in.

I saw a video of a guy using a heat gun very gently on the stiff fuel line. I do have an extra fuel line but I'd like to save that for the fuel tank. I did order 2 sets of the oiler kit. I like to have spares just in case I screw something up and/or come across another situation where I need it.

I'm jealous of your bench. I don't have a bench and am working on top of my 44 gallon brute garbage cans at the moment!!! Once this crazy rain stops I'll build myself something to work on inside the garage. I only have studs on one side wall and the back wall so I don't have a lot of room. I need to move my 12 wheels and tires out of the garage or finally build some stairs and make the attic of the garage accessible for storage.

 

Sounds good. The molded fuel line is exclusively for the tank-carb connection. The fuel line that can be used for both impulse and oil line is Stihl’s conventional straight line. Your dealer may have 1m sections or rolls of it.

Good to hear about the other checks. The exhaust screen rarely plugs on this series. The other thing to keep an eye on is any oil weeping through the case gasket under the muffler.

 

Chain brake is spring off the stud in the case, remove brake band, remove e-clip holding mechanism lever for brake handle, pull out brake handle from stud in the case.
Parts of the brake system can stay on for the oiler job. The clutch has to come off, obviously. I use an impact or rope in the plug hole as a piston stop.
Have fun!

 

bought mine from a guy i know who flips OPE mostly chainsaws. He got it cheap and did a wholesale rubber replacement. Shows it to me and says he is keeping it. Famous last words. He always needs money and the six months i figured before he'd sell it turned into a month. Traded him a good working 024 (he had fixed for me) and $200 cash. Got the saw with new 18" B&C plus a used 25" bar with used skip chain. I think i did good. The saw tran mint through two tanks of gas. Went to use next time and it died. Same guy looks at it and determines crank seals. Had buzz-saw replace them and no go. Turns out clogged carb as he ran it through an ultrasonic cleaner and it worked fine after. Ran a tank full though it couple Sundays ago and worked good for the most part. I have a 361 (later version of the 036) and like that saw as well.
With this saw up and running id say you have a perfect three saw plan. The 036 can take a 25" bar if needed. Mine normally has an 18" even though ive ran 20 & 22" bars.

 

034/036/360 can be finicky to tune. Sometimes they act up despite perfect pressure/vac tests, etc. I sometimes find problems with tank vents and linkages. Other times I blame the carb or even the ignition…but don’t change anything unless they go lean or die.
They’re such a damm good firewood saw; I’m willing to overlook their shortcomings.

 

Yep, don't sell it, way to good of a saw! As soon as I get mine from Screwloose I'll have three!

 

Hopefully the warden will release me tomorrow so I can pick them up.

 

Why do have 3? Different bar length and/or chain? I don't see a 034 listed in your sig!!

 

Oh young glasshoppah, have much to learn you do...

 

Your 034 super is the same saw as on 036. I find them to be one of the most versatile all around saws. Good power to weight & pretty reliable. Kind of a do it all saw. If you're making firewood you can't beat them.

 

Tell me something I don't know.

I was noodling some really large 30" diameter x 20" tall white oak with a ton of burls in it today with the 028 and was thinking "Man, I probably could use that 61.5cc engine right about now". Got the job done and had just sharpened the chain.....but definitely could have used a bit more juice.

 

Juice is good for the body!!
Get yourself more juice, doctors orders.

 

After I fix 'er up I'll have plenty of juice I hope!!

 

Did a few simple ones yesterday.

Fuel tank vent, spikes, chain catch, and air filter.

 

Looks good. Don’t forget to get that choke rod behind the air filter when you tighten things down.

 

Oh...it won't let itself be forgotten...for long.

 

Took the clutch off no problem with the Stihl piston stop tool. The oiler had 1 m4x12 screw missing....which is probably why the plastic worm gear got messed up and had shavings all over the place.

I spun it manually and it would catch but it seemed off to me. The oil pump housing looks pretty beat up as well. I think I'm going to replace that too.

Ripped the oil filter line when I tried pulling it out instead of pushing it into the tank. The filter looks good but I need a new hose so will order that as well. Will keep the old filter as a spare.

Fixed the choke lever. Realized that as soon as I snapped the pic.

 

The tip of the plastic worm gear that sits in the notch on the drum was also noticeably worn down. Another clue that the oil pump wasn't working properly. More waiting for parts to arrive. I ended up buying a cheap $16 oil pump kit on eBay - kind of hard to argue since an oem worm gear was the same price as this entire kit. Kit includes an oil pump, oil filter, oil hose, fuel line, fuel filter, 2 bumper stops that I don't know what it is for, and the worm gear. I have the oiler hose kit with the spring and brass insert already.

 

Aftermarket pumps can be ok for this series. Aftermarket worm gears are not good, unfortunately.
AM oil hoses - fuel lines are no good. Fuel filter is no good, typically. The oil line may split at the filter but it’s worth a shot. Bumper stops may be for 034 cases that don’t use a bar plate or the clutch covers. They’re nice to have around.
Make sure you have the oiler bushing and washer installed when you reassemble. The pump is probably fine, by the way. The screw vibrating out may have caused the damage. No crank wiggle, right?

 

I have 2 of the OEM oil hose kits.

Fuel line is a just in case backup.

I took a short video of the crank shaft. It moves a tiny bit but only if I put a decent amount of pressure. Should it not move at all?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JuZLXf2FqLabhrrJ7